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was the amps in the port?? thats gonna cause turbulance in the port and lose ur original tuning fq and output of the subs.

no. i built a flase floor with a cover. the box downfires off of that.

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meade916

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i used my step dad's O-scope. i clip at 32 my cousin said that was probably where i would be and he was right.

the internal amp has been broken for awhile. i am using my amps for all sound.

someone told me though that if you turn the volume up and it does not get louder that that is where you clip.

lol dude....why would you keep turning the volume up and it doesn't get any louder? that should tell you something if you use a little common sense. sounds like its pretty loud though.

i was thinking leave the 12 sitting in the box in the hole and duck tape from the bottom of the sub to the bottom of the baffle so the sub doesnt free air. would that work?

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lol dude....why would you keep turning the volume up and it doesn't get any louder? that should tell you something if you use a little common sense. sounds like its pretty loud though.

that is a way someone told me a system is clipping. i would never do this. i normally have it on 27 but i can go to 32 safely. when i compete i max out the HU the last 3 seconds if need be because of a major voltage issue. stock ALT and no secondary batteries

----reference's----

meade916

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good stuff highs sound very loud.

thats why i went with this product over that cheap american bass and beyma shit. american bass distorts too much, and beyma has no warrenty. the sad part is i can give them alot more power. they are under powered by about 60 watts or so right now.

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meade916

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Is there a speaker wire/power wire run through your door jamb?

i was hoping no one would notice that. unfortunately yes there is. its the speaker wire for my door pods. there are metal plates that secure the dash support to the side of the truck in my way. the only way to get the wire through the factory loom is to loosen the entire dash support and this set-up in temporary so i didn't bother doing that yet.

----reference's----

meade916

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i was hoping no one would notice that. unfortunately yes there is. its the speaker wire for my door pods. there are metal plates that secure the dash support to the side of the truck in my way. the only way to get the wire through the factory loom is to loosen the entire dash support and this set-up in temporary so i didn't bother doing that yet.

I had to do that same thing except I have to tear the entire dash out of my car and I mean the whole thing....

Vehicle: 1997 S10 Blazer 4dr 4X4

Exterior: Rear End Bagged, Black Grill, Lifted 2"

Amplifiers: Rockford Fosgate T8004 & T10001bd

Batteries: 2 Stinger SPV35, Kinetik HC2400

Electrical: Big 3, DC Power 290amp Alternator w/ MLA at 15.5v

Enclosure: 4.2 ft³ @ 33Hz 84sq.in. of port (20sq.in. per cube)

Headunit: Eclipse CD3200 w/ 80G iPod

Mids/Highs: Rockford T152s (a-pillars), Rockford T162s (doors)

Subwoofers: 1 15" Fi BL Fully Loaded

Wire: All 1/0g Kicker Hyperflex

My YouTube Videos

My Fiberglass A-Pillar Build

My "Seamless" Looking Box Build

My DD1508 T-Line Bandpass Build "Seamless" w/ Acrylic Windows (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Stealth 8" Fiberglass Build (for '05 TrailBlazer)

My Build For A Friend's '08 Cobalt 15" BL Sealed Off From The Trunk

My feedback/references...

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I had to do that same thing except I have to tear the entire dash out of my car and I mean the whole thing....

thats the proper way to do it on my truck. but, after looking at it i figure if someone help me i can just loosed to support bar and try to run the wire through.

----reference's----

meade916

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