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Posted

Okay my brothers car (82 Supra) fried a fusible link last night. Is their a way to override/bypass the link with some thicker wire and a fuse? It says 1.0P on the fuse panel cover for the Link. I want to know if we could use like 8/10G wire to replace the old, fried 12G and fuse the new wire. If so, what fuse rating and is this a safe idea?

Derp.

Posted
Whats the reason the fusible link fried?

We have no clue, last night we was driving and the car shut-off. We checked all the electrical, no problems just a burnt link...

Derp.

Posted

Check all down the wire to see if it grounded out. If you can't get another length of fusible link try some 10-12 ga. wire with a 20 amp fuse or smaller. There is a reason its a fusible link and not a wire with a fuse.

Posted (edited)
Check all down the wire to see if it grounded out. If you can't get another length of fusible link try some 10-12 ga. wire with a 20 amp fuse or smaller. There is a reason its a fusible link and not a wire with a fuse.

Well I found this, so I doubt their is a specific reason for them. Plus the car is a 1982 model.

Description: The traditional fusible link is a short section of wire that has a smaller diameter than the rest of the circuit. When current flow in the circuit exceeds that of the fusible link, the wire melts and interrupts the circuit. This type of fusible link is becoming quickly obsolete, as many carmakers have opted for newer technologies such as the cartridge style fuse element or maxi fuse. When a fuse link “blows”, it must be replaced.

Purpose: Fusible links act as high-current fuses by protecting their circuits from excessive current draw. The capacity of fusible links is usually 30 amps or more-somewhat higher than that of standard fuses. When a fusible link blows, it means that its current-carrying capacity was exceeded and the heat across the link’s conductor caused the link to melt and open the circuit.

Edited by solo_x18

Derp.

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