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OK... been doin some reading/research and ive come to a brick wall...

Can someone explain to me how running multiple 0guage wires is supposed to work(pics would be helpful if available... )

i know that you do one 0 guage wire from the alt to the batt in the front... but if you want to do two runs or more i have no idea as to how the hell that works...

the setup is gonna have 3 batts in total... one under the hood and two in the back if that helps

i know the max amperage for 0 guage is around 325a but the amps that im considering can pull upwards of 400a-500a.

someone please explain. :help:

for shizzle :wacko:

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OK... been doin some reading/research and ive come to a brick wall...

Can someone explain to me how running multiple 0guage wires is supposed to work(pics would be helpful if available... )

i know that you do one 0 guage wire from the alt to the batt in the front... but if you want to do two runs or more i have no idea as to how the hell that works...

the setup is gonna have 3 batts in total... one under the hood and two in the back if that helps

i know the max amperage for 0 guage is around 325a but the amps that im considering can pull upwards of 400a-500a.

someone please explain. :help:

for shizzle :wacko:

I was wondering the same thing with multiple 0 gauge runs. I thought you just needed a single charge wire from the front to the back for the batts. Or atleast thats what I was told

Edited by Justin

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Guest Just_Rob
I was wondering the same thing with multiple 0 gauge runs. I thought you just needed a single charge wire from the front to the back for the batts. Or atleast thats what I was told

Using multiple runs of 0GA or 1/0 wire minimizes voltage loss running large amounts of current over long distances... You can do the same thing running 1 run of 4/0 cable, because 4/0 cable has exactly the same amount of carrying capacity as 2 parallel runs of 1/0 and it usually ends up being cheaper running a single 4/0 cable... High amounts of current dont flow well at low voltages (12v-14v) so to make sure all the current (amperage) gets to its destination and maintaining voltage while getting there you need to have plenty of carrying capacity, thus the need to run multiple large cables..

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You can put a Knukonceptz ( or the like ) battery terminal that has three 1/0 outs allowing for multiple runs. I would do a run of 1/0 from the alt to one of the ports on the terminal, then two runs from the terminal of front battery to the rear batts. If you get a battery terminal with a ring style hook up, you can run virtually as many cables that will fit if needed.

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You can put a Knukonceptz ( or the like ) battery terminal that has three 1/0 outs allowing for multiple runs. I would do a run of 1/0 from the alt to one of the ports on the terminal, then two runs from the terminal of front battery to the rear batts. If you get a battery terminal with a ring style hook up, you can run virtually as many cables that will fit if needed.

thats what i was confused on... the alt to the first batt, but thanks for clearing that up...

so once you have the two runs of 0guage done on the batts... it is still just one 0 guage wire directly to the amp right??? but if the amp can pull over 325 amps how is one 0 guage wire gonna work with that application?

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thats what i was confused on... the alt to the first batt, but thanks for clearing that up...

so once you have the two runs of 0guage done on the batts... it is still just one 0 guage wire directly to the amp right??? but if the amp can pull over 325 amps how is one 0 guage wire gonna work with that application?

The amp would have revisions for more power input if it needed it from the factory. You're actually over thinking it a bit, but that's good, you're being inquisitive about the installation.

On the rear battery, if you have a short enough run of 1/0 from the batt to the amp, the cable will be completely capable of handling the current load you will induce through it. Since music will be played, you wont come close to the fuse capacity anyway. Full power on tones is another story.

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They'll be okay by charging off the alt, but you should try and maintaince charge them once every two weeks or so to keep them healthy. I have yet to put mine on a charger and it still is holding a charge beautifully. It doesn't get much better than Powermaster.

or get an mla module/ switchable that is

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Hope u stay away from the MTX :bad:

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The amp would have revisions for more power input if it needed it from the factory. You're actually over thinking it a bit, but that's good, you're being inquisitive about the installation.

On the rear battery, if you have a short enough run of 1/0 from the batt to the amp, the cable will be completely capable of handling the current load you will induce through it. Since music will be played, you wont come close to the fuse capacity anyway. Full power on tones is another story.

cool...i forgot about the fact that i wont actually pull what the fuse says otherwise the fuse would be no good... any way i have yet another question...

we all know that there are amps out there that dont come with onboard fuses... (such as the american bass vfl amps)... but they are rated to do different outputs and different voltages... how are you supposed to determine how big the fuse should be in order to protedt the amp? :drinks:

or get an mla module/ switchable that is

i planned on getting one but i still have to do some more research to find out EXACTLY what it does. :unknw:

Hope u stay away from the MTX :bad:

ok whats wrong with mtx :dry:

for shizzle :wacko:

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