What Happened ?

[Guest Fi-Beat-Down]

Ok, well heres my question. its nothing major but i just don't know.

ok i have a txxapb 10b audiopipe sub from my old set up.

ill lay it out the way it went down...

ok so i have a bass knob but it was acting up and when i wanted to turn it up it would give me uneven bass like it would go from where it should be based on where the knob was set at, or just cut off in a way to where i was not even using a bass knob... then it sometimes it would pound to hard higher levels,.. then what the knob did when it was working good,..

now idk if its the knob cause the sub does not work now,. so yeah,

also bu looking at the woofer i see nothing wrong with it, and the cone feels good in moves well no rough inner feeling in my hand..

what was the reason you folks thank the sub does not work,... and why did it just stop...

could my bass knob having the issues as stated caused the sub to go bad, feeding it wild levels ... idk,..

any info would help just for the point of knowing.. at the same time i may need a bass knob now..

[audiofanaticz]

umm disconnect the bass knob (at the amp), and make sure your amp is turned on, and not in protect.

that be the first thing id try.

It could be wore out, or there maybe a bad wire for it.

If it still dont work, next Id check your speaker.

Id find a speaker you have laying around (dont matter what size or anything, it could be a computer or home stereo speaker) and hook that up to the amp, if your certain the test speaker works, and you hear nothing from it when you hook it to the amp you know something is wrong with your amp. But just make sure you have it on a low volume so you dont go and blow your test speaker

If your amp isnt putting out sound, and is not in protect, next I think I would check my rca cords from the headunit to the amp, make sure something didnt happen to them and they are no faulty.

You can also check on your headunit to make sure subwoofer is turned on and up, maybe some how you where messing with it, and changed it or forgot you changed it, if its off you will have no bumps, and you may think your bass knob faulted out fully while it actually still works half-assed lol

[Guest Fi-Beat-Down]

umm disconnect the bass knob (at the amp), and make sure your amp is turned on, and not in protect.

that be the first thing id try.

It could be wore out, or there maybe a bad wire for it.

If it still dont work, next Id check your speaker.

Id find a speaker you have laying around (dont matter what size or anything, it could be a computer or home stereo speaker) and hook that up to the amp, if your certain the test speaker works, and you hear nothing from it when you hook it to the amp you know something is wrong with your amp. But just make sure you have it on a low volume so you dont go and blow your test speaker

If your amp isnt putting out sound, and is not in protect, next I think I would check my rca cords from the headunit to the amp, make sure something didnt happen to them and they are no faulty.

You can also check on your headunit to make sure subwoofer is turned on and up, maybe some how you where messing with it, and changed it or forgot you changed it, if its off you will have no bumps, and you may think your bass knob faulted out fully while it actually still works half-assed lol

thanks a lot, honesty that's some very helpful steps we forget to think about when shit breaks down,..

well i did go try to un plug the bass knob, and i have some subs in my garage i just tried them out and they worked great, lol i haven't used these old ones in yrs, and it took all of 20 seconds for them to break i gave them a good ass kicking,..

so heres what is comes done to. the sub i guess,.. how can a sub just stop yet, there's nothing visually wrong ..

ps, if the knob is bad regardless what would be a good quality one for my bxi1606 hifoincs amp i cant find the oem one at all,

thanks again

[audiofanaticz]

I seen 2 bass knobs on ebay, but they are the dcr-1 model. Im not sure if they would work with a 2006 bxi-1606.

Your best bet would be to contact maxxsonics/hifonics and ask them if they have one you can buy directly from them, or ask them if the dcr-1 model is compatible with your amp.

They maybe the same knobs, just different colors, because I think those amps where black, and have a black bass knob.

Heres one of the ebay auctions.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Hifonics-Bass-Amp-Ampl...p3286.m20.l1116

Heres some contact info:

Maxxsonics 847-540-7700

Maxxsonics tech support [email protected]

Maxxsonics customer service [email protected]

[Guest Fi-Beat-Down]

I seen 2 bass knobs on ebay, but they are the dcr-1 model. Im not sure if they would work with a 2006 bxi-1606.

Your best bet would be to contact maxxsonics/hifonics and ask them if they have one you can buy directly from them, or ask them if the dcr-1 model is compatible with your amp.

They maybe the same knobs, just different colors, because I think those amps where black, and have a black bass knob.

Heres one of the ebay auctions.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Hifonics-Bass-Amp-Ampl...p3286.m20.l1116

Heres some contact info:

Maxxsonics 847-540-7700

Maxxsonics tech support [email protected]

Maxxsonics customer service [email protected]

thanks man that's perfect, well i will give them a call for sure.. yeah i seen the same to knobs on ebay i emailed them both and there not for me, but good looking out. for you to take the time and look and get some info for me is awesome,..

im trying to get a knob again, my new bl will be here later today for sure,.

hey your a smart guy do you know if and idk if its legit but do i need to break in the sub or what ?

thanks again..

[audiofanaticz]

It depends on the company, I think theres a few at the shop that break every sub in they build, I remember reading it, but dont remember who it was (either Sundown Audio, ***, or DC Audio).

most cheaper subs dont need much if any break-in time because they have weaker spiders, making the sub not to firm/stiff when you push on the cone.

When you get into more pricey subs that are using multi layer spiders the speakers cone tends to be a lot stiffer.

Like DC Audio lvl 4, lvl4XL, lvl 5 - Fi btl, bl - DD 3500, 9500, AA mayham, havocs - mtx 9500, just to name a few.

Once the spiders get worked in a bit, the cone is a little less firm, and then they may play a little bit louder.

Id just turn the sub gain down for a few days to give the speaker a chance to loosen up a bit before you toss lots of power to it.

[Guest Fi-Beat-Down]

It depends on the company, I think theres a few at the shop that break every sub in they build, I remember reading it, but dont remember who it was (either Sundown Audio, ***, or DC Audio).

most cheaper subs dont need much if any break-in time because they have weaker spiders, making the sub not to firm/stiff when you push on the cone.

When you get into more pricey subs that are using multi layer spiders the speakers cone tends to be a lot stiffer.

Like DC Audio lvl 4, lvl4XL, lvl 5 - Fi btl, bl - DD 3500, 9500, AA mayham, havocs - mtx 9500, just to name a few.

Once the spiders get worked in a bit, the cone is a little less firm, and then they may play a little bit louder.

Id just turn the sub gain down for a few days to give the speaker a chance to loosen up a bit before you toss lots of power to it.

---------------

perfect quick and fast info, thanks..

well i did get a fi-bl. fully loaded.

i have the 1600 watt amp,

a hc1800 battery,... yet my lights are dim and when i tap the gas they get brighter,.. i thought once i got a good battery i would be supplied enough juice to keep stuff like that from happening.. i have yet to do a big 3 upgrade idk if thats why... and on a stock alternator,.. wounder why its like that..

[audiofanaticz]

Do the Big 3, it will prob fix all the dimming.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=13280

Along with the big 3, run a bigger wire from your battery positive, to the main fuse block under the hood. Some people do it, some dont, but you will get better results if you do

You dont gotta use 0 gauge for updating that wire, but at least a 4 gauge wire.

[Guest Fi-Beat-Down]

Do the Big 3, it will prob fix all the dimming.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=13280

Along with the big 3, run a bigger wire from your battery positive, to the main fuse block under the hood. Some people do it, some dont, but you will get better results if you do

You dont gotta use 0 gauge for updating that wire, but at least a 4 gauge wire.

Ok, great im going to check that out now, yeah i want to do my car, im sure i have some stock thin wires on there i need to replace..

thanks buddy

[Boon]

Sounds like you may have snapped/burnt the tinsel lead or the bit of the coil that comes up the former to meet the tinsels at the dustcap.

Check the sub with a DMM set to ohms... should be within about 0.4 of what it's specified as.