westvan_dude Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 I'm fed up with running a sealed box and single 12" so fooled around with a new mdf box with dual 12's and slot vent. It's around 6cuft in mdf and tuned to around 37hz. Two Audiobahn AWT12X's with 4" coils. Bought them blown and reconed them myself. Just running a US Acoustics USX1000F on them so 2x400wrms. Pounds pretty good in the mdf box. Looking at an amp(s) upgrade to total around 2-4kw. So.... I have a vision of an mdf/fiberglass box which leaves me with both outboard seating positions still available in the back seat. Replace the entire seat bottom & frame, leave seatback. Mdf & glass entire enclosure to fit into seat bottom area. Centre of it kind of like an armrest but holding both subs. Amp might be mounted on the front below front sub across the bottom. It's 20" long. Not sure yet. Will need at least two 6" vents. Was thinking to mount them either side between subs but not sure. Any suggestions? Could I put a large vent either end of the seat bottom on the outboard sides or is it better to have vents close to subs? Here's my experimental mdf box just to check output on these babies and tuning: Here's theoretical placement of the subs if you can imagine fiberglass/mdf holding them in place: view from front seat looking back side view measuring tape about 27-28 inches high measuring tape about 19 inches deep or armrest hits sub if front seat is fully back I even had an idea of an acrylic top that the subs bolt into (3/4 or 1inch thick) bend at an angle between subs but fiberglass holding it in, kind of grafted into the enclosure so you can see those bling motors. Not sure though on the best way to integrate acrylic into fiberglass/mdf. Or some side windows on the sides of the armrest portion that holds the subs so you can see inside. I'd light it up with red LED strips in the bottom of the enclosure. Any suggestions are most welcome. I won't start serious glass work till March anyway. Thanks. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean 371 Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 I would run plexi on the sides. I'm not sure how you would bend it without reducing structural integrity, unless you have it custom formed. ($$$) Sounds like a sweet looking idea, post lots of pics. are you going to put bucket seats in instead? or build it over the seat? I'd try and swap the bench for some buckets if you can. It'd look real clean. A couple links to some box builds: Tahoe Box 1, Tahoe Box 2, Nissan Titan, VW GTI, Mini-Bump, Hummer H2, Ford F-150 My own car builds (current setup --- under construction): Overall Thread, Kickpods, Dash, Back Doors Subwoofer Wall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ChevyBoy Posted January 26, 2007 Report Share Posted January 26, 2007 i was gonna do something like that. i was gonna cut the middle out of my seat and mold it in somehow. instead, i built a new center console, and bought a box for under the backseat. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westvan_dude Posted January 27, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 27, 2007 I had thought about a plexiglass panel either side. Maybe a sq.ft. in size either side. I'm just trying to figure out the best way to fasten it in there. Most of the sides will be mdf. Then fleece & glass over the top where the subs mount. I'll be searching this site for any/all plexiglass installs. If you know of any shoot me some links please, or from other sites. As far as the seat bottom goes, my plan was instead of building the box on top and under the seat to get rid of the entire seat bottom which is a separate piece from the seat back. Then either go to a wrecker and have cushions made from same material or match it up at an upholstery shop to match the seat back. With that plan what each person sits on would be enclosure. If I used separate bucket seats I might as well ditch the front seats as well and go with a huge centre console.... now there's an idea!!! Who's gonna bankroll it? LOL I'd sew up a cover for it too so when you're parked in a dodgy spot just put some dark cloth over the whole centre portion. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean 371 Posted January 28, 2007 Report Share Posted January 28, 2007 What you could do is double up the side walls, and when you cut the hole for the plexi, leave a lip hanging that you can bolt the plexi to. Use weatherstripping tape between MDF and plexi. Then you can use either 1/4" MDF or some masonite and make a trim panel to hide the screws/weatherstripping/led's. Good luck, remember to keep posting pics! A couple links to some box builds: Tahoe Box 1, Tahoe Box 2, Nissan Titan, VW GTI, Mini-Bump, Hummer H2, Ford F-150 My own car builds (current setup --- under construction): Overall Thread, Kickpods, Dash, Back Doors Subwoofer Wall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westvan_dude Posted January 28, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 28, 2007 The idea was to use a thin layer of body filler on the whole project and finish with paint so any mdf would have to be sanded totally smooth. I'm thinking the only way would be to use a second layer of mdf as a lip inside the box. Use 1/2" thick plexi for windows. Weather seal or silicone as you mentioned. And bolted to the lip. I'm wondering if you could just rough up the first 3/4 inch or inch on the outside edge of the plexi where the bolts/screws are and use body filler mixed with a touch of resin over this area and blend it smoothly with the outer mdf. Wondering if that would hold up over time or if it would crack off the plexi and come off due to vibration? Guess I'm looking for expert opinions how you mount plexi in a fiberglass enclosure? I bought a crap-load of fiberglass supplies today. 10yds of 3oz mat, 3yds of 6oz fabric and some USC feather-rite body filler. Still have to buy some polyester rope for strength ribs. A friend needs some simple enclosures in the back of his 90' 4runner in the rear storage pockets so will get some good glassing experience on those. Speaking of which, have to get some cheap 8" subs on ebay that work in small enclosures.... Bondo Resin 4L 3oz mat, 6oz cloth Body filler (supposed to be real easy to sand) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westvan_dude Posted January 29, 2007 Author Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 Any suggestions on vent placement on this one? From the mdf experiment I know I need at least 55-60sqin. Had about 43sqin on the mdf box and it wasn't quite enough... bit of port noise. Not sure if I'll use tubes or make a slot port. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean 371 Posted January 29, 2007 Report Share Posted January 29, 2007 I think a slot port directed upwards at the back would be easiest. A couple links to some box builds: Tahoe Box 1, Tahoe Box 2, Nissan Titan, VW GTI, Mini-Bump, Hummer H2, Ford F-150 My own car builds (current setup --- under construction): Overall Thread, Kickpods, Dash, Back Doors Subwoofer Wall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
westvan_dude Posted February 18, 2007 Author Report Share Posted February 18, 2007 (edited) Ok, so I made a start today, but a small enclosure in the wife's Beetle. Just wanted to get the hang of stretching the cloth and laying up the glass before I start on my big box in the truck. It's only 10deg C though so pretty cold out. First night kept the piece in the basement and the whole house stinks of resin. F*k. Now I'm adding a lot of hardener. Seems to work ok. Keep it all in the carport now - less stink in the house. Sun is on it today and I've got a quasi heat lamp (just a red flood) in a lamp keeping the shaded side warm. Question: I've got thick stretch fleece cloth, two soakings of resin on that. Now have one layer of heavy mat on it. It's just a small enclosure about 1cuft and thinking of sticking a 10" in it. How many layers of mat do you think I need to add to the outside so it's strong enough? ----------------------------------------------------- So far I got resin inside and out and one layer of mat. Will likely do one more layer of mat inside, one more outside, then filler. Pics of the small guinea pig box for the Beetle as I go along: Edited February 19, 2007 by westvan_dude Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sean 371 Posted February 19, 2007 Report Share Posted February 19, 2007 keep adding layers until when you push on any area of the box with your thumb there is no flex whatsoever. that's normally sufficient for a lil 10. A couple links to some box builds: Tahoe Box 1, Tahoe Box 2, Nissan Titan, VW GTI, Mini-Bump, Hummer H2, Ford F-150 My own car builds (current setup --- under construction): Overall Thread, Kickpods, Dash, Back Doors Subwoofer Wall Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts