westvan_dude

I never signed up for an account so if I had logged out I'd be SOL. You'd think they'd send a ******* email with a link as well. Stupid. Ok, I know it's Friday and I haven't had a beer yet so maybe that's it?? LOL

Bloody hell.... now I found it under a different link: https://www.wccaraudio.com/downloadable/customer/products/

I'm looking at the invoice, etc but where it says: "Psyph Morrision - S.O.T.L Digital Download (choose 320kbps mp3, Apple Lossless, or .WAV) Links 320kbps MP3s and Artwork" Nothing is a live link, it's just text on the page. wtf.

Ok, so paid for it by paypal... no link no nuthin. Where do I get the download after paying for this ****?? Was it a pop-up or what, my browser is locked down.

Can't find shit on the net on this subject. Anybody build a subwoofer enclosure out of aluminum? Yup, I know, metal has resonance. However I'd build it from 1/4" plate with a 1" rib every few inches and line the inside with stick on dampening material. My aluminum welding is getting real good and I was toying with the idea vs stinky messy fiberglass which is option #2. If you've done one please post pics or a link, etc. I've got a real unique shape to do under my F250's rear seat. I've seen the 1/4 wave pipes, etc that are interesting but this would be conventional with possibly a removable port so I can play with port size/tuning.

I bought two of those cheapo hifonics subs some time ago. Got one in the wife's 09' Jetta custom fiberglass enclosure driver's side rear trunk wall. It's alright. Amp on it is too weak tho. Thinking about putting the other one on the other side of the trunk wall but too lazy to build another fiberglass box. Here's where I bought'em: http://www.vminnovations.com/product_701/H...fers_Pair_.html $55.95/pair Have to do something nuts in my crewcab first.

Inverted with motors out works great for sealed boxes getting a lot of amplifier power. You can imagine pushing 1000wrms into a 12" sub in a 1cu.ft sealed how fast that 1cu.ft of air gets HOT. With a ported box it doesn't matter and as mentioned changes the tuning slightly due to the larger air space in the box without motor displacement. Most people don't realize it but you can fry a sub in a sealed box pretty easy due to heat.

It's usually the excitement of getting it up and running so you can feel the bass so you rush things and shit happens. Sorry to hear about your mishap. Hope you get it fixed soon and at not too much cost.

Run into a bit of difficulty.... installing an Autotek MM4000.1D amplifier in my super duty pickup. Going 2/0 gauge from the battery to behind the back seat close to the amplifier. The amp takes twin #2 gauge positive inputs and has twin #2 gauge gnd connections. I've looked around for distribution blocks that take 2/0 input but also have 2/0 output. Can't seem to find any. Any suggestions? Otherwise I'm just going to terminate all cables in copper eyes and run a bolt through them all. Kinda ugly though.

I got some more pics up as it's coming along: http://photoshare.shaw.ca/messages/viewthu.../preview/page/1 60grit industrial sanding pads for the orbital sander make quick work of the body filler compared to the standard 60grit wood sanding pads. Also don't clog up, especially when the filler is cured 24hrs. It'll be another 2-3 evenings to finish off the body filler.

Here's a few more shots. Got the fleece all resined up. Time to work on adding glass to the inside.

Ok. Did another couple hours of work on it. Had to calculate the vent size/design. Had to move the top woofer ring up about 2 1/4 inches and slightly more horizontal from original positioning so it would adequately clear the fiberglass of the port where the mdf which you can see runs across and about 6" high to the backside of the top woofer ring. With the original position, the magnet/motor of the top sub would of interfered with the fiberglass of the port. Added jpeg images #25 to #31. Last few pics show rough fleece cloth positioning. Basically I will start by stretching it over the lower front facing woofer ring (which has the mdf ring loosely placed in the pics). Fit that real nice and tight and mount the mdf finish ring to the flange ring. Then stretch it up over the top mdf flange ring and mount the outer finish ring. Then just start from the bottom, pull the fleece real tight around all edges and staple it to the routered edges. The diagonal piece supporting the front of the top ring is only temporary so the ring doesn't flex too much while stretching cloth over it in the next step. After that it's fiberglass resin time. I can't wait to start but tomorrow night I'm out for dinner and tonight it got late as well as the temp is dropping overnight. Right now it's just before 9pm and it's dipping down below 2deg C. Almost freezing. No good for glassing. Hope it warms up a bit over next couple days. It worked out to about 5 1/4 cubes internal volume. Ideally I would of wanted 6cubes but oh well. Them's the breaks I guess. Will be tuned to 37hz according to Audiobahn specs. The port size is about ~20% more than my test enclosure. I had 45cu.in before, now it's 55cu.in. Not as much as I wanted and I'm sure way less than some of you guys use in comps but it's only a daily box. My box size wasn't quite ideal so didn't want to take up more interior volume as well as not wanting to move the top sub any worse than it is because the port is right behind it. The back wall is still missing, where the amp will mount. I left it off on purpose to make it easier to goop fiberglass resin on the inside of the box. Less messy that way. Will mount that mdf piece closer to the end. Just hit my photoshare link in the previous post to see all the pics.

Nairobi, Africa to somewhere south of that. http://www.tourdafrique.com/tourdafrique/ Ok boys & girls. Got pics up of the mdf work. It's finished except for the wall piece at the back/centre which will hold the amp bolted on from the backside. The modified slot port will be finished in behind the top woofer and it's backside being the piece where the amp is bolted on. More pics later. Just a couple pieces of mdf to cut, plus measure the overall volume of the enclosure for port tuning and I can start the fiberglass work. Pretty excited so far to see it coming along. It's about 18hrs worth over 4-5days at leisurely pace. Had to change things on the fly sometimes. No setbacks yet. Linky: Photoshare of my F150 rear seat buildup

Did a bunch of work on it over the weekend. Got 80% of the mdf in. The sub mdf rings are mounted. Still have to build the seat tops either side of the subs (in the centre), seat fronts and outboard seat sides. Then build the slot vent which is going to be one convoluted m*****f***er. Finally stretch cloth over the rings, glass it all in. So I'm maybe 25% done at this stage. Sorry no pics. Wife went on a 3wk bicycle trek and took the camera. Did get a friend's film camera and got some shots of the progress so far. Perhaps post those up next weekend if I get a chance.

Hey, I saw a video on the web where the music sounded kickass and www.giallani.com was in the credits for the music so I checked it out. It's all hip hop beats but real cool. So far I got his HIP HOP BEATS Vol4 and Vol5. Kicks the shit outta my car audio system. I paid about $9usd per cd for the full tracks but you can preview all albums at his website. Just click on the album covers on the left column and it'll play each track or all tracks (2mins only though). I ended up downloading them from www.tradebit.com . Enjoy!

You want the cap connected as close as possible to the amp to deliver those last second power surges when the amp needs it. So short power cable to the cap positive to the amp positive cable and also short connection between grounds. Ideally just get a distro block that hooks the cap inline with your power and ground cables. I dunno about others here but I'd always run a dedicated ground to your amps if you're running a lotta power. I wouldn't trust just the sheet metal, especially as the car body ground strap up front which connects the neg terminal of the OE battery to the chassis is usually not the largest gauge. No sense in running 1 gauge power cables and trying to rely on a pencil-neck ground strap to return the currect. Like this:

Ok, so I made a start today, but a small enclosure in the wife's Beetle. Just wanted to get the hang of stretching the cloth and laying up the glass before I start on my big box in the truck. It's only 10deg C though so pretty cold out. First night kept the piece in the basement and the whole house stinks of resin. F*k. Now I'm adding a lot of hardener. Seems to work ok. Keep it all in the carport now - less stink in the house. Sun is on it today and I've got a quasi heat lamp (just a red flood) in a lamp keeping the shaded side warm. Question: I've got thick stretch fleece cloth, two soakings of resin on that. Now have one layer of heavy mat on it. It's just a small enclosure about 1cuft and thinking of sticking a 10" in it. How many layers of mat do you think I need to add to the outside so it's strong enough? ----------------------------------------------------- So far I got resin inside and out and one layer of mat. Will likely do one more layer of mat inside, one more outside, then filler. Pics of the small guinea pig box for the Beetle as I go along:

Does it light up when you turn it on?

Sounds good. Hope u got a deal on it.... $300 cuts into my amplifier fund too much.

Why run vista in a mobile application? I hope you have at least 1gb of ram and some horsepower in your processor... never-mind all the "call home to big brother" junk in Vista. I'll let someone else be the vista guinea pig first before I switch. LOL Ideally you'd want a lean mean version of XP Pro or any other OS that's not fat & bloated full of unnecessary stuff you're never going to use.

The new AVG is alright. They also have a spyware version that you can get 30day trial for. Use that. Also get Spybot Search&Destroy v1.4 which works good, make sure to install the "tea timer" software. It helps prevent software from installing simply by clicking on webpages. Use your common sense to when browsing and use firefox, stay the f away from MS explorer <cough>exploder<cough>.

I play dvd movies with windvd. Super sharp picture. Don't have a "carputer" just yet. Workin on it. At home I have a separate computer running BeyondTV from www.snapstream.com to record all my fav tv shows. When I watch the shows it has commercial skip feature. Luv that. Anyway... windvd has a very sharp picture on my tv....61" JVC LCD rear projection. Using DVI output on the computer to HDMI input on the tv. Forget blueray and all that other marketing gimmick crap, just get a dvd player with dvi or hdmi output. It'll blow you away. If you are using S-video, composite or even component it's not even touching DVI's digital image quality. I use my 61" as a monitor and can read small text. Try that with s-video or whatever. Blueray is for idiots who want to see Sony stock rise and get a walletectomy. If you don't have an HD tv you're REALLY wasting your money. Powerdvd also works good for video playback. MS media player is a POS, avoid that resource hog that calls mommy every 2 secs to report.

Hey that looks really nice. How did you mount the plexi into the mdf? I'm looking to do something similar. I'm guessing you used some 1/4" fiberboard and wrapped that in vinyl? Hard to tell in the pics. I'm going for a painted smooth exterior so edges of the plexi should form smoothly into the glass/mdf somehow. Inside of your box looks real clean too. Do you have any pics of mounting the plexi in the box?

I always caulk, but just a very thin bead of silicone so you can pry them out. Does make it a lot more secure. I'm still thinking of making the mounting face for the subs out of 3/4 or 1inch acrylic plexiglass. Wonder what screws work best for that. You'd want some kind of bolts with a large washer on the inside to distribute the pressure or the acrylic might crack. Any suggestions?

You'd think they'd leave their existing site up before a replacement is ready. Something is better than nothing.