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Kryptonitewhite's Pics And Vids Build Log Fi Ib3 18" And 22"


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so I couldn't wait anymore, I decided to use the wood I have to build a quick box to get us through so we could take our time and do the final box as good as we can. so we re-took some measurements so we could build as big as we could outside and slide it in. I didn't calculate anything, just got the max dimensions and made the port go all the way back less 1 port diameter.... I just did it and what a trip, it's right where we were aiming for anyway... we might just keep this box as is unless we do get a 22".... I put the port close to the sub to get more wall clearance, making this box obsolete for a 22"...cuz it is ... was... just a temp sloppy box to get by... well check this, I was aiming for >20 cubes and 15Hz tuning.... and now that I sat down, we have 22 cubes @ 15Hz with a 20" port length. What are the freakin odds?!

I'm keepin it as is. Now the big debate may as well start now, so after I post these pics here ( camera died, I have to go out and take more pics now that we're home... box basically complete in-car....)

After this post I'll post my plans I made 2 weeks ago... showing we are on target as is :D :D

taking out factory

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considering leaving factory in and putting CD deck in center console

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looks good

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the driver side power window has been intermitten... switch is going bad... decided to pull the door apart too to replace switch and see what we're working with to put 2 Extremis 6.4's in each door... fiberglass/bondo

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IB3 22"

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thank god ya can't see my measurements, cuts, or close ups of the final outcome... I was in a hurry to get something in by the end of the day

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freezing rain and windy all day

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front... close to wall/baffle size to get an idea of what the wall will be like

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blurry... shows how close we are, taking up just about everything we can

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bottom too

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my sausages stickin out... i liked sitting inside the box when it was complete too

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IB3 22"

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BEFORE WE GET INTO THE BIG DEBATE:

I have t-nuts and #10 security screws that do not fit into the mounting flange holes on the sub!!!!

OK, debate on.

I know, I know... "why tune below 25-27Hz in car?!" Music rarely has information below 30Hz... why tune below 33Hz!!! Car's cabin gain can be as much as 12dB/oct from 60Hz on down.... yadda yadda.

For those of you that will NOT be able to just deal with it, please PLEASE just pretend it is 22 cubes SEALED for an IB sub! PLEASE! ( I know you won't but at least I asked) Since you know so much, then you know that all vented cabinets act as a sealed enclosure above the range where the port helps. So me tuning at 15Hz, IF the port is never used cuz my music doesn't go that low, I would be more than happy with this sub in a sealed cabinet of it's size, especially after cabin gain. (not really, but I'm tired of this argument)

I have done this before. The 4th order bandpass design you see in my avatar (some of your forums require too much effort to add a custom avatar, I will include a pic) is with an F3 of 20Hz and an S factor of .7 I designed it from Shavono.com before I learned how to use Bass Box Pro 6 and WinISD Pro. My POS Lanzar amp bottomed the sub before I got to even seal the lid... it's advertised shut off mute did not work after testing.... so the former smashed on the top plate and the coil unwound. I had to cut it open and it became a vented cabinet of 5.1 cubic feet tuned to 19Hz. I had an S15L7 in 3.5 cubes @ 27Hz. I have been there, i have done that, I have heard good setups tuned to 33Hz and 27Hz, deal with it!

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IB3 22"

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