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Iraggi 300amp Alternator F/s


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If it sells for $325 shipped, I will also insure it up to $400 at my expense!

If it sells for less then $325 you pay shipping, and insurance is at your discretion and also comming out of your pocket. First $100 worth of value is free from UPS.

Of coarse I will provide tracking info.

PayPal only, unless deal is made to meat up, then cash only.

NO SCANDALOUS Paypal fees charged!

I will only ship ups ground, easiest and more convienent for me.

 

 

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I dunno, looking different from that view now, its looking like the same setup as my hoe.

from center of one mounting bolt to the center of the other its about 7 and 1/4th inches on the alt Im selling.

From bolt to bolt on the style alt on my hoe is about 5.5 inches

It looks like they came with both style alts according to autozone.

They style Im selling.

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and they style that wont fit, like my hoe.

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I took some pics, dont think they will help much kinda dark. and no flash on the cell.

red dots are the 2 mounting wholes.

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So where would my brown wire plug into? Whats it for? http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/dirol.gif

Id just tape off the plug to prevent corrosion and leave it dangle someplace. Your cars computer sends a signal thru that wire telling your alternator how much power too produce.

A externally regulated alternator is going to bypass all the stock charging abilities. Your going to turn the dial to your desired voltage, lets say 15 volts, and that alternator is going to produce a continuous 15 volts.

Some newer vechiles will have a issue, and throw a no charging error light on your instrament cluster. My fully loaded caddy thru no errors however and I doubt a burban would either. It is mostly on hondas, audis, vws, etc that Ive read those kinda problems.

My caddy would except charging up to 16.3 volts, after that I got errors from my computer, saying voltage too high, srs air bag disable. But I was over charging a 12 volt battery setup during comps, then usally kept volts around 15 volt which is a safe charging voltage for my powermaster batteries. Thats why you see my voltage drop to 13.9ish when I was at idle/stopped speeds powering a easy 3000wrms with 2 rf10001bds synced at 1.5 ohms.

However if you run a 16 volt battery bank, you will want to charge at 18 volts (and run either a 12/16volt battery with 3 posts for the vehicles other electrical components, or stepdown regulators to not overcharge your vehicles components.

 

 

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Looking at your alt I see where you say the bolt pattern is like 9-oclock/3-oclock and mine is more like 7 and 4. I know when I got the Alt for my Dime Dom included a bracket...maybe thats what I/You need....Man I want this but I gotta talk to Dom first.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/dirol.gif

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Looking at your alt I see where you say the bolt pattern is like 9-oclock/3-oclock and mine is more like 7 and 4. I know when I got the Alt for my Dime Dom included a bracket...maybe thats what I/You need....Man I want this but I gotta talk to Dom first.

http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/public/style_emoticons/default/dirol.gif

well shit son... if there is a bracket to convert it, Its not for sale!!! ahhahahahaha but then to run 3alts like planned Id need the current style my hoe has( So it would only prolong me selling it)..

My origional plan was to run 2 externally regulated alts 300amp iraggi, and 280amp ohio, and then the stock alt for the truck itself but no such bracket is made to run both style alts at once.. :(

So just let me know mang. :)

 

 

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Bump!

Still need this gone...

Someone told me they would never pay the amount I payed for an alternator, and said other companies are way cheaper.

After researching it, all competitor company alts that will do 300+ amps are just as much, if not more (and thats not including a external regulator either).

 

 

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