rumproast789 Posted February 24, 2009 Report Share Posted February 24, 2009 I have my btl, and I am borrowing my friends sub amp to listen to the sub because I can't afford an amp just yet. I am dying to hear it. It is wired at 1 ohm, but really .7 ohm (DMM). It says the amp is 1 ohm capable, but It goes into protect when I turn the amp on. What could be the problem, maybe its not 1 ohm capable? or the .7 ohm is too low? Quote 2002 ford explorer 200 amp rewound alt single 18" Fi btl fully loaded 2 1750's 2 c&d tech 88amp/hr batts 2 ought wiring cdt component set up front, cdt coaxials in back Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X693 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
sri3850341 Posted February 24, 2009 Report Share Posted February 24, 2009 is that with a signal or as soon as it turns on Quote 07 mote carlo.. deh-p800prs hu-cdt gold 6.5's-cdt 6x9 2 ways-mcintosh mc431m(mids/highs) bxi2608,2 10w7's in 4rth order(designed by pete k)ported into cabin via armrest cutout dc power 260 amp alt-missing link module (15.4v)kicker 1/0 kit deka intimidator under hood metered 141.0 @ 32hz windows down @ kick,termlab Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rumproast789 Posted February 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2009 is that with a signal or as soon as it turns on with a signal Think .7 and 1 ohm makes that big of a difference? Please help! I just wanna hear this!!! Quote 2002 ford explorer 200 amp rewound alt single 18" Fi btl fully loaded 2 1750's 2 c&d tech 88amp/hr batts 2 ought wiring cdt component set up front, cdt coaxials in back Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X693 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rumproast789 Posted February 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2009 (edited) update: I turned all the settings the other way, apparently I had the gain maxed out lol... I was confused and thought .2 was less than 6. I guess not though. Anyways, I got it to turn on and not go into protect while music was playing (car was off) So I turned the car on, and it didn't turn on. The big Crunch light didn't light up... Why isn't this working? could temperature be an issue? could my remote wire be messed up? the wire looked a little bad... maybe ill restrip it.. Edited February 24, 2009 by rumproast789 Quote 2002 ford explorer 200 amp rewound alt single 18" Fi btl fully loaded 2 1750's 2 c&d tech 88amp/hr batts 2 ought wiring cdt component set up front, cdt coaxials in back Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X693 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Graph1cz Posted February 24, 2009 Report Share Posted February 24, 2009 update: I turned all the settings the other way, apparently I had the gain maxed out lol... I was confused and thought .2 was less than 6. I guess not though. Anyways, I got it to turn on and not go into protect while music was playing (car was off) So I turned the car on, and it didn't turn on. The big Crunch light didn't light up... Why isn't this working? could temperature be an issue? could my remote wire be messed up? the wire looked a little bad... maybe ill restrip it.. it shouldnt be getting hot if you're not playing it try restripping the remote or replacing the wire completely check ground also and rca Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tibs Posted February 24, 2009 Report Share Posted February 24, 2009 jump the hot to the remote to see if it turns on still Quote Tibs 99 F-150 Build 8 twelves 8 - Re SE 12"s 2 - SunDown Audio Saz-3000d's 1 - vx4004 planet audio amp big 3 1/0 gauge MECHMAN 250 amp alt MySpace Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rumproast789 Posted February 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2009 it shouldnt be getting hot if you're not playing ittry restripping the remote or replacing the wire completely check ground also and rca I will restrip the remote wire, and the ground is connected to the seat bolt. I don't think it was sanded down, but it worked when I had the amp in a long time ago just fine. I checked under the hood and I popped a fuse when I sparked tryign to connect the power wire lol. I'll have to go get a new one, and I'll just retry it all. Thanks man, I was getting hopeless that no one was helping I'll post back if it works Quote 2002 ford explorer 200 amp rewound alt single 18" Fi btl fully loaded 2 1750's 2 c&d tech 88amp/hr batts 2 ought wiring cdt component set up front, cdt coaxials in back Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X693 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rumproast789 Posted February 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2009 jump the hot to the remote to see if it turns on still What do you mean? Quote 2002 ford explorer 200 amp rewound alt single 18" Fi btl fully loaded 2 1750's 2 c&d tech 88amp/hr batts 2 ought wiring cdt component set up front, cdt coaxials in back Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X693 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eliassami5 Posted February 24, 2009 Report Share Posted February 24, 2009 What do you mean? take a wire from your positive input on your amp and jump it to the remote turn on input. Quote 91' Jeep Cherokee - The Heep Just Empty Every Pocket 96' Volvo 960 - The B◘x [sPL_4_U] HiFonics - Alpine Pioneer - Clarion Infinity - Kicker KnuKonceptz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rumproast789 Posted February 24, 2009 Author Report Share Posted February 24, 2009 take a wire from your positive input on your amp and jump it to the remote turn on input. positive power wire? or positive speaker wire? and by jump it you mean put the two together in the remote turn on hole? Sry, I thought I knew a lot of this stuff, but I've NEVER heard of this method Quote 2002 ford explorer 200 amp rewound alt single 18" Fi btl fully loaded 2 1750's 2 c&d tech 88amp/hr batts 2 ought wiring cdt component set up front, cdt coaxials in back Kenwood eXcelon KDC-X693 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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