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thanks ya'll. i will probably go with the ring terminals. any chance any of ya'll know what size i might need? in any case wheather i choose the terminal cups or the ring terminals? it looks like pretty thick cable in regards to normal speaker wire i've seen in the past that connects to the subs.

shit bro sounds like you got one helluva set up, what subs you be slappin?!?!?

and just go to a car audio shop and ask for one

'98 Dodge Durango 5.9L

5% front windows, 2.5% on all backs

Alpine CDA-9883

Kicker ZX350.4

Kicker KS650's in all doors

Kicker 1/0 hyperflex

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Bolts are a really crappy way to go, electrically. Unless they're solid copper or aluminum, which is unlikely.

step 1. drill hole

step 2. push wire through

step 3. caulk the f**k outta it

10x times better electrical connection and less screwing around. Bring each sub terminal out if you want wiring option flexibility.

2001 Chevy Blazer

(2) SAZ-3000Ds

(2) custom 18" Madmax subs in a second row wall

Rockford 600-4

Pioneer PRS components

Pioneer P800PRS deck

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shit bro sounds like you got one helluva set up, what subs you be slappin?!?!?

and just go to a car audio shop and ask for one

well i got a '05 nissan altima. im throwin in 2 eclipse sw8200, with 2 sets of boston pro60's for the comps. and i got a rockford fosgate t20001bd powering the subs and t8004 pwoering the comps., got kenetik hc2400 in the front with hc800 in the rear. alpine deck. ground 1/0 awg from front to back to the amps running 1/0 to a monster distribution block that splits to two 4 awg to the amps then the monster 402xln goes from the amps to the subs. all connects and wiring is monster.

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Bolts are a really crappy way to go, electrically. Unless they're solid copper or aluminum, which is unlikely.

step 1. drill hole

step 2. push wire through

step 3. caulk the f**k outta it

10x times better electrical connection and less screwing around. Bring each sub terminal out if you want wiring option flexibility.

haha. that sounds the easiest way, but i want to make it look nice brooooo! haha

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Well thats why you caulk the inside only. And you can bring the wires out in one area of the box and then put wire loom or tech flex over it all. :)

2001 Chevy Blazer

(2) SAZ-3000Ds

(2) custom 18" Madmax subs in a second row wall

Rockford 600-4

Pioneer PRS components

Pioneer P800PRS deck

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Bolts are a really crappy way to go, electrically. Unless they're solid copper or aluminum, which is unlikely.

step 1. drill hole

step 2. push wire through

step 3. caulk the f**k outta it

10x times better electrical connection and less screwing around. Bring each sub terminal out if you want wiring option flexibility.

I did that to one of my boxes and it looked really nice

"Audio is not a hobby it's a lifestyle"

_____________________________Refs_1_Refs_2_____________________________

th_140x100square.jpgth_140x100rev2animated.gifth_RF_140x100_powersubs.jpg

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I did that to one of my boxes and it looked really nice

really now? anyways who. i bought some terminal cups. i kinda got an idea of what to do now. but im still wondering if i should try that idea also, just for the hell of it, and see if im really gonna tell the different. but i dont want to mess up my box. :aggressive:

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go ahead and drill the holes for the speaker wire and if you don't like it the cut out the hole for the terminal cup where you drilled the holes.

i personally always run my wires through drilled holes because when shit vibrates around for long enough it likes to loosen up. and plus you don't have to worry about getting a good connection.

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