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Big 3 And What Wire To Use


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I have about 8 1/2 feet of 8 guage wire laying around. I have a 4 guage power wire going to my amp. Is it ok to use 2 runs of wire for each of the big 3 or will it not have any effect what so ever?

The System In Progress

Headunit: Pioneer DEH5800MP

Sub: DC Sound Lab Level 4 15" D2

Box: 4 cubes at 33Hz

Sub Amp: Cadence Z1200

Front Stage: PG RSD5cs

Rear Stage: Pioneer TSA6991R (Temporary)

Front and Rear Amp: Cadence TXA3004 (FS) (Looking)

Wiring: XScorpion, American Bass, Stinger Custom Pro 4 Gauge

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well if ur ever going ot upgrade in more power... u gonna need to do the big 3 again....

id say wait and do it in the biggest gauge u can.... the stock bat and alt wires are usually 8g in most vehicles ive done

just in example.... knukonceptz flex 4g is 2058strands..... 2 8g of the same wire are only 1600strands.... so bigger is better in handling more current

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That sucks. I didnt really want to buy more wire. I just dropped $500 I didnt have as it was.

The System In Progress

Headunit: Pioneer DEH5800MP

Sub: DC Sound Lab Level 4 15" D2

Box: 4 cubes at 33Hz

Sub Amp: Cadence Z1200

Front Stage: PG RSD5cs

Rear Stage: Pioneer TSA6991R (Temporary)

Front and Rear Amp: Cadence TXA3004 (FS) (Looking)

Wiring: XScorpion, American Bass, Stinger Custom Pro 4 Gauge

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Right now my headlights will dim if I hit about 30-35 on my HU. It gets really bad if I hit 40. Its bad enough it will eventually kill the alternator. I dont think 8 guage will help at all. I was more curious if doing a double run of 8 guage will really work. Im not sure if the electrical system will use both wires evenly or what.

The System In Progress

Headunit: Pioneer DEH5800MP

Sub: DC Sound Lab Level 4 15" D2

Box: 4 cubes at 33Hz

Sub Amp: Cadence Z1200

Front Stage: PG RSD5cs

Rear Stage: Pioneer TSA6991R (Temporary)

Front and Rear Amp: Cadence TXA3004 (FS) (Looking)

Wiring: XScorpion, American Bass, Stinger Custom Pro 4 Gauge

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im using 2/0 ga wire for my big 3...got mine set up where the pos of alt is on the the pos of bat. then at the alts bolt down i have the terminal there and connected to the bat neg..then the bat neg is connected to frame...

the alt to bat neg takes place of my engine block to chassis...its the same thing basically. also with that i see MUCH better current through the vehicle and all ground noise that i had before that came out of my tweets and hights...COMPLETELY gone

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