OmegaBunny Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 New to the forum but trying to get some answers. I usually post on CA but can't seem to get any answers and if I do you usuall need to plow through the crap to find any useful information. Not that I do not like the people there, there are some really knowledgable people who are happy to help, but you all seem to be a little more willing to share information, so here goes. Was looking at 2 10's, 2 12's, or a single 15 all in a ported box. Want something that can get low but still geared more for SQ. Can you still manage to get decent sq out of a 15, or should I look more at 10's or 12's for that? If I can manage a 15 and still have SQ, throw out some suggestions for some drivers if you do not mind, I was looking at the *** trash. If I should go with 10's or 12's, please list some that can get low while retaining SQ. I'm looking for a 15 or 10's/12's that can handle 1200 - 1600w. Have 1,200 now but might purchase a new amp. I do not want to go over 1,600 on stock electrical. (I have a Durango, figure stock alt should handle this just fine, correct me if wrong) Question about amp resistance (sorry if a noob question, just trying to figure this out): If an amp is 1 ohm stable it can handle say 1.5 ohm load, correct? How do you fiqure the power for a load like that? If it did say, 600w @ 2 ohm, 1,200w @ 1 ohm, would it do 900w @ 1.5ohms? Thanks for any help and any flames associated! Quote 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Box Built by Pro-Rabbit: 5.5 ft @ 30hz H/U Kenwood DNX6960 300mr up front, Kinetix HC 2000 in back Sub: 1-18" Sundown Zv3 Sub Amp: Memphis Audio 2k Front Stage: Hybrid Audio L6 mids, SEAS Neo Tweets, SAX 100.4, RF 3sixty.2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
FiBTLforlife Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 woofer = FiQ15, FiQ12, FiQ10 just depends how much bass you want Quote 2 AQ 10'' HDC3 copper subs 1 3500d AQ amp 146.3db on TL with stock electrical in single cab truck at 32hz RESULT: 1st place at comp, 3rd overall out of 20 cars Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Bumpindemlowzz Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 Dc level 3 12's. Or Fi Q 12's. Your electrical should be fine up to 2000 but it all depends really on the amp draw. Quote 2010 Silverado 18" DC XL 18 DC 2k XS Power Batts Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
eaglescorpio1 Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 I have 2 15" fi q's on 1000 watts each (200-500 watts below rms) in 2.8cubes per sub after displacment tuned to 35hz and it handles the double bass on fear factory no problem and still knocks heads off with bass heavy rap. Throw in some pink floyd or the eagles and they are very musical. Just speaking for what I have. And yes, you would be correct about the 900 watts for 1.5 ohms if its rated at 600 for 2ohms and 1200 for 1ohm. Quote Loud as f*ck, and sounds good doing it. Team built from here on out!!!! BIG things to come......... Missing link is the shite!!! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo_frog Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 First off, welcome to the forum. Most of the answers you'll get for this question is the Fi Q on this site. And it is meant to get low and have amazing quality in either a sealed or a ported box. The size is up to you. Yes, a 1-ohm stable amp can always handle a load >1 ohm. It's when you go lower that there may be a problem. If you're getting 1200 at 1-ohm, then 1200/1.5 = 800W. <--This value is not necessarily exact, but it's a roundabout figure of where you'll be. Quote Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OmegaBunny Posted April 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 Thanks for the replys. I actually looked at the Fi subs and liked what I saw (online). I'm from a small town so unless its JL or RF I have every limited access to other brands. I know the Fi Q is rated at 1000w but how would it perform on ~600-800 if I decided to go with 2 12's. Quote 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Box Built by Pro-Rabbit: 5.5 ft @ 30hz H/U Kenwood DNX6960 300mr up front, Kinetix HC 2000 in back Sub: 1-18" Sundown Zv3 Sub Amp: Memphis Audio 2k Front Stage: Hybrid Audio L6 mids, SEAS Neo Tweets, SAX 100.4, RF 3sixty.2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo_frog Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 Thanks for the replys. I actually looked at the Fi subs and liked what I saw (online). I'm from a small town so unless its JL or RF I have every limited access to other brands. I know the Fi Q is rated at 1000w but how would it perform on ~600-800 if I decided to go with 2 12's. Well as with any sub, if you don't give it at least rated, you run the risk of it not performing to its potential. The wattage is the reason the driver moves in the first place, so if you're not giving it all, you aren't moving the driver. Why not just get them and upgrade amps later? Or you could get the D2 and put one amp to each sub? Quote Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OmegaBunny Posted April 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 Well I have a Hifonics Brutus Bxi1210D that puts out 1200 @ 1. It has been a good amp so I was looking at getting a Bxi1610d doing 1600 @ 1. I would love to do 2000 but fear the stock electrical might not like it too much. 1,600 is a rang I would be comfortable with until I can do an electrical upgrade, if I choose to go that far. Quote 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Box Built by Pro-Rabbit: 5.5 ft @ 30hz H/U Kenwood DNX6960 300mr up front, Kinetix HC 2000 in back Sub: 1-18" Sundown Zv3 Sub Amp: Memphis Audio 2k Front Stage: Hybrid Audio L6 mids, SEAS Neo Tweets, SAX 100.4, RF 3sixty.2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Neo_frog Posted April 8, 2009 Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 Well electrical is necessary for going big unfortunately. I'd say get another 1210d and dual 2 ohm coils. Monitor your voltage and upgrade as neccesary. You will still get good and loud without cranking it. Quote Need an install? Hit me up.[email protected]Got car audio questions? Check here first!Everything you need to know. =]http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/83029-everything-you-need-to-know/ Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
OmegaBunny Posted April 8, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 8, 2009 (edited) Eventually I will do some upgrades, probably nothing more than big 3 and a better battery. Don't really want to have to worry about the Alt, etxra batteries etc., if I don't have to. I will still consider my options. What are some other decent budget amps that put out 1600 @ 1 for around the same price $236 shipped? *Edit* I am just looking for a decent daily driver setup. Not looking to win competitions...yet. Edited April 8, 2009 by OmegaBunny Quote 2007 Toyota FJ Cruiser Box Built by Pro-Rabbit: 5.5 ft @ 30hz H/U Kenwood DNX6960 300mr up front, Kinetix HC 2000 in back Sub: 1-18" Sundown Zv3 Sub Amp: Memphis Audio 2k Front Stage: Hybrid Audio L6 mids, SEAS Neo Tweets, SAX 100.4, RF 3sixty.2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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