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I had a bagged and bodydropped Blazer. They are a pain in the ass to work on since you can't remove a bed.

I will tell you a quick and easy way to bag it, but you did mention you may want to lay frame in the future so you may go ahead and do that now as it will cost 2x as much down the road.

1st off, NOONE makes a bolt on kit or link system for Blazers. You have to build it. Suicidedoors.com does make a mini bolt in notch for the crooked frame (2 door) that you can get. Then you can either run a monoleaf with a bag set-up or do a 2 link. (I hate both and don't recommens them, but they are options)

I sugggest a 6 valve set-up. 4 for the front and 2 for the rear.

SLAM bags are the way to go. re-7's all the way around. (I have a pair of re-7's for sale BTW... $150+shipping)

Depending on wheel size, you may have to cut out or roll over the lip inside the rear wheel housing tub. (stick your hand in there, you will see what I mean) and then probally have to remove the inner fender wheels on the front. If you do that, you have to relocate some things.

As you see so far, it isn't a plug and play deal.

There is very little room for tanks outside the blazer, so in the cargo area it will have to go. Compressors can be mounted behind the rear bumber end caps.

2nd options to lay frame...... A big notch. You will have to cut into the floor for that. And the rear wheel tubs will have to be cut into also. If you run an 18, you can cut very little and keep the rear seat. You also have to make room for the driveshaft so that will have to be raised some.

I suggest a 4 link. So a crossmember will have to be fabbed for the forward link mounts. Don't forget to do a crossbar between the notches to keep the frame from flexing.

With a big notch, you can do a bag over axel with the upper bag mounts to the notch for ease.

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Building The Best.....Repairing The Rest

The bitter after-taste of a poor quality job will last far longer

than the sweetness of that cheap price!

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ok i got some of the stuff, theres the hose an some misc. fittings not pictured...

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the compressor is a viair 400

50 bucks... did i get a good deal? ill probably sell the tank to a friend an get a different one, it has all 3/8 hosing, idk if i should get bigger or not, thanks for the input so far, keep in mind its on 22s lol

Build log: Click

Feedback: http://www.stevemead...xbccp-feedback/

03 Chevy Blazer

- IPad Air 2 

- ALPINE Head Unit

- 4 DC XL 18s

- 2 DC 3.5k

- ALPINE TYPE R 5.25 COMP

- 3 ALPINE TYPE R 6.5 COMPs

- DC 175.4

- DC HO Alt

- D3400

- 4 XP3000s

- KNU 0ga

- 60 SqFt Damp Pro

Lots more...

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For $50, yes, you got a hell of a deal.

Manual valves FTL. So I say you need new valves. Six 3/8 valves IMO.

And on 22's, the front is ALOT, I mean ALOT of work. The rear, pretty much the same no matter what size unless your going bigger than that.

normal_EPICENTERDESIGNS_128.gif

Building The Best.....Repairing The Rest

The bitter after-taste of a poor quality job will last far longer

than the sweetness of that cheap price!

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why 6 valves?? i dont plan on getting bigger rims or tires, the things im wondering is what all i need besides the bags, the notch an new valves, like i know i need cups for the bags but idk what ones i need an other stuff like that, the same stuffs whats confusing me an what fittings ill need

Build log: Click

Feedback: http://www.stevemead...xbccp-feedback/

03 Chevy Blazer

- IPad Air 2 

- ALPINE Head Unit

- 4 DC XL 18s

- 2 DC 3.5k

- ALPINE TYPE R 5.25 COMP

- 3 ALPINE TYPE R 6.5 COMPs

- DC 175.4

- DC HO Alt

- D3400

- 4 XP3000s

- KNU 0ga

- 60 SqFt Damp Pro

Lots more...

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Like I mentioned earlier, 6 valves is my preference.

2 for each front corner = 4 valves for up and down of each corner.

2 for the rear of up and down.

I like to keep the front set up as individual so you can compensate for any lean you may get. The back will level itself out thru air transfere via the airline between the bags.

You could do 8 valves and have a front up and down, back up and down, and then each front corner. Forget about side to side. it's played.

Onto the parts list..... here is a good friend of mine that I would suggest you order from.... http://www.streetissuecustoms.com .... he sponsored my Blazer build when I had it.

For the front, you will need a set of s-10 front bag cups $69

Should you change out the bags, I suggest a pair of RE-7 Slam bags for $150/pair

To complete the set-up, you will need airline and TWO 90* fittings. I suggest PTC(push to connect) and they are around $5 each.

On to the rear.......

A link set-up is needed. It can be a monoleaf with bags, but that can be unsafe, especially with any weight in the cargo area...i.e. huge sub box/audio.

So I suggest a 4 link. There is an economy 4 link from Doug for $239

With that, you will need to make a custom crossmember for the front mounts, but everything else is included.

Now for bags in the rear it will depend on what notch you choose. You can do a mini notch like this for $90 http://www.suicidedoors.com/notches/blazer-bolt-c-notch

Or get a Blazer step notch for $140 like this http://www.suicidedoors.com/notches/blazer-step-notch

The pic of the step notch shows it is welded, but it doesn't come like that. You have to weld it. Also, you have to use the crooked Blazer notches I showed as a normal notch will not work on your Blazer. The frame is crooked. And suicidedoors is the only place that makes them. Thats why i used thier pics. But Doug can get them.

Onto the bags for the rear. Again, I will suggest the RE-7 Slams as above. $150/pair.

If you do the bolt in mini notch, I think you can get the below and behind axel brackets and mount them in front of the axel (backwards) just to the sides of the driveshaft.

By doing this, it will require a custom upper mount for the bags, but keep the floor intact with good planning. $59

If you do the step notch, the floor will be cut open some already and you can do an over the axel set up. Use these for the bottom $24

When looking at axel brackets, you have a 2.75" axel tube, so keep that in mind.

And then these at the top $40 http://www.suicidedoors.com/bag-brackets/r...ket-single-port

Valves are gonna get different reviews. I have always used SMC. 3/8 for $32 each.

I think I covered it all. If not, let me know.

EDIT I had pics for everything, but it wouldn't let me link to dynamic links. Whatever that is.

normal_EPICENTERDESIGNS_128.gif

Building The Best.....Repairing The Rest

The bitter after-taste of a poor quality job will last far longer

than the sweetness of that cheap price!

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i thought that axel where 2.75 or is that only on the 4dr model ?

You are correct. I must not have hit the 7 key hard enough. Good catch.

normal_EPICENTERDESIGNS_128.gif

Building The Best.....Repairing The Rest

The bitter after-taste of a poor quality job will last far longer

than the sweetness of that cheap price!

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what would happen if i just put the bags in with no notch or 4 link or any other modification? jw, someone said i could do that an it would work till i got more money for the 4link an time to do all the other stuff

Build log: Click

Feedback: http://www.stevemead...xbccp-feedback/

03 Chevy Blazer

- IPad Air 2 

- ALPINE Head Unit

- 4 DC XL 18s

- 2 DC 3.5k

- ALPINE TYPE R 5.25 COMP

- 3 ALPINE TYPE R 6.5 COMPs

- DC 175.4

- DC HO Alt

- D3400

- 4 XP3000s

- KNU 0ga

- 60 SqFt Damp Pro

Lots more...

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You would have to do a mono leaf set-up. Which means removing the leaf pack and installing only the longest one and the upper one.

Then getting an air over leaf style set-up. http://www.ridetech.com/catalog/AIRoverLeaf-28-1.html

normal_EPICENTERDESIGNS_128.gif

Building The Best.....Repairing The Rest

The bitter after-taste of a poor quality job will last far longer

than the sweetness of that cheap price!

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