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Amp Dimmens , Speaker Cuts In And Out ?


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I dont know exactly how to explain this I have tried everything I can think of plus what you all have said. But none of it seems to work so i will take one more chance to explain it in hopes that someone has had it happened to them.

Ok when I turn up the Volume on the Radio to high witch is not very high, the Amp lights dimmen and the speaker cuts in and out its not clipping it either. And the lights on the truck dont dimmen when the amp does so does this mean bad connection on Wire ? I sanded ground down and replaced wire. and checked fuses and all nothing changes changed head unit got a new one and got new RCA's everything. Only thing left is to change out Power wire.

I noticed today when I was checkin power wire it was corroaded on the battery terminal where the wire is hooked to connecter maybe this was a clear , problem not sure it isnt bad corroison but I dont know how much it takes to make it not work. And thats the only thing I can think of I am thinking of running the 1/0 gauge New wire to the Red box on my truck like FiBL4life had his.

Thanks and Sorry for any repost!

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clean up the corroded terminals on the battery.

what kinda power is the amp? how strong is your electrical? sounds like a voltage problem.

x2.

run an extra ground as well. just from anywhere real quick to see if this helps. just because you have a good metal to metal contact doesn't mean its a good ground.

you can leave the ground you have now, just run a temporary one and see if it helps. sounds like bad connection somewhere, either ground or power.

also. what size fuse do you have? you might have to small of a fuse on your power wire for your amp. you should have a fuse at least the same amps (fuse rating) of the fuses in your amps.

if your amps have 60 amps worth of fuses then you should have at least that much on your power wire.

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x2.

run an extra ground as well. just from anywhere real quick to see if this helps. just because you have a good metal to metal contact doesn't mean its a good ground.

you can leave the ground you have now, just run a temporary one and see if it helps. sounds like bad connection somewhere, either ground or power.

also. what size fuse do you have? you might have to small of a fuse on your power wire for your amp. you should have a fuse at least the same amps (fuse rating) of the fuses in your amps.

if your amps have 60 amps worth of fuses then you should have at least that much on your power wire.

Its a 80 Amp fuse on amp I got a 100 amp fuse its a 1600 watt amp Mono and I will try that stuff thanks all. Anyone know where I can get a good set of a 1/0 Wire set for low price ?

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local hardware store should have some im sure.

* Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface
* Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )
* Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )
* DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )
* Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver

* One FULLY LOADED ~ 10" DC m2 XL
* Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box Tuned to 32hz. Single Chamber With Volume of 1.44618³ ft ; 1.13216³ ft After Displacement
* Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling
* MechMan 240a High Output Alternator

* KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable RCA Cables
* Upgraded Electrical With 1/0 KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable and 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable
* Five Exide Orbital ORB34M Marine 12 Volt Batteries
* PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery

My 2008 Chrysler 300 Limited - SuperCharged 3.5L V6 - UBL

My Old 2005 Ford Taurus - CarDomain - Vehicle Was Sold

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Yeah but I am looking for a better value the Local Hardware store here is ridecoulous. Like 100 bucks for the Amp kit for a 1000 watt amp with 4 gauge wire.

:unsure: dang, i can buy some copper ones here for like 2-4 bones per foot. Last time i bought some was when i did my big 3 upgrade way back when and it was like 3.15 a foot iirc.

Edited by SojiaRaggs9000

* Eclipse CD3200 with PAC SWI-CAN2 and SW-ECL2 Steering Wheel Controls Interface
* Pioneer D-Series Mids and Highs ( Fronts: TS-D1702C; Rears; TS-D1702R and Dash; TS-D1002R )
* Rockford Fosgate PBR300X4 ( Mids and Highs Amp )
* DC 3.5k with Dual Inputs; Custom Plexiglass Backing ( Sub Amp )
* Rockford Fosgate Balanced Line Driver

* One FULLY LOADED ~ 10" DC m2 XL
* Custom Built Carpeted Ported Box Tuned to 32hz. Single Chamber With Volume of 1.44618³ ft ; 1.13216³ ft After Displacement
* Custom Built Carpeted Trunk Wall with Added Fans for Amplifier Cooling
* MechMan 240a High Output Alternator

* KnuKonceptz Krystal Kable RCA Cables
* Upgraded Electrical With 1/0 KnuKonceptz Kolossus Fleks Kable and 1/0 Sky High Car Audio Cable
* Five Exide Orbital ORB34M Marine 12 Volt Batteries
* PowerMaster XS D3100 12 Volt Battery

My 2008 Chrysler 300 Limited - SuperCharged 3.5L V6 - UBL

My Old 2005 Ford Taurus - CarDomain - Vehicle Was Sold

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Check how your sub is hooked up also I've seen this happen when a sub was wired in a Series wrong

Its wired right its wire one wire to negative to the other Neg. then same for positive then speaker runs to positive on one side and Neg on the other to make it run at 1 ohm.

http://www.the12volt.com/caraudio/woofer_c...sp?Q=1&I=22

Wired like the top diagragm

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