soundzright Posted April 12, 2009 Report Share Posted April 12, 2009 Well that does not sound fund to test. Haha. Is the usual test to find a drain still connecting a volt meter to the negative terminal and then start pulling fuses? I have heard lots of different ways to look for electrical draws.Is there a somewhat easy but effective means for testing this sort of thing? Shawn specifically you can go right down the line with a dmm till you find it/ isolate it. My guess is it is low enough to not really requirer a high amp ampmeter.Personally this more or less sounds like a show/summer vehicle and it would be VERY easy for you to install small maintaining chargers on each cell. In any case I still would talk to Kinetik to see what they say. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
RamenNoodles Posted April 12, 2009 Report Share Posted April 12, 2009 Im not sure how many times this needs to be said but, GET THEM LOAD TESTED. ITS FREE AT AUTOZONE OR ADVANCED AUTO PARTS. TAKE THEM ALL IN AND YOU WONT HAVE TO KEEP WONDERING IF THEY ARE GOOD OR BAD. Quote Diablo Audio Technologies Fi Car Audio Ascendant Audio Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blowndakrt Posted April 12, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 12, 2009 Im not sure how many times this needs to be said but, GET THEM LOAD TESTED.ITS FREE AT AUTOZONE OR ADVANCED AUTO PARTS. TAKE THEM ALL IN AND YOU WONT HAVE TO KEEP WONDERING IF THEY ARE GOOD OR BAD. Don't they need to be charged first?? I wasn't aware you could load test a battery if it was under 10.2 volts. I was always told for the load test to be done properly, the battery needed to be charged to at least 10.2 volts. I am in the process of charging them now. I only have one charger so doing them one at a time. They are on a 2 amp trickle charge, so it might take a while to get them up to a charge. Once they are charged I will load test them. Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
soundzright Posted April 12, 2009 Report Share Posted April 12, 2009 Don't they need to be charged first?? I wasn't aware you could load test a battery if it was under 10.2 volts. I was always told for the load test to be done properly, the battery needed to be charged to at least 10.2 volts. I am in the process of charging them now. I only have one charger so doing them one at a time. They are on a 2 amp trickle charge, so it might take a while to get them up to a charge. Once they are charged I will load test them.Shawn I would see what kinetik says about charging before I charged them or load tested them.... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
scottiej Posted April 13, 2009 Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 Charge them up and load test as I described on termpro. If they accept charge and hold a load then there will be no need to call for warranty. If you do end up determining that they are bad and you do want to switch brands, you can do so without changing anything with the install. The XS Power D2700 will drop right in place where the HC2000's were. http://www.4xspower.com Quote XS POWER Batteries, Chargers & Accessories 888-4XS-POWER Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
pnf218 Posted April 13, 2009 Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 Charge them up and load test as I described on termpro. If they accept charge and hold a load then there will be no need to call for warranty. If you do end up determining that they are bad and you do want to switch brands, you can do so without changing anything with the install. The XS Power D2700 will drop right in place where the HC2000's were. http://www.4xspower.com Got any EGGS for this spam! Hit them with the trickle or try a 16v charger for a few till warm if there bad wont hurt and if they can be woke up it should do the trick. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blowndakrt Posted April 13, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 13, 2009 Hey Everybody. I spoke to Kinetik today. Very helpful company. I was really surprised with the time given and helfulness of that company. I did some more testing today before I called to be able to give them more accurate numbers and up to date info as to my current situation. Got a lot of info on things I will want to change with my current setup to prevent this from happening in the future. He also told me about different way to make some connections to help prevent additional issues that might arrise. They will be getting exchanged. So that is a huge relief on my stress level. I will also be ordering a Kinetik charger for the batteries to help ensure I have the proper method and a full charge from this point on. He took the time to explain alot of info and why things happen. Being a battery noob, it really helped explain why I had certain issues and really gave me a much firmer background on battery technology. We did determine that a higher ouput alternator or dual alternator setup should be in my very near future. So I am gonna be searching for information on that. I asked him if he would like me to load test them and he said that unless the batteries were resting above 10 v, the load test would show nothing of any value. He said for the most accurate load test to take place, the batteries should be at full charge. So for everyone that gave input and advice, Thank You. I am sure I will run into other issues with other things and it seems like this place has quite a few knowledgeable people in alot of different areas. So I plan to stick around and keep reading. I don't compete in any form with my car. I don't do SPL contests or shows, but I will try to update and show pics of my car as things get done. They are a constant work in progress. But I guess I don't have to tell you guys that. LOL. Thanks Shawn Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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