BJD3 Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 The reason you would want different Ohm loads is to maximize your amplifier's capabilities. If you have (2) Dual 2s for example, you could either wire to .5 ohms, 2 Ohms or 8 ohms (I think). If your amplifier is only stable down to two ohms, you definitely won't be able to wire down to .5 ohms. And if you wire to eight ohms, you may not be getting the wattage you need. But wiring to 2 may get you where you need to be. It's just analyzing what you need in a sub and buying the amplifier to match (or vice versa). Quote Anti Peel and Seal...lol You may be offended by the above. Don't take it personally, I'm just abrasive. 2002 Buick Park Avenue DC Level 4 M2 12 D2 Car Audio Bargain 1600.1 Eclipse CD3200 ~2 cubes @ 34 hz. Stinger Roadkill Expert Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
str8outtaneb Posted April 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 (edited) alright i think i get it... sh Edited April 30, 2009 by str8outtaneb Quote fuck the consequences ain't nothin to a boss Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
a_steezy Posted April 30, 2009 Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 so you want to run less ohms? no, you want to pick out what ohm load subs, for your amp. you can't just hook up any sub to any amp and get full power, you want to pick out what subs you want, then what amp you want, then go back and do the ohm loads. it depends on your amp for the most part, and you want them to match Quote '98 Dodge Durango 5.9L 5% front windows, 2.5% on all backs Alpine CDA-9883 Kicker ZX350.4 Kicker KS650's in all doors Kicker 1/0 hyperflex Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
str8outtaneb Posted April 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted April 30, 2009 so really the ohm loads doesn't matter except when you match amps to subs Quote fuck the consequences ain't nothin to a boss Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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