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Can someone help me? I have six switches. I want four of them to control the corners individually and the others will be, one for front, the other for the rear.

I can not for the life of me picture how to wire this. I guess I have been away from it for to long. Thanks for any advice, Dwight

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you will wire the 4 corners normally then for the front/back you have to have diodes in the wires or the switches have to have two independent outputs. If you don't use the right switch or diode isolate the wires you will have front back only... IE: if you hit the front left up then it will also activate the front up switch and the whole front of the vehicle will lift.

the back of the switch for the front/back switches will have two outputs on the top and two on the bottom with one input in the middle possition. one of the top leads will go to the left up valve and the other will go to the right up valve. The bottom ones will go to the front left and right dump valves. Kinda get where i am going. I will try to find a diagram cause it is hard to explain without pictures.

Edited by sully

2003 Ford F-150 Reg Cab layin body on 26's

2003 Tahoe 3/5 drop on 26's with a 408cid Supercharged engine.

2011 Camaro 2SS 2005 VW GTI Stage II ECU, CAI, 3" turbo back exhaust, FMIC, lowered 2" on some plastidipped 18's

2003 Hayabusa lowered, stretched, cams, nitrous and custom paint

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-tYdYN23FTgM:&tbnh=86&tbnw=112&prev=/images%3Fq%3D10%2Bswitch%2Bbox%2Bwiring%2Bdiagram&hl=en&usg=__fU6XvMbh1w4X1FU4yPHKBNxkhGM=&ei=tL4hSq6NBpHBsAaAz8WwBg&sa=X&oi=image_result&resnum=2&ct=image'>clicky

check this out, you can just remove the side to side, seesaw and pancake switches but it will get you headed in the right direction.

2003 Ford F-150 Reg Cab layin body on 26's

2003 Tahoe 3/5 drop on 26's with a 408cid Supercharged engine.

2011 Camaro 2SS 2005 VW GTI Stage II ECU, CAI, 3" turbo back exhaust, FMIC, lowered 2" on some plastidipped 18's

2003 Hayabusa lowered, stretched, cams, nitrous and custom paint

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it is a momentary switch. which means the positive is in the center of the switch. which ever way u push the switch put the wire for that goes on the oposite side. like if u push the switch up. u need to have the wire for the up silinoid on the bottom and visa versa for the other way, simple. i usually buy a switch box. but have fixed these problems before.

i dont know what this guy is talking about diods. maybe that is for juice. this is air ride im speaking of.

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if you don't have the right switches you will need to diode isolate the wires, if you have opened a 10 switch box before you would have noticed that the individual wheel switches have one output on the top and bottom of the switch, the side to side have two, the pancake has four. these switches already have the diodes built in so you will not need to isolate each wire. if you don't have access to these switches and are using a basic switch then if you don't isolate the wires it will not function properly.

B slaps yo mama, i have bagged about 20 vehicles and helped with many more, go ahead and wire one without isolating the wires and tell me how that goes for you, if it is the switch or a diode you achieve the same thing but you have to do it or it won't work.

2003 Ford F-150 Reg Cab layin body on 26's

2003 Tahoe 3/5 drop on 26's with a 408cid Supercharged engine.

2011 Camaro 2SS 2005 VW GTI Stage II ECU, CAI, 3" turbo back exhaust, FMIC, lowered 2" on some plastidipped 18's

2003 Hayabusa lowered, stretched, cams, nitrous and custom paint

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