siucsaluki11 Posted June 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 HAHA, i love my sig. Ive been toyin with a few box ideas, got a few that ive come up with, all around 7 cubes net tuned between 30-35 Hz, going to be 2 LVL 4 XL 15s either gettin around 2k each or splitting a 3500 Most recent box design, this one keeps me db drag legal i believe, only concern is having an 8" port that close to the hatch Quote woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port... YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cuseikan Posted June 22, 2009 Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 What kinda electrical do you need to do to run 3-4k RMS? I design boxes myself, ive designed one for subs and port back, one for subs up port back and one for subs and port up. I just dont know which to run. I dont wanna put the port too close to the tailgate, so i think i may run subs and port up. Any suggestions/opinions (car is listed in sig I have a memphis mcd4kw off of a nsb90 and a nsb125. With a "300"amp alt. But a mechman 250 will be better for daily. And my voltage while driving never drops below 13v. But I can only bump at full tilt for 2 heavy bass songs. Then after that my batts are drained, and i'm just running off the alt. So I back off and let my alt charge back up the batts. Get 2 or 3 of those C&D batts that are going up for sale and a HO alt and you will be ok. Just keep a eye on your voltage, and know when to back off. Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
siucsaluki11 Posted June 22, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2009 so far im leaning towards a 250-280A alt and 2 XS power D3100 batts. I have a feeling dual alt in a blazer would mean losing my AC, and i dont wanna do that, even though i almost never use it, its nice when the temp breaks 100 like it occasionally does. But ya, im thinkin 250-280A alt and 2 maybe 3 D3100 batts. I cant decide if i wanna run one 3500 on the pair or run a 2000-2200 on each one Quote woman..cant live with em...cant shoot em...guess were all fucked You might be a Redneck if you use your leftover gutters for a speaker box port... YOU JUST LOST THE GAMER.I.P. Blazer=========================Last setup was in the 141s on music (37hz) with 2 12s and 1kw in a 4dr blazer.2010 Mitsubishi Lancer DE2 12in Clarions (kept from blazer)HiFonics BRZ1700.1d (at 2 ohms BLOWN) [JBL GTS180X for subs currently 60wRMS x2ch!!!!!! This works for till i get the blown amp fixed] Alpine 4ch salvaged from blazer (currently near death)9887 peerless 7s in the doors and CDT tweeters ran active no speakers in the rearKintik HC1400 under the hood.metered once a while ago, dont remember it...was piss poor compared to the blazer, mid 130s i think....looking to replace subs and amp when i have money. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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