Haydog17 Posted June 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 I think you could do this all except the battery and subs for under $1000. Dang, I might have to convince my dad to let me do this. I mean heard that stock jbl system before and it sounds good. With this stuff though, its so much better made and I'm guessing it sounds a lot better too haha. Would the battery be necessary or would my stock battery be alright??? And how much does that battery roughly cost??? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haydog17 Posted June 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 And these are the subs I'm looking at http://cgi.ebay.com/2-ALPINE-SWS-1223D-12-...n%3D4%26ps%3D57 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haydog17 Posted June 23, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 23, 2009 (edited) *update* talked to my dad and this is what I said and happened. We could get an upgraded system in the car for 1500 dollars with a decent sound with speakers made out of cardboard. Or we could take that 1500 dollars and buy aftermarket equipment and have a stereo that sounds 3x better for almost the same price if not even a little cheaper and he started easing up to the idea. *sorry for the triple post* Edited June 23, 2009 by Haydog17 Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISO Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 (edited) Hey I was the guy asking about the jbl system than you showed the alpine speakers and such. You also suggested I get a new battery. I was just wondering, would a new battery be necessary? I'm getting a brand new car, haven't decided which one. But would the new battery be necessary for running 4-6 speakers, 4 tweeters and two 400-500 rms subs each. Just msg me back if it would be because I plan on getting these speakers *my dad is easing up to the idea*. I'm glad your dad is easing up on the idea. Ya man the battery is actually a really big deal. The type of after market batteries that alot of us use have a much faster recharge and discharge rate and that is something that is incredibly important when running subwoofer amplifiers. The subwoofer amplifier is the main amplifier in a system that is going to cause the most fluctuations to the electrical system and would be the amp that would cause any damage at all to your altenator, what the battery will do is everytime the bass hits and pulls current the aftermarket battery will release that current at the speed the amplifier will need, then it will be capable of filling back up or recharging alot quicker from your altenator which means alot less stress on your overall electrical system and less stress equalls less damage. The battery that I highly recommend is the Stinger SP1000 but its not cheap and I have been trying to keep you in some kind of budget. This battery is around $250 but it has proven its self to me in 2 different vehicles one of the vehicles being a 1994 Honda Accord with a Rockford Fosgate BD1000 amplifier (1000 watts at 2 ohm). Besides the recharge rate the other nice things about this battery was its compact size as these type of vehicles do not allow for much room in the engine compartment. That battery along with what is called the big 3 are vital electrical upgrades to allow current to flow much easyer there by causeing less stress to your electrical system and again less stress = less damage. To get you pointed in the rite direction let me show you one of the best online Stinger deallers out there and they are authorized by Stinger to sell online. The company is called Darvex and alot of us have been useing this company for along time and the owner Trail treats everyone that I have sent there with alot of respect and will also give SMD members a 5% discount on orders and if you have any problems he is quick to try and make anything rite. Trail is a very respectable guy and a great person to deal with. http://www.darvex.com/ The battery I recommend. http://www.darvex.com/SP1000/Stinger+1000+...ll+Battery.html As far as the Big 3 goes there should be a spot in our Electrical section that explains that fairly well and again that is a very important wirring theory that has proven itself to unbelievably usefull and this is the size wire I feal it should always be done in. http://www.darvex.com/0_gauge_power_wire.html Lastly I would like to recommend a book to you since you are new to all of this and its called Automotive Wiring and Electrical Systems and is written by a wonderful man named Tony Candela. This man has written a book that helps explain the electrical systems of vehicles and installation techniques in a way that anyone new to car audio and even experts can understand and or open our eyes to new techniques that us expererienced guys thought we might have be doing rite all these years that were actually wrong or close to the way it should be but gave us tips on hoe to make something better. http://search.barnesandnoble.com/Automotiv...32494877/?itm=1 Please give this book a try. I think you will be thankful for it. I need to go but will be back later if you have any questions. I am also going to copy and paste this in your JBL thread so if anyone else would like to jump in or want to complain or back me up will do as I think people have gotten away from trying to help others as much as we used to do and I don't always have time to be infront of a computer. I hope this helps you some and feel free to contact me any time. Jon S aka ISO To Snafu: I'm sorry that I haven't gotten you a review up yet about your book but I'll get it up and thank you again for writting it. Edited June 26, 2009 by ISO Quote Isobaric - Refers to the practice of coupling two drivers together to make them act as one. "Giving up doesn't always mean you are weak; sometimes it means that you are strong enough to let go." Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. The Destruction of a person builds character. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISO Posted June 26, 2009 Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 Haydog17 I haven't posted in your thread because I wasn't proud of the Alpine speakers I showed you and would like to find something better for you. If you power your speakers from the head unit I highly recommend something called a bass blocker if that head unit doesn't have a crossover built in and you can get those from Stinger also. If you order from Darvex I'm sure Trail would be more than happy to consult you or hit me up. Running late and must go. Quote Isobaric - Refers to the practice of coupling two drivers together to make them act as one. "Giving up doesn't always mean you are weak; sometimes it means that you are strong enough to let go." Insanity: doing the same thing over and over again and expecting different results. The Destruction of a person builds character. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Haydog17 Posted June 26, 2009 Author Report Share Posted June 26, 2009 Haydog17 I haven't posted in your thread because I wasn't proud of the Alpine speakers I showed you and would like to find something better for you.If you power your speakers from the head unit I highly recommend something called a bass blocker if that head unit doesn't have a crossover built in and you can get those from Stinger also. If you order from Darvex I'm sure Trail would be more than happy to consult you or hit me up. Running late and must go. Alright thanks for the advice man! If you could hit me up with a link to one of those I would appreciate because i have never heard of a bass blocker to be honest haha. *Yeah I'm a newbie to audio* Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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