Mrbubbles00482 Posted July 3, 2009 Report Share Posted July 3, 2009 Ok so I've been reading the T-line tutorial, and I've been interested for a while. My wagon comp car is put on hold, and I already have a SAE 1200D so why not buy some woofers for it? Two RE SE 10's is the plan. Soooo.... two 10's. 1130/fs of 26.6 = ~42.5 / 4 = 10.625 correct? So... two 10's (going by the guide a 10 is about 9") 9/2 = 4.5 (4.5 x 4.5 x 3.14 = 63.58) x 2 (2 10's) = 127.16 port area Sooo...I would need for a T-line for (2) 10's to be around 10.5 and 10.75 long, with a consistent port area of 127ish? I haven't the room I have to work with yet, but I'm sure it would be enough...I have a station wagon, and with the 3rd row seat folded down and flattened out all the way there is LOTS of room. Any comments? is my math right? anything I'm missing? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrbubbles00482 Posted July 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2009 Bump. Need some input on my calculations...come on guys. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zfrerichs Posted July 4, 2009 Report Share Posted July 4, 2009 math looks good I've had a good experience with choking the port a little I'd do 100 inchs as long as you have two inchs from bottom of motor to the port and you'll be fine Roseville, CA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
spl4life Posted July 4, 2009 Report Share Posted July 4, 2009 it looks like you did the calculations correct... jus remember to calculate for 45's too...i have personally built 2 tlines according to the tut.. and they are awesome... its gna be a pretty big box... your gona have a pretty wide port area so remember to brace... the first tline i made was with some old pioneer 10s only at 150w rms... yes i only used .5 inch plywood with no braces other then 45s but with only 150w i didnt think it wud be a problem... but i was wrong... and it was flexing real bad... ohh and remember measure twice cut once... gud luck with your T-line im sure your gona love it... My first truck... My first Real build... *Update 8/9/10 DC Power 270xp Alt is In!!!* 1997 Toyota T-100 DC Level 5 18" in a T-line Everybody wants their system to be.... 1. Cheap 2. Reliable 3. Loud ...you can only pick two. micahmye hertz pack Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrbubbles00482 Posted July 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2009 math looks good I've had a good experience with choking the port a little I'd do 100 inchs as long as you have two inchs from bottom of motor to the port and you'll be fine That shouldn't be a problem, space really isn't an issue I don't think...even though I haven't gotten exact dimensions of the back end, but I could fit 4 15's with space to spare keeping the second row seat and just folding down the 3rd. it looks like you did the calculations correct... jus remember to calculate for 45's too...i have personally built 2 tlines according to the tut.. and they are awesome... its gna be a pretty big box... your gona have a pretty wide port area so remember to brace... the first tline i made was with some old pioneer 10s only at 150w rms... yes i only used .5 inch plywood with no braces other then 45s but with only 150w i didnt think it wud be a problem... but i was wrong... and it was flexing real bad... ohh and remember measure twice cut once... gud luck with your T-line im sure your gona love it... Ya it is going to be a pretty big box. Bracing and 45's shouldn't be a problem. ACTUALLY I want to do a kurfed T-line...would be a first for both, kurf cuts and a T-line lol. BUT I will most likely just do the Tline first with resined 45's and bracing to get use to it. I need to practice Kurfs and calculating where to cut them first the more I think about it...if I fuck up I could waste A LOT of MDF =/ I'll start planning the box tomorrow, maybe even building depending on what happens at work tomorrow. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
zfrerichs Posted July 4, 2009 Report Share Posted July 4, 2009 I was refering to mounting depth not airspace bit it's all good bro Roseville, CA Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Mrbubbles00482 Posted July 4, 2009 Author Report Share Posted July 4, 2009 I was referring to the mounting depth also lol. Mounting depth shouldn't be a problem and neither should air space. Thanks for the help guys! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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