brewer_brewer Posted July 9, 2009 Report Posted July 9, 2009 Also don't foget that your port aera is figured by the area of the sub/s your putting in the box. This is measured by the equation pi x radius x radius. My Bl had a radius of around 5" (the radius is measured from the center of the surround to the center of the dustcap. For me this came out to 78.5 sq. in. but i just rounded it to 78 sq. in. (6X13). Like i originally said, i think a T-Line is a lot easier to build than ported box. Just need the space. Haha. this is where i learned how to build them. gets kind of difficult to understand in some parts just because i don't know what some of the terms mean but it gives the basic information and idea behind them. www.killahertz-acoustics.co.uk/TLdesign.doc REFS http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/itrader.php?u=2026 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/44535-official-brewer-brewer-feedback/page__p__625998__hl__brewer__fromsearch__1entry625998 "you're not allowing natural selection to work, you're like the guy that invented the seatbelt"
Miles Posted July 10, 2009 Author Report Posted July 10, 2009 this is where i learned how to build them. gets kind of difficult to understand in some parts just because i don't know what some of the terms mean but it gives the basic information and idea behind them. www.killahertz-acoustics.co.uk/TLdesign.doc Thanks for the comments guys.. And when i get back to town monday i'll try to catch this kid to get some videos.. I really amazed by the flex this thing can do with 300 watts and a Fi BL. haha. And i really like the way this box came together. Just something new i wanted to try out and i roped a kid into buying the box. Lol. But this setup is a ton louder than his 2 kicker CVR 12's in a bandpass box running off half the watts he was running the kickers at.. Next on my list of boxes to make is either a 6th order bandpass, or a folded horn..
HondaxPower Posted July 16, 2009 Report Posted July 16, 2009 can't wait to see this thing! in the vid Like Slowed Songs? Check out Mine and Bassaddict's Slowed Songs Thread
Miles Posted July 16, 2009 Author Report Posted July 16, 2009 And keep in mind this is only 300 WATTS on a Fi Bl WATCH IN HD
Deuces D.A.K. Posted July 16, 2009 Report Posted July 16, 2009 where did you get the design for your t-line? i'm not sure how to build those and would love to know how - even though the calculations seem pretty tough. ha i finally got tuning ports down after the build that i'm constructing right now....but i feel like a t-line would definitely give me a couple db's. i'm low as hell on funds, and i'm only pushin a 10" HX2 right now at 35hz, but it definitely gets the job done for the size and the power i've got for it. needless to say i wanna learn t-lines to improve what i've got! Currently Under Construction - hoping to be done by August: JVC KD-SH55 Head Unit Rockford Fosgate 10" HX2 @ 35Hz Hifonics Zeus ZXi6.5C (Mids/Highs) Hifonics TXi4008 (amp for mids/highs) Hifonics BXi610 (amp for sub) KnuKonceptz Kolossus Flex 4 gauge - power/ground 50^2ft. FatMat sound deadener Big 3 - KnuKonceptz 4 gauge 1 Farad Powersonic Cap Yellow Top Optima 150A ANL Fuse
Miles Posted July 16, 2009 Author Report Posted July 16, 2009 where did you get the design for your t-line? i'm not sure how to build those and would love to know how - even though the calculations seem pretty tough. ha i finally got tuning ports down after the build that i'm constructing right now....but i feel like a t-line would definitely give me a couple db's. i'm low as hell on funds, and i'm only pushin a 10" HX2 right now at 35hz, but it definitely gets the job done for the size and the power i've got for it. needless to say i wanna learn t-lines to improve what i've got! I'm not gonna say you'll gain any spl, but a t-line will make you hit in all frequencies very well, and you will be able to use half the power you are now (whatever that is) to get just as loud. The main focus of a t-line is to make the perfect, most efficient box for your sub. And here it goes.. (this should be stickied cuz i haven't found a more simple way to explain this) - Take the Fs of your sub (in this case a D1 Bl has an Fs of 35.2 hz) - Take the speed of sound (1130 ft/sec) and divide that by your Fs - Then take the number you get there and divide that by 4... This will get you the length of your port, or "line" - AFter that, find the surface arear of your speaker/s you'll be puttin in the box - Find the radius of your speaker/s.. MEASURE FROM THE MIDDLE OF SURROUND TO THE MIDDLE OF THE DUSTCAP (my 12" Bl had a radius of 5.125 inches) - Use the equation pi x radius x radius to find a number.. THIS will be your port area.. With this information you'll have your port length and how big your port needs to be. Box dimensions are up to you and will kind of depend on the numbers you found with the equations/steps i gave you..
amazinblazin10 Posted July 16, 2009 Report Posted July 16, 2009 ahh a t-line build... cut some square pieces and use them as spaces for you can un-invert your sub.. i think when you start pushing 700-900 watts your going to notice a different in sound since a regular t-line is more for low powered systems but you can always tweak the design to make it louder.. looks like a really nice. clean build though.. would like to see vids sometime 1997 Dodge Ram Van 2500 Big III addition with 1/0 awg wiring all throughout Lightning Audio Strike S4.1000.1D Jenson XA2250 2 - 12" Mtx Jackhammers JH55 3ft cubed box sealed under the rear bench seat Pioneer DEH-P6000UB head unit MB Quart FWA 160 components up front
Miles Posted July 16, 2009 Author Report Posted July 16, 2009 Look up about 3 posts and you'll see a link to a vid.. haha..
Deuces D.A.K. Posted July 16, 2009 Report Posted July 16, 2009 I'm not gonna say you'll gain any spl, but a t-line will make you hit in all frequencies very well, and you will be able to use half the power you are now (whatever that is) to get just as loud. The main focus of a t-line is to make the perfect, most efficient box for your sub. And here it goes.. (this should be stickied cuz i haven't found a more simple way to explain this) - Take the Fs of your sub (in this case a D1 Bl has an Fs of 35.2 hz) - Take the speed of sound (1130 ft/sec) and divide that by your Fs - Then take the number you get there and divide that by 4... This will get you the length of your port, or "line" - AFter that, find the surface arear of your speaker/s you'll be puttin in the box - Find the radius of your speaker/s.. MEASURE FROM THE MIDDLE OF SURROUND TO THE MIDDLE OF THE DUSTCAP (my 12" Bl had a radius of 5.125 inches) - Use the equation pi x radius x radius to find a number.. THIS will be your port area.. With this information you'll have your port length and how big your port needs to be. Box dimensions are up to you and will kind of depend on the numbers you found with the equations/steps i gave you.. duuuuuuuude thank you times ten ha i've been lookin everywhere to get the most simple equation, and your explanation is by far the most simple - thanks man!! if I get around to building that box (after my build i'm doin now finally gets completed that is ha!) - i will definitely throw some props your way! much appreciated miles Currently Under Construction - hoping to be done by August: JVC KD-SH55 Head Unit Rockford Fosgate 10" HX2 @ 35Hz Hifonics Zeus ZXi6.5C (Mids/Highs) Hifonics TXi4008 (amp for mids/highs) Hifonics BXi610 (amp for sub) KnuKonceptz Kolossus Flex 4 gauge - power/ground 50^2ft. FatMat sound deadener Big 3 - KnuKonceptz 4 gauge 1 Farad Powersonic Cap Yellow Top Optima 150A ANL Fuse
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