fox_racin4 Posted August 14, 2009 Report Share Posted August 14, 2009 how woul di go about flaring pvc for a port? 1998 gmc extd cab 12 crossfire C710s 4 SAZ-4500s 3 Singer 400A altsbuncha mids/highs Team Asshole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brewer_brewer Posted August 14, 2009 Report Share Posted August 14, 2009 (edited) metal bowl or similar. anything that is bigger than the pvc itself and will force the pvc to flare. it needs to have a curve to it though. you can use a heat gun or torch. put the pvc pipe down onto the bowl (or whatever you are using) heat the pipe up SLOWLY. if you heat it up too much or get it too hot, it will crack, turn brown, bubble and will not hold the flare. as you are heating it up, push it onto the bowl (don't force it, just push a little). it will start to flare out and once you have it to the flare that you want you have to hold it on the bowl until it COOLS. i usually pour ice water on it or run a water hose over it for a minute or so until it cools down completely. 1. take your time. 2. don't get it too hot. 3. hold the flare until it has cold again. Edited August 14, 2009 by brewer_brewer REFS http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/itrader.php?u=2026 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/44535-official-brewer-brewer-feedback/page__p__625998__hl__brewer__fromsearch__1entry625998 "you're not allowing natural selection to work, you're like the guy that invented the seatbelt" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
skittlesRgood Posted August 14, 2009 Report Share Posted August 14, 2009 search around the net you can find some good tutorials. basicaly you have to make a mold out of wood. then push the pvc onto the mold while heating the pvc so that it forms the flare. If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
B4SSB0Y Posted August 14, 2009 Report Share Posted August 14, 2009 Heres a link for you, looks pretty useful but I havent tried it yet. http://www.subwoofer-builder.com/flares-25mm.htm Car - 99 Neon Sport Batt - 1 Redtop up front On 200A Excessive Amperage alt Sub - 2 12" Kicker L7's in ~2 cuft @ 36hz each on a Xtant X1001 @ 1 ohm Front Highs/Mids - JVC CS-FS6 and Infinity 6022i on Xtant A2002 Rear Highs/Mids - None HU - Pioneer DEH-P8600MP 1/0 wire ran thru entire car aswell as big3 DB - 144.5 @ Dash. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brewer_brewer Posted August 14, 2009 Report Share Posted August 14, 2009 i use a bowl like this. http://1.bp.blogspot.com/_MkCt7isAA1c/SIQG...metal+bowl.jpeg REFS http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/itrader.php?u=2026 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/44535-official-brewer-brewer-feedback/page__p__625998__hl__brewer__fromsearch__1entry625998 "you're not allowing natural selection to work, you're like the guy that invented the seatbelt" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fox_racin4 Posted August 14, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 14, 2009 i never even tought of using a bowl... lol maming the mold looks like to much work to me lol 1998 gmc extd cab 12 crossfire C710s 4 SAZ-4500s 3 Singer 400A altsbuncha mids/highs Team Asshole Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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