Ron36

Pretty sure Sundown meant to not turn the Amp gain up a lot , I would hook up at 1 Ohm and start with the gain turned down all the way and see if they get smelly. Maybe run these subs for a year then you can always upgrade to the SA’s , that amp is perfect for them.

Peak power is when the bass hits that perfect note on your subs from the amp , you don’t set up for it , it kinda just happens. You have to have good voltage. Peak is just what happens on the right conditions. RMS is all you need to worry about .

I’ve ran sealed boxes for years , always build my own. I always call the manufacturer and tell them what I’m working on and get there advice . I’ve called Sundown, Skar and DD all were very happy to help and point me in the right direction even was told by Sundown to add polyfill and a bigger amp to compensate for small box. Your drive yourself crazy trying to figure it out when they know what the subs like.

Korean built amps have been the best for awhile now , Sundown Salt , Skar SK, American Bass VFL, DD, there’s more , right now the Brazilian Amp thing is hot , not a big fan but can work for some people. I’ve tried it but you need to really know what your doing to tune them.

I would choose B2 over any basic over the counter manufacture like Kicker , JL or whatever you can buy from Walmart , They are from Denmark so not very popular but good quality, still a lot of other options too, Skar, Sundown, DD , Rockford ,DC, Incriminator and many more if it’s just white you want a lot of marine amps are white and are the same.

Where you from my VFL is just laying around now , 2200 at 1ohm way underrated , at .5 would be 5k easy on good electrical.

I ran an American Bass VFL at .6 for 3yrs and it loved it but if your just wondering it takes a lot of electrical. At .6 I had a 350AMP ALT and 6 batteries, 4 runs of 0 gauge from front to rear batteries it’s not as easy as it sounds it probably cheaper to run a bigger amp at 1ohm.

I don’t want any money but that piece looks like it goes with the air vent that’s in there rear quarter panel. The vent would be on the body and they normally vent out behind the bumper cover , that flap can help keep debris and water out. They are there to depressurize the cabin.

So I’m going to be building a box under seat design and my options are 2 Sundown SD-3 10’s or 4 Skar VD -8’s , both will fit in the same SEALED box and ran off a Skar RP1200.1 , I have the Sundown subs already is it even worth it to think about the 4 Skars or will it pretty much sound the same. In my head 4 subs says louder but there smaller and same power. The Amp can be changed it’s not a big deal it’s what I have laying around.

There’s no way you get good SPL on an electric car and get 300 miles plus per charger, that’s the real answer, these cars are tested for years on stock electrical and daily driving so there’s no real answer but just charging your phone and driving your electric car kills the battery faster I’m sure running 3K or more will put you at 50-100 miles per charge. I work on Tesla’s and the biggest complaint is the battery life and these people are running stock , we tell them to put it nonsport mode and drive it slower , these cars are fast and they drive them like mustangs because there awesome to drive and if you add a system your battery is done . These electric cars are really nice but I’m not sold till 1 thousand miles per charge so I’ll stick to gas’s for now.

You should have multiple runs of 0 gauge to that through multiple batteries at .5 ohms, I ran a American Bass 2200K amp at .6 ohms , had 250Amp ALT plus 6 Batteries , plus 3 runs of 0 gauge wire to the batteries in the rear and dual inputs to the Amp. Basic electrical is when resistance goes down amps go up , your gonna melt wire or start a fire . You should have 3-4 runs of 0 gauge.

Keep the Skar you won’t even hear a difference unless you add another sub, and that amp is pretty much the same as the sub.

I work on Tesla’s and besides the price they are awesome to drive but the biggest complaint is they list 300-400 miles per charge but because they are so fast and fun to drive you average about 120-180 per charge . These things are fast , I’m not sold on electric cars till I see 1k miles per charge and between 25-35k in price for base model. For me I always pictured electric cars with a motor on each wheel like on the back of the hub so no axles needed and no wiring all fly by wire , but I think we are pretty far from that a lot of stuff is fly by wire now but no enough still to many wires .

This is what I got laying around.

Great topic , you should also include JL Loc 22 and the LC2I more name brand line outputs . I get your selling yours but would be nice to know what I’ve been running for years.