Ron36

Sorry I don’t have the answer never been tested on this site but 2 runs of 4gauge should be better or equal to 1 0gauge. Would love to see a voltage drop test from Steve or Big D Wiz on this . Keep this post alive and maybe we get a YouTube test.

Not trying to be a dick but there’s 0 JL builds on this site for a reason , I’d run 3 Pyles for every 1 JL and save money just to sound the same.

All I’m gonna say is FUCK JL , Over priced shit , they can handle rated power and not 1 watt more Sundown can handle 500 over rated all day with good electrical.

Probably should go marine grade subs if open top.

Yes , sub will unload and almost no sound will come out like running free air. Should hear mechanical noise from sub bottoming out . Subs are designed for specific amounts of pressure to reach there peaks and when to much pressure like a small box or not enough pressure oversized box (to much port) sub will unload. That’s why each sub has specs , but when running SPL got to try every square inch of port to gain numbers it’s a battle . There’s a fine line between box , power and space to get your goal, every car is different. Most SPL guys have changeable ports .

Best 8’s you can buy but Sundown , DC , Gatley Audio, also make great subs.

I’m not a fan of Kicker not trying to rip peoples choices , if you keep having the same issue with same box same subs that box is the problem, I don’t know the specs they need but you need the right built box for the subs and that means it has to be built. I called Sundown for my 3-10’s box and they were more then happy to help me out . Those subs are rated at 600RMS and because of the box and my good electrical they had 1K to each sub for 3yrs and never blew. Ended up selling to my friend and he still has them. Clean power and the right box for the subs they last along time. Also I think brand can help. I’ve built many boxes for people with no space never had issues but got to build the box . Last 2 boxes were 2 Sundown SD3 - 10’s and 3 DD shallow 10’s for me.

Had to go sealed but did build one for 2 -10’s ported.

I did 3 -10’s under seat build , shit slammed, I don’t think your electrical is good enough. 3,300 watts on stock ALT plus whatever is running your mids . I don’t see anything about batteries not battery. I ran about 4500watts with mids and had 250amp ALT and 6 batteries to hold voltage.

Never ran those but I have run Skar VD, DD slim line and Sundown SD-3’s , would recommend all 3 in a sealed box. If that helps at all.

I miss AA Subs , always wanted some but now there gone, built very well and can handle almost double power .

Nice to see you back building

It’s all about your vehicle and airspace to do 150’s , more science then just throwing power at something, it all needs to hit hard and breath at the right times. People doing 140’s all day with 8’s on 1200 watts. It’s always the box.

I ran 3 Sundown SA-10’s rated at 600RMS at 3K but my electrical was good 260AMP ALT and 6 batteries, Subs took it for 5 years never any issues, Subs still pounding now my buddy has them , It’s all about your electrical only about a third of the people on here understand that clean power won’t blow your subs. When your voltage goes down current goes up and current causes heat and distortion which makes subs and Amps smoke. That’s the number 1 thing to know for all electrical.

I can’t bitch cause I had a 2018 F 150 and I was offered more then enough to pay my house off so to me it was a no brainer , my beater is a 2003 Ford Escape with 205k , but it’s gets old driving a turd . I’ll get it probably 2023. Already gonna pay cash for it too for waiting so long.