Hostility Posted September 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 on 1/0 wire, use a 250-300 amp fuse. cool i already have 300amp in there Quote 99 s10 4.3L Big 3 220amp alt Odyssey 1500 Odyssey 2150 Northstar NSB 75 Sundown Audio 3500D Sundown Audio 125.2 3 Sundown Audio SA-12's Alpine H/U RF Power Comp set 6.5" RF 3 sixty line driver 5.25 cubes @ 31hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shake0707 Posted September 2, 2009 Report Share Posted September 2, 2009 here is my rant about what i know.from what i understand, the fuses between the front and rear batt are to protect from shorts. for example, if there is a bare piece of metal on the ground and it cuts your run between the batts, the fuses will protect your batts from shorting out and exploding/damaging the batt,amp,equip, etc... thats the reason you have to have one before each batt. if the short happens in the middle of the wire, then both batts will be affected and both need to be protected. as for the fuse before the amps, if the amps have fuses in them, then you dont "need" to add an extra fuse cause the amps already have that protection necessary. if the amp doesnt have any fuses, then it is recommended to protect your equip. when you have both batts connected, your music should only be taking power from the rear batt. if you have your music on and you connect a dmm to the front batt and see that the voltage drops, then you know that it is taking from the front and the back batt isnt sufficient to keep up with the demands. thats the reason why people always say to put the biggest batt in the back (so it doesnt affect the front batt) and as for grounding the amp to the back batt, its ok to do so. and if possible, do a run of 0/1 neg from front to back batt and connect the amp to the back batt. it will give the back batt and amp better connectivity. if you cant do the extra run, then just ground the rear batt cleanly and connect the amp to the batt. you dont want to be drilling alot of holes to the frame of your car.. if anything is wrong, please correct me for i am learning to. kthanksbye edit: ^ lawls. i like that diagram Dont mean to thread jack, but would I still be able to wire it like this if im using a duramax batt up front and an optima batt in the back? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swat281 Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 batt 1---Fuse-------------short----------------------batt 2.......blows^.................................Makes a fire^.... batt1---Fuse----------------short--------------Fuse---batt 2 .......blows^...........................................blows^... ---------------------Safer^^^ but y would it blow?? Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaMSaMMiCH Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 batt 1---Fuse-------------short----------------------batt 2.......blows^.................................Makes a fire^.... batt1---Fuse----------------short--------------Fuse---batt 2 .......blows^...........................................blows^... ---------------------Safer^^^ but y would it blow?? short will make it blow Quote CAUTION! POOR INSTALLATION MAY SHORT BOTH YOUR SYSTEM AND WALLET Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swat281 Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 short will make it blow but how could a short even be caused... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marlo Stanfield Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 Dont mean to thread jack, but would I still be able to wire it like this if im using a duramax batt up front and an optima batt in the back? Yes sir, as stated before though you could use the isolator also if u just want the opitma for the system end of thing and the duramax just for starting duties/etc. Quote 1998 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer... New setup, old ride... QX56 is staying stock til I get loud... It's only getting walled off if I don't meet my goal @ SBN. Pioneer AVIC-N2 (12) 12" RE SXs old model.... (3) AB VFL 500.1 @ 1ohm each Dual 300amp Ohio Gen alts.... (10) Northstar NSB-125s 26ft3 @ 33hz w/ a ton of port area 156.5 @ 40hz @ dash, Db Drag style / 153.2 Bassrace Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kl0wn Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 but how could a short even be caused... here is my rant about what i know.from what i understand, the fuses between the front and rear batt are to protect from shorts. for example, if there is a bare piece of metal on the ground and it cuts your run between the batts, the fuses will protect your batts from shorting out and exploding/damaging the batt,amp,equip, etc... Quote 06 Mini Cooper S Sundown, SoundQubed Cadence, XS Power 151s Sealed 155s Outlaw Windshield @ 37hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marlo Stanfield Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 but how could a short even be caused... One of a bunch of things... You could run something over and it cuts into the wire or a certain section may be near a hot(temp wise) component in your vehicle and burn through the wire. Literally could keep coming up with things that may cause them. It's worth the extra $10 to fuse the wire and save your equipment/vehicle. Quote 1998 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer... New setup, old ride... QX56 is staying stock til I get loud... It's only getting walled off if I don't meet my goal @ SBN. Pioneer AVIC-N2 (12) 12" RE SXs old model.... (3) AB VFL 500.1 @ 1ohm each Dual 300amp Ohio Gen alts.... (10) Northstar NSB-125s 26ft3 @ 33hz w/ a ton of port area 156.5 @ 40hz @ dash, Db Drag style / 153.2 Bassrace Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
swat281 Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 One of a bunch of things... You could run something over and it cuts into the wire or a certain section may be near a hot(temp wise) component in your vehicle and burn through the wire. Literally could keep coming up with things that may cause them. It's worth the extra $10 to fuse the wire and save your equipment/vehicle. okay...... but why would u run it threw somthing sharp or somthing that hot that can actually melt o ga. wire i mean thats some thick ass rubber... Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
HaMSaMMiCH Posted October 7, 2009 Report Share Posted October 7, 2009 okay...... but why would u run it threw somthing sharp or somthing that hot that can actually melt o ga. wire i mean thats some thick ass rubber... If your 0 gauge has really thick shielding its probably not real 0 gauge. Many cheap/pawn shop type wire uses foreign standards and hide the fact that they don't have a thick enough core by using a thick shielding to make it look the same size. Any number of things could cause a short in a wire in your car. Think of it this way. If your car costs $10,000 and you have $2,000 in stereo equipment you could wind up spending $20 for fuses at each battery, or $12,000 replacing everything when your car burns down. You would think that no one would run their wire through metal without a grommet, or past something hot in the engine compartment, but a majority of DIYers have no idea what they are doing. Even if you do run the wire properly, why would you want to risk your whole car to save money on a couple fuses? There is a reason EVERY amplifier manual tells you to make sure there is a fuse within 18 inches of every battery. Quote CAUTION! POOR INSTALLATION MAY SHORT BOTH YOUR SYSTEM AND WALLET Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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