Marlo Stanfield

Now that's what I'm talking bout, this is why I said Pipo's truck was one of my favorites. Mick's van is absolutely insane and he is holding onto the crown as being IMO the best 59.9 bassracer in the world.

For a recone he won't need CA glue, Solo-Xs don't work like that, they have the quick chance SPAIRs or whatever they're called.

Just buy D4s and wire them to a 1ohm final load. I've seen them daily take around 1500w without issues as long as the gains are set accordingly and it's in the right enclosure.

Pipo's ride is pretty insane and G-Monk's old 24 15s just destroyed his van when he had it.

Post pics of damage please, it's hard to make an accurate assessment without a picture.. Just check ebay for recone kits, they are likely the cheapest you'll find.

Awesome amp but generally hard to find.. Would be the best choice in this price range IMO, if you can find one used. New they were a hell of a lot more than 400. IMO this is the best BNIB amp in this power/price range. Would be the route I'd go if buying new.

DJs truck was absolutely insane, it's too bad that I couldn't bring my Expo up to SBN but I had a great time none the less. Expo was fine but my Infiniti couldn't get fixed in time, funny thing was I was actually considering trying to tow my 5000lb+ Expo with my M6 lol.

D2 coils?? If that's the case then I'd just run a single sub @ 1ohm and in the proper box shouldn't have any issue doing a 140+. SXs are great subs and can do a lot off of like 1k or so per woofer.

For the price those Quantum subs are actually pretty good and do get loud. Not the greatest SQ but they are damn good woofers at that price. Can't comment about the cadence because I've never ran those particular ones.

Can't believe no one asked yet - What meter??

What kind of 150 do u wanna hit?? The easiest for the most part is mic in the kick with door open, car on and using tones.. Most difficult(there is some dispute about headrest testing) is usually TL @ dash, all doors/windows closed, car off and on music. There is a huge difference between the listed ways of metering.

It really doesn't matter to me in the least bit that RF isn't there.. No real new products I'm interested in or RF vehicles I'm dying to hear.

Regardless of what it is, everyone needs some support from time to time and he'll be in my prayers.

Juicy Lucy w/ cheddar over any burger on the planet... To all that don't know what it is, look it up and make it yourself because it's fucking incredible.

Just build the enclosure accordingly to maximize the BTLs output.. Basically build an enclosure on the larger side of the recommended specs, so that the subs will handle the power more efficiently. Also make sure that you have the proper electrical upgrades for that amp.

Everyone in this thread needs to watch Michael Moore's movie Sicko.

Do u have measurements of the trunk?? If you don't have a minimum of 20-25ft3 just off the raw measurements then you don't have a shot to properly do 4 15s.

They'll both hit exactly 137 dbs on the boom stick(which btw is the most accurate meter on the market), so just get both so u can do 274dbs.

I really hope the score in your sig isn't true(143.9) because with 4 15s walled + 4k, I'd be pretty damn disappointed if that's the case. Sorry for thread jacking but it just sorta shocked me when I saw that. To the OP - What vehicle do u drive?? Do u have any idea how much airspace is needed for 4 15s?? There are very few trunk cars I can think of that can do 4 15s in trunk properly, just on the airspace alone. If you have the proper airspace and glass out the entire trunk to get every single bit of space, maybe it's do able. Why not just rip out the back seats and wall it off??

My Yankees will repeat and I can't see them playing anyone else in the World Series besides the Phils or Rockies... Baseball season starting is my favorite part of going home to NYC for vacation, there is nothing like seeing a game @ Yankee stadium.

What is your total budget for the build?? Running subs like these require having plenty of power to bring them to their potential. If you don't have the proper electrical upgrades to back up that power, then it's all useless. So if you're planning on running a pair of BTLs I'd look into at least 5k daily for the pair and a pretty stout electrical to back it up(HO alt, a few large batts, and a good amount of 1/0 wiring). That just covers the bass side of things, now if you want to actually have some vocals also then you'll need to look into some mids/highs plus the amps to go along with them.

Ports seem wayy to small for 4ft3 per side and you will likely run into some cancellation with the subs firing like that. Also 2ft3 per 15 ported is extremely small for nearly any 15 I can think of. With that space you'd likely have much better success running 12s instead of horribly choking 15s. What woofers?? and how much power per??

The 1508s according to the OP are way out of his price range... I can't see why you'd want to recone a $50 or less woofer like an RE8, when buying a new one will be almost the same price and likely less of a hassle.

How much power are u running?? Why did u design the enclosure to be nearly 10ft3 after displacement?? The port area for this particular design isn't even close to where it needs/suppose to be. You only currently have 70in^2 of port area and the box calc clearly states that you should be in the range of 119-158^2. This box besides only the tuning seems to just be doomed to fail in every aspect. I'd suggest that you start over after doing a little more research into what size enclosures an 18" BTL likes.

If you're gonna go that route then might as well get the SS... If that's the same engine from the Cobalt SS(can't see it being any different) then it should be a pretty quick ride. Does it have the same no lift shifting feature that the cobalt does??