Hostility Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 i have a pc1500 odyssey under the hood, and just got a pc2150 odyssey. i have 1 run of 1/0 going from batt up front to amp, i was thinking of taking that off the amp, and hooking it onto the 2150 in the back, then make a run from the 2150 to the amp. now, do i need an isolator or something in there or will i be fine just like that? Quote 99 s10 4.3L Big 3 220amp alt Odyssey 1500 Odyssey 2150 Northstar NSB 75 Sundown Audio 3500D Sundown Audio 125.2 3 Sundown Audio SA-12's Alpine H/U RF Power Comp set 6.5" RF 3 sixty line driver 5.25 cubes @ 31hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
splzx3 Posted August 31, 2009 Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 front bat-(fuse 300 amp)----------(fuse 300 amp)------rear bat---(fuse 4 amp wut size it needs)------amp Quote ________________________________________________________________________ deepsilencer, on 22 Aug 2011 - 17:32, said: splzx3, on 22 Aug 2011 - 17:27, said: i had my fun on one of his videos...till he blocked me then i got my mother into it lol after her he closed the comments xD lol your mom is a G! WTF, I never thought I'd have a conversation about cross dressers and trans-genders on a car audio forum. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hostility Posted August 31, 2009 Author Report Share Posted August 31, 2009 front bat-(fuse 300 amp)----------(fuse 300 amp)------rear bat---(fuse 4 amp wut size it needs)------amp well yea thats what i was going to do. but ive been reading that you need an isolator in between so 1 battery doesn't drain from the other?? Quote 99 s10 4.3L Big 3 220amp alt Odyssey 1500 Odyssey 2150 Northstar NSB 75 Sundown Audio 3500D Sundown Audio 125.2 3 Sundown Audio SA-12's Alpine H/U RF Power Comp set 6.5" RF 3 sixty line driver 5.25 cubes @ 31hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
thegreat22 Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 well yea thats what i was going to do. but ive been reading that you need an isolator in between so 1 battery doesn't drain from the other?? I had the same question Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enemyofsilence Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 if you want to keep your audio running while the car is off, then use an isolator. that way you dont use your front batt. other than that, you dont need an isolator. i have 3 batts and no isolator with zero problems. just remember to fuse right before each battery and you should be good to go. Quote Team Bass-Hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tacomabanga1986 Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 ive always wondered about the fuseing at the rear battery from front battery, how is that fuse suspost blow?, or does it protect power goin from rear battery to front, n then the fuse up front goin to rear protect that run? and i cant fuse at amps cause my wire lingth is less than about 12-10'' so theres no way of doin so anyways i wouldn't run an isolator due to only a 200max input n output so runnin a higher amp battery ur not gettin its full potential and when u got a 2 or so battery setup is ur system runnin off rear battery(s) or both front n rear? but ied just run wire from front battery pos to fuse, then fuse to rear battery pos, n then to amp, fuse if u want to but i dnt, and u'll be fine and is it ok to wire amp neg's to rear battery neg n then ground to one spot or spread out the grounds? ive heard ur susposto ground amps diff to battery but im not to sure how correct that is from doin this stuff n playin around with audio in general for a lil over 10years ive seen alot of stuff but i wished i could have found this site first, now i kno the do's n dont's of car audio Quote here's a link to my system 99 toyota tacoma , 2 mtx 8000 1504's in a sealed downfire , 1000w memphis amp here's a link to my other system my 90 geo prizm test car heres a thread i got of new songs u can dl that are legal = Some Good Bangage/you Can Dl These Free And Legit Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
fritosaregood Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 ive always wondered about the fuseing at the rear battery from front battery, how is that fuse suspost blow?, or does it protect power goin from rear battery to front, n then the fuse up front goin to rear protect that run? batt 1---Fuse-------------short----------------------batt 2 .......blows^.................................Makes a fire^.... batt1---Fuse----------------short--------------Fuse---batt 2 .......blows^...........................................blows^... ---------------------Safer^^^ Quote seller feedback: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=61719 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/ind...showtopic=68281 build log: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/index.php?showtopic=44800 Gf's build: http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/54346-kickergirls-camaro-new-box-pg-5/#entry753970 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
enemyofsilence Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 (edited) here is my rant about what i know. from what i understand, the fuses between the front and rear batt are to protect from shorts. for example, if there is a bare piece of metal on the ground and it cuts your run between the batts, the fuses will protect your batts from shorting out and exploding/damaging the batt,amp,equip, etc... thats the reason you have to have one before each batt. if the short happens in the middle of the wire, then both batts will be affected and both need to be protected. as for the fuse before the amps, if the amps have fuses in them, then you dont "need" to add an extra fuse cause the amps already have that protection necessary. if the amp doesnt have any fuses, then it is recommended to protect your equip. when you have both batts connected, your music should only be taking power from the rear batt. if you have your music on and you connect a dmm to the front batt and see that the voltage drops, then you know that it is taking from the front and the back batt isnt sufficient to keep up with the demands. thats the reason why people always say to put the biggest batt in the back (so it doesnt affect the front batt) and as for grounding the amp to the back batt, its ok to do so. and if possible, do a run of 0/1 neg from front to back batt and connect the amp to the back batt. it will give the back batt and amp better connectivity. if you cant do the extra run, then just ground the rear batt cleanly and connect the amp to the batt. you dont want to be drilling alot of holes to the frame of your car.. if anything is wrong, please correct me for i am learning to. kthanksbye edit: ^ lawls. i like that diagram Edited September 1, 2009 by enemyofsilence Quote Team Bass-Hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Hostility Posted September 1, 2009 Author Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 (edited) here is my rant about what i know.from what i understand, the fuses between the front and rear batt are to protect from shorts. for example, if there is a bare piece of metal on the ground and it cuts your run between the batts, the fuses will protect your batts from shorting out and exploding/damaging the batt,amp,equip, etc... thats the reason you have to have one before each batt. if the short happens in the middle of the wire, then both batts will be affected and both need to be protected. as for the fuse before the amps, if the amps have fuses in them, then you dont "need" to add an extra fuse cause the amps already have that protection necessary. if the amp doesnt have any fuses, then it is recommended to protect your equip. when you have both batts connected, your music should only be taking power from the rear batt. if you have your music on and you connect a dmm to the front batt and see that the voltage drops, then you know that it is taking from the front and the back batt isnt sufficient to keep up with the demands. thats the reason why people always say to put the biggest batt in the back (so it doesnt affect the front batt) and as for grounding the amp to the back batt, its ok to do so. and if possible, do a run of 0/1 neg from front to back batt and connect the amp to the back batt. it will give the back batt and amp better connectivity. if you cant do the extra run, then just ground the rear batt cleanly and connect the amp to the batt. you dont want to be drilling alot of holes to the frame of your car.. if anything is wrong, please correct me for i am learning to. kthanksbye edit: ^ lawls. i like that diagram ahh i never though about fusing just before 2nd battery, now i understand, thanks! also, what size fuse should be in between the batteries? Edited September 1, 2009 by Hostility Quote 99 s10 4.3L Big 3 220amp alt Odyssey 1500 Odyssey 2150 Northstar NSB 75 Sundown Audio 3500D Sundown Audio 125.2 3 Sundown Audio SA-12's Alpine H/U RF Power Comp set 6.5" RF 3 sixty line driver 5.25 cubes @ 31hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
J00bles Posted September 1, 2009 Report Share Posted September 1, 2009 ahh i never though about fusing just before 2nd battery, now i understand, thanks! also, what size fuse should be in between the batteries? on 1/0 wire, use a 250-300 amp fuse. Quote 8 DC Level 4 M2 15s2 DC Audio 5ks26^2 clamshell tuned to 30hz9 Kinetik 1400sMechman externally reg'd 340 S seriesin a 99 Jeep Cherokee Click to see J00bles' Youtube Channel Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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