Robola 46's BERYLLIUM BMW 323ci.

[andym85]

These things will end up in the hole of the diaphragm. First 3 aluminum bars of 10 mm thick.

Here I had to have a clean flat side of 4 centimeters aprox.

I put them next to each other, screwed them tight(for safety), and stretched them out.

Then I planted in the uppermill, and milled a flat side.

On the top of the bars you could see I screwed them, so afterwards...I disced this off..

I divided this equaly, and tightened this on the back.

Now you can see why I needed a flat side

Once I had this, I screwed on a piece of aluminum tube of 10cm diameters.

This tube will get much shorter, but now, I don't know how much exactly...

Here the frontview, looks a bit like a little nuclear reactor or so.

This was the easy part...and now I have to make something to get in that tube.

And I think it's gonna be... COOL. (i hope)

[andym85]

I’ve been busy milling some rings in aluminum for the diaphragm, and believe me, many hours have passed.

This is a ring of 8mm thick that will get into the middle, around the big tube.

How I make a ring, you all should know by know, but here you can see how I made a flange on it.

It’s super easy to do so. You take a right mill, and take a little plank of mdf wood.

This plank you put on top of the mill.

By pulling the plank away, the mill gets free on the front…and here you keep on the aluminum piece.

It’s kind of a glider you have.

Here you can see the result, and you can see the MDF ring is still mounted on. This one stays on, so I can get a better grip on the part.

One ring finished

This little ring will get on the inside, and I made this of anodized material. Did this to have some contrast.

The upper ring needs to be abdraded firmly now, cause I’m going to polish it.

Here you can see how it’ll look. In the centre in the middle, a logo or so will be added, but still don’t know what …

Then I started again but making the middle ring.

Measured correctly, and made it with MDF at first. Drawed it out on 8mm aluminum, and sawed it out. Taped them on each other, and held it to the mill.

[andym85]

This was the result.

Here you can see I made a double flange.

Then I made another ring of anodised aluminum of 2mm thick.

Here you can see this piece fits into the outer flange.

Here you can see that this will all get mounted on the diaphragm

Then I needed to make the outer and final ring.

This will be tightened, against all of my principles, with 6 screws. Had the opportunity to glue it, but doubted if that would look good

Here you can see I made 2 more flanges.

See this all mounted.on.

With a little cube of 5mm thick, I want to show you how I will tighten this Around the diaphragm will get a lot of carbon fibre, I can stop nicely on the aluminum, and I can roll the ring against it, for a perfect finish.

I’m pretty satisfied about the mill-work. There has been a lot of work on this, but in the meanwhile that’s long forgotton..

What’s next now you ask… Well the dull, boring jobs as usual. Rubbing, abrading, ….and holding everything to the polish-brush.

In the meanwhile a friend of mine, who has a big lathe (turning bench?) made me some axis, who will get placed onto the window-wiper-motor.

These are only 8mm diameter on the top, and so it will all open and close more slowly…and this was how I wanted it.

My last last problem with the opening and closing, I managed to solve.

The steel cable turned on nicely onto the axis, but when it need to go the other direction, it got loose cause the cable was to stiff, and the spring didn’t have enoughtcounter balance.

A simple trick… I used nylon. The kind they use to catch silurus-fish, it’s has traction limit of 120kg, and is nicely supple / elastic.

Now it’ll rolls in sweet and all the problems are gone.

[andym85]

I was getting sick of fucking in the trunk with a normal during lamp. I had about 3 of those, and throwed them all in the bin today. No more asshole lamp in my trunk.

I got to the store, and got me some normal 20 watts lights, and a couple of meters of cable. Hanged it in the trunk in a descent way, so it didn't bother me.

It's a little update, but it's so luxurious now, really, and it gives me some warmth also.

So the diaphragm will stay, like it sits now. As you can see, I raised it for a couple of centimeters.

I managed to do so by setting the backrest of the rearseat 3 cm more straight. The 2 toggles where the seat klicks into, I replaced.

As long as I have the car, no one has ever sat in the back, so not going to let that bother me.

Now I have only one more problem, and that's the spring I need to place.

It'll get tight for that I think, but that problem I'm used to by now

[andym85]

I kept myself busy with improving the diaphragm. The biggest problems are gone, and I'm satisfied how it all works now.

The first thing I need to have, was a good slider/conductor where the nylon wire slides over when the diaphram opens and closes.

Cause a roller would be perfect for the job, I editted one with the disc.

The meaning of this was that I needed a sloth where the cable nicely stays in turn.I immediately put a screw in the roller with the propper roundels so it all was TIGHTEN.

The I put it in my drilling machine, and put in the center of my mill.

As you can see, fireworks were early this year :-) but it went perfect.

After that I just let it turn, and held a piece of sandpaper against it, to smoothen' it some more.

On the left you can see the roller, tuned by Robolop.

Here you can see the total picture of the MDF board as it'll come into the trunk.

My biggest concern is the spring. I really want to get this out of sight. Since I had some place between the seat I put it there.

I had to make a seperate piece of aluminum to mount it all on. To do this, I first had to tighten the MDF on the back of the rearseat, and after that I could screw on the aluminum.

I had to make this in 2 pieces, cause it all was to big to get in between.

Underneath the spring, I taped a piece of vilt, so it can't make any noise. I'm planning of adding something around the spring to reduce vibration and noise towards zero.

Here you can see the tuned roller, within the cable, that's in connection with the lever.

Here you can see it working when closed.

You can also see I added some rubbers, where the lever stops.

Here the inox-cable will lay into, witch stands in connection with the windowwipermotor.

The motor is already firmly tightened in the trunk, besides the end loop contacts, it's all ready to mount in the bimmer.

As for now, I'm really satisfied with how it all works and looks.

This I cannot say about Marilyn Manson his performance yesterday in the Lotto Arena here in Belgium.

The asshole didn't feel like performing according to me, he stopped after an hour.

the loser.

[andym85]

I did some improvements on the diaphragm. A lot of rings I made ended up in the bin. Sometimes these things happen.

This time it was the outer ring. This one is tightened with 6 screws.

The inner ring stayed the same.

This is what's left of the tube. You can see I made a aluminium little cover for it. Now it's nicely finished when the armrest is down.

The 3 toggles where the little cup is tightened with, are now polished too.

Here you can see the backside.

This will be the frontside.

The meaning of all this is that I'm planning of working it all into one part towards the outer polished ring. Of the rest you won't see anything.

I would like to do this in carbon fibre, so I'll get a nice contrast between the 2 materials.

[andym85]

This is how it sits in the car, and I've got plenty of space up and down there.

Here's the transmission with the steel cable.

the "end-loop-contacts"

Here's the motor who brings movement in all of this.

What I feared the most, is how the cable was going to roll itself on. I managed to solve this simply by putting the supply out of the centre, of the axis' motor.

this works perfectly. and believe me, I tried this many times, never malfunctioned.

[andym85]

First of all I would like to wish everyone a good and healthy 2010. May your dreams come true, and have a lot of fun. In life only a few things count, and enjoying is one of them.

About me… I’m satisfied with what I’ve done and made, but on top of my list there are the 2 heavenly hours I heard Metallica playing in Werchter, although Fergie did a good job too.

About the Ice, the diaphragm I made was a bull’s eye. I never thought I’d make something like this. And what’s more important, is that I managed to add something more into the trunk that’s electric.

The counter is now on 3, and sure hope it will rise even more.

I took some pictures of the lighting and the amplifierbox.

What I’m going to do next is to remove the amplifierbox.

When I made the aluminum box 2 years ago, I considered the fact that some changes may have come… Well, change is here…

The Precision Power amp is going out, and will have to make way for the new 2 amplifiers.

The big amount of work to get the PPI nicely covered is for the bin, but I know in the back of my head this could happen.

What’s going to happen with the other amplifiers, will be (according to me) even nice looking and even have more power.

Will sort it out.

[andym85]

Here you can see how the diaphragm looks, seen from the interior of the car.

You can see that the diaphragm doesn’t sit in the center of the armrest.

What you see, won’t stay this way. It all needs to get finished, like when the armrest is down, it will look nice and complety ready

These will be the 2 new amplifiers that will recplace the PPI.

As you can see, they are from JL Audio. The reason why? Simple, all the topdesigners from PPI work now at JL Audio.

2 years ago I’ve spoken with Jeff Scoon, the topdesigner of PPI. And I must say, from then on, it was in my mind of using JL amps someday.

The other option was the Focal Duo Monitor, but he has been for sale a couple of years now.

Cause this was only a 2-way amp, I had to buy one more to feed the subs.

A good friend of mine, Iwan Vinck (ARC deurne) has tested the JL edition, and was seriously impressed of what these things can do, and how they sound.

If someone like that is impressed, there’s no need to doubt, and you just have to GO FOR IT.

The HD600/4 gives 4x150, but in my case, I’m going to bridge it to 2x300 on the front speakers.

The HD750/1 gives 1x750 watt, and this will be used for the subs.

In the meanwhile, I’ve lifted the PPI from it’s case, and put it in nicely into my cupboard. Don’t think I’ll sell this, you won’t get anything for that now a days.

Then I rather mount it in my golf I drive daily.