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I found some of this to be funny lol.

"I am a big fan of bass. When I was deciding on which system to choose, it took a lot of calls and a lot of research for me to choose what I wanted. I wanted as much CLEAN bass as possible. First you have to know that theres different kinds of bass. A cheap sub or pair of subs will give you loud bass that can be heard a long way away, but doesn't necessarily sound great in the car. A high-end sub by JL Audio will be heard a mile away, and will give you DEEP bass that sounds great, and you will feel it-it will rattle everything in the car including you. In order to attain clean deep bass, you need only one of the JL 13W7 subs. If I was to turn my 13W7 all the way up, it would be hitting at nearly 150 decibles. The bass that this sub puts out lets you here things in songs that you have never heard before. Also if you get the JL 1000/1 amp, the tuning of the sub and amp combo are endless, giving you the perfect bass that YOU want. Also, 1 JL 13W7 with the right amp will hit like two 15 inch subs. The 13W7 is the real thing, it's loud, it looks good, and it's reliable. This is the best sub out there right now, no other sub gives you the amount of clean bass as the JL 13W7. In my opinion, the price is well worth it if you want the best subwoofer in the world. REMEMBER-If you are serious about having this much bass you have to know the following--#1. If you get the JL 13W7, you SHOULD wire it to the JL 1000/1 amp. This amp will give the perfect amount of power to the sub, while running reliable (1000 watts rms). For this 13W7 to truely work at its potential, then the JL 1000/1 amp is a necessity. JL engineered the 13W7 and the 1000/1 to work perfect with eack other. #2. Be careful with the wiring kit that you use. Most people will tell you 4-guage is fine, but I've heard a coupe stories where it didn't hold up. I went with 2-guage from Power Acoustic, and so far it's been great. #3. Remember what car you are putting this system in. If it is a Suburban, then fine. But if you try to put it into a small car, then you have to think about a compacitor. Some will say you don't need a cap, because the JL 1000/1 amp is so advanced, that it basically regulates itself, well this is true, but I still got a 5 farad cap from Power Acoustic. My car is a Toyota, and since the alternater is so small, it is hard for the alternater to support the system when it is really hitting at a high level (Aspecially with lights on or the AC on). A cap will store energy, and when the bass hits, the amp is pulling from the cap, and not directly from the alternator. (Most small car alternaters are 90 amps, but a larger car like a Suburban is 120 amps). AC uses about 45 amps, and headlights uses about 25 amps. And the bass from the system will hit at about 80 amps if its turned up. So now you can see why you don't put your AC on at night with your bass blasting. Also be careful on putting this sub in a trunk of a car. One guy put 1 JL 13W7 in a trunk of a Lexas, and since the sub has to breathe and have so much air, the panals of the car were exspanding an contracting, making the paint chip on the car. #4. Dynamate. You WILL need dynamate where ever you put your system. I don't have any in my car, but I am already strarting to hear things come loose, and starting to hear a difference in bass quality. Dynamate will give you bettter bass with any system. #5.A lot of bass is one thing, but a great system separates a lot of rides. If you want the whole thing, then go with a component system up front, and a couple speakers in the back (or another component set in back if the car is big). It will make a huge difference, factory speakers are not good enough. There are so many options on who to go with. I got Alpine, and they sound amazing. Theres also Polk, but Alpine has some great stuff out right now. Also, you will probably need a small amp of about 150 watts rms to run the component speakers. With this you will now have a lot of bass, but will still be able to hear the words. #6. Get a nice enclosure. Putting your sub in a good box will give you better sound and more bass. I got the JL ProWedge box with the 13W7 already in it (sealed at the factory, check JL's website for pics). This makes it good because then you know the sub is fit to the factory specs. Also, my sub can hit at around 143 decibles, but if you get a ported box, then the sub can hit at 148 decibles. #7. Get a good deck. A good cd player as the the head unit is vital. This is because you will find yourself constantly adjudsting the amount of bass that you feel like. I got the nicest Alpine you can get without a dvd player (450.00). This deck gives me an unlimited amount of options and looks good. #8. Don't ride with your windows up (mainly in an SUV). When the bass and volume are up, and the system is hitting, the pressure is so great inside, that a window will explode. Always ride with two windows 1 1/2 inches down.----------------The JL 13W7 is the ultimate in sound. But it is for the person who is going to go all out, which means getting the JL 1000/1 amp and a nice enclosure. The price is high, but it is worth it because the system will be putting out a lot of sound for a long time if it is put together right."

http://www.amazon.com/JL-Subwoofer-Ultimat...317&sr=1-55

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SOMEONE SLAP THIS FOOL.man

Don't ride with your windows up (mainly in an SUV). When the bass and volume are up, and the system is hitting, the pressure is so great inside, that a window will explode. Always ride with two windows 1 1/2 inches down

Edited by Beanz
That's why they don't deliver.

Yer ass better go sit along the side of the road and wait.

You can't expect them to travel up some dirt road in a hick / back woods town. Thats how horror movies start :D

I explain things very simply and use analogies in terms of Pickles, and grape drink, pool noodles and jackhammers...if you can't put 2 and 2 together there man, There simply is not much more I can do.

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funniest things to me from that (only read like 50% of it) was the 45amps from the AC, the 2 gauge amp kit from power acoustik fitting in a 4 gauge fitting, paint chipping from flexing and the windows blowing out.

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he obviously thinks he nows his info but clearly not lol

Dan Plummer - 1x DC sounds Level4 15" - 800wrms - 3.5 cuft Ported Box - Rover 25

Peak= 142.2dB @ 40Hz

40Hz= 142.2dB

33Hz= 139.6dB

25Hz= 136.8dB

20Hz= 136.1dB

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I need to pick me up a compacitor and some dynamate. :hairtrick:

Yeah. I need of compacitor and dynamite too, then I'd probably hit 150 for the first time. Oooopppsss...

My comp setup (Not bad for what it is):

HP Compaq Presario V6120US laptop with:

15.4" widescreen

AMD Turion 64 X2 1.6GHz processor

2x1GB stick DDR2 SDRAM (667 Mhz)

Seagate Momentus 500GB SATA HDD

128MB shared video memory

Windows 7 Home Premium 64 bit

12 cell Lithium Ion battery (actual battery usage time: 6 hours)

What it does:

635670364.png4532707.png

On a USB 2.0 Wireless card

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