Bills Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 so ya, I'm liking this now man. Keep this shit up. Bills KwB Team DC Audio Midwest captain Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBurt09 Posted October 29, 2009 Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 Just out of sheer curiosity, what makes you go with the Knu 1/0 wire versus some bigger welding wire from like Trystar or Welding Supply?Build looks awesome by the way man.Keep up the good work.I'm probably almost just as eager for you to get those terminals as you are.I want to see/hear this thing :hairtrick: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tejcurrent Posted October 29, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 29, 2009 Thanks. I'm keeping the amp, just changing the charging and eventually the subs. I was going with Mechman but I want the idle output offered with DC. If I try to rev the engine while demoing I look down to see 5000+ rpms because I couldn't hear the engine over the bass. I'd rather be able to walk away from the truck, or around it while testing instead of needing someone to rev things for me. I don't have room for a lot of batteries so having alternators able to supply 70-90% of the power needed at idle speeds would be great. Honestly I chose Knu because I think it looks nice, and due to the cramped space I need it nice and flexible, but I'd have to say most of the reason is appearance lol. I also figure since this is the official build log I'll add some pics of my Second Skin Install from when I did my doors: A door pack of Damplifier Pro, plus 2 gallons of Spectrum. I put 1 layer of damplifier on the inner and outer parts of the rear doors, but there was not enough to go around on the front. I put 1 layer on the entire outer skin, and some around the panels where the speakers rest. Cleaned well with acetone and ready for Spectrum. I put 2-3 coats on top of the Damplifier, and went heavier where there I couldn't get the mat. I got the components for free, I can't complain especially for the money. I'd love to do a nice 2 or 3-way active setup though, but there is no local shop I trust to help with the process and I don't have time right now. Anyway, just wanted to throw some pics up of the rest of the truck. tejcurrent XS Power T3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tejcurrent Posted October 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 I am currently working on a research paper that was supposed to take me all week, I've been doing it for about 1.5 hours now, and I think I need to have it done by 12. If I get it done in time I'll have more pics tonight. I really hate procrastination lol... I hooked everything up today that I could, which meant 1 run of 1/0 + and ground, and 1 250a fuse. I got the amp running but with the electrical situation how it is and only 2 batteries connected I was very conservative. With the MLA module on high I let it drop to 15v at idle, but coasting down the road it stayed at least 15.3. I was surprised it hit the lows as well as it did. From the sound of it the tuning has dropped quite a bit from 36hz due to how close it is to the tailgate. Sounds pretty accurate on things like Devildriver, and definitely drops on the lowes. A bit too much in the higher frequencies for my liking, but I believe some tuning will help. So with playing it for 1/2 an hour straight on chopped/screwed music with no fuse popping it can't be pulling that much power. I didn't have any equipment to test, just a dmm, so I have to guess from past experience that they are getting 1000-1500 watts each. There were some small hair tricks, flutter a piece of paper with the window 1/2 down, slight hair movement. Neighbors came out when I tried to make a video so that will have to wait till I install the rest of the wire and hook up more than 2 batteries. Ear-o-meter says it's in the 149 range right now, but what do I know. tejcurrent XS Power T3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBurt09 Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Honestly I chose Knu because I think it looks nice, and due to the cramped space I need it nice and flexible, but I'd have to say most of the reason is appearance lol. So if it wasn't about appearance or if flexibility weren't an issue would you have run the bigger welding cable or think you would have seen any benefits from running it? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tejcurrent Posted October 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 I was really considering it, but I already had several runs of 1/0 - approximately 2 rolls. If I was starting from scratch chances are I would use several larger runs. If I do a pure SPL build in the future I don't plan on buying "pretty" wire, but it sure is a lot easier to work with. The finer strand count reduces the chances of getting a sharp piece of wire cutting your hand, where I've worked with wire so stiff it just was unpleasant. If I could find welding wire cheaper I'd go with it, but I'd really want 2 different colors to differentiate power and ground. It just helps me keep things straight. People debate wire all the time, but the way I see it is if you have more than you need anyway it doesn't really matter how you got there. Some CCA wire is rated for 250a, while some copper is 300a. If I had a draw of 800 amps and used 4 CCA runs or 3 OFC runs or 2 4/0 runs I still have enough to get the job done. Hope that answers your question, I'm a bit tired and may not have fully understood. tejcurrent XS Power T3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tejcurrent Posted October 30, 2009 Author Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Running 2 more runs of power, 1 more ground. Removed a run of CCA to make room in the firewall. I think 8 runs is enough, and honestly I don't know if I have enough power to do another run and have extra for batteries and alternators. If I have left overs I'll probably go back in. Drivers front side- I tried to group it all together so it feels smooth under your feet. Needs cleaned good, but it looks and feels factory. Someone had dirty ass feet! Sort of makes me angry it looks so bad, but I'll be redoing the interior if I keep the vehicle, and it needs a good cleaning anyway. Now you see it Now you don't. Damn dirty feet. It's a work vehicle anyway I guess. And it's all in place. I need terminals and buss bars just to fit all the wire on the batteries. My hoe sure is juicy. It's been spewing water like crazy since I had the cats cut. I really want to get that fixed, DJ if I see you at a comp I sure hope you still have that buddy that does exhaust. I want to fix things up some. The run I removed. Getting ready to ship it to another forum member, I threw the bottle in there for visual reference. It's about 11 ft I think. Here's a pic of my voltage after about 5 minutes play time. Sorry no vids, and that's all the pics I could get today. tejcurrent XS Power T3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
JBurt09 Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 I was really considering it, but I already had several runs of 1/0 - approximately 2 rolls. If I was starting from scratch chances are I would use several larger runs. If I do a pure SPL build in the future I don't plan on buying "pretty" wire, but it sure is a lot easier to work with. The finer strand count reduces the chances of getting a sharp piece of wire cutting your hand, where I've worked with wire so stiff it just was unpleasant. If I could find welding wire cheaper I'd go with it, but I'd really want 2 different colors to differentiate power and ground. It just helps me keep things straight.People debate wire all the time, but the way I see it is if you have more than you need anyway it doesn't really matter how you got there. Some CCA wire is rated for 250a, while some copper is 300a. If I had a draw of 800 amps and used 4 CCA runs or 3 OFC runs or 2 4/0 runs I still have enough to get the job done. Hope that answers your question, I'm a bit tired and may not have fully understood. No that pretty much sums it up I think.I'm planning on using nice wire for cosmetic appeal on the batteries and where it will be visible, but for connecting the alternator to the batteries, upgrading the big 3, and getting all the current to the battery bank in the back I was thinking welding wire would be more efficient since it comes in bigger sizes.I got what you're saying though.Thanks for the feedback.I appreciate it. And that's a WHOLELOTTAWIRE under your feet!!Keep up the good work.Turning out very nice. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Colin - STAPUFT Posted October 30, 2009 Report Share Posted October 30, 2009 Damnation!!!! And this is a downgrade??? LOL Coming along great! 12 - 12"s in the STAY PUFT 1989 Chevy Astro Build & Comment Log Un-Interrupted Build LogYouTube Channel Chevy Trailblazer 5.1 Dolby Digital DTS Install You have a beard of a mysterious sea captain. I would follow you to hell and back. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
BassJunkie Posted October 31, 2009 Report Share Posted October 31, 2009 Damnation!!!! And this is a downgrade??? LOL Coming along great! x2 Looking good! 1986 C20 Suburban 9 American Bass XFL 15's B2 M1MKII 14v XS Power Batteries Maxwell Caps Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not you havent lived until you've hit a screw with a router. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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