MickyMcD Posted December 16, 2009 Report Posted December 16, 2009 Hey buddy, good on you for getting on to the system before you can drive (or can you? I am afraid I do not know what the legal driving age is in America). If your system sounds good to you, fantastic. That's the aim of the game. My only suggestion is not to mix driver size and enclosure type. Two different drivers (and two identical drivers in different loadings) reproducing the same frequency range can lead to destructive interferance and phase correlation issues. It may be beneficial to use all avaliable room for a larger enclosure for one type of driver. Then again, if you are happy with what you are running, then keep slogging that buddy. And I agree with the post above, it's awesome that your father is into sound as well. Cheers, Mick Work;DiGiCo D1 Live / MIDAS Heratige 1000 / MIDAS VeniceMeyer Sound CQ-1's, CQ-2's, PSW-2'sRAMSA Monitor AmplifiersP.Audio MonitorsBSS OMNIDRIVE and SoundwebDBX 231 and Klark Teknik DN360 EQ'sRCF TT22ARCF ART320
dugee81 Posted December 16, 2009 Report Posted December 16, 2009 IIRC, for that amp each channel is rated at 60Rms per channel @ 2ohms and the Sub Channel is rated at 150Rms @ 4ohms. oh, i read incorrectly then. nvm & thnx lol 200a alt. by Excessive Amperage hc800 under hood & 2 Deka 9a31 in rear 1/0awg + big 3 SAZ 3000D HDC3 18" @ 2 ohm
kl0wn Posted December 16, 2009 Report Posted December 16, 2009 i think if you were to run the cvr's in a better box, it'll sound way better than the 10/12 setup you got now, plus it'll save you some space... my 1 cent. They're Kicker Comps, not CVR's. And btw they are rated at 300watts max, 150 rms. Keep an eye out on the RMS rating more than max watts btw. 06 Mini Cooper S Sundown, SoundQubed Cadence, XS Power 151s Sealed 155s Outlaw Windshield @ 37hz
BeachJoshua Posted December 17, 2009 Author Report Posted December 17, 2009 They're Kicker Comps, not CVR's. And btw they are rated at 300watts max, 150 rms. Keep an eye out on the RMS rating more than max watts btw. -shoots self for gettin on this thread- Okay, what you just posted, is EXACTLY RIGHT, and that guy that fixed the amp specs for the other guy, he's EXACTLY RIGHT, so yeah, and those 10's are rated at 150 RMS too.. | S-10 | 4.5^3 ft | 33Hz | SAE-1000D @ 1 Ohm | 2 SA-12s | SPL: 143.7 Sealed | 153.4 Port Wars
BeachJoshua Posted December 17, 2009 Author Report Posted December 17, 2009 Yeah man, thats what i was saying. Theres tons of ways to improve your system without dropping cash. Thats why i said just learn. 4th order and tline are different types of boxes. You arent just limited to ported and sealed boxes. With a little bit of reading you can start expanding in those areas. Impedence rise is tricky...but can definitely come in handy. search and read up about it. You will notcie how much power your subs "truly" get. Got any questions feel free to pm me bud. Id be more than willing to help out with any questions. Oh the impedence stuff, yeah my dad tought me about that, and since then I've been trying to convince multiple people that there "1500 Watt" amp doesn't mean shit... and even better, since it's running less fuse than mine, they got ripped. | S-10 | 4.5^3 ft | 33Hz | SAE-1000D @ 1 Ohm | 2 SA-12s | SPL: 143.7 Sealed | 153.4 Port Wars
kl0wn Posted December 17, 2009 Report Posted December 17, 2009 -shoots self for gettin on this thread-Okay, what you just posted, is EXACTLY RIGHT, and that guy that fixed the amp specs for the other guy, he's EXACTLY RIGHT, so yeah, and those 10's are rated at 150 RMS too.. I was just pointing out they were comps, since the other guy said they were CVR's and you said they weren't but never said what they were. Also earlier you said they were rated at 300 watts so each sub is seeing 300 watts, so I was also pointing out you should watch for the RMS instead. Don't get so defensive.. 06 Mini Cooper S Sundown, SoundQubed Cadence, XS Power 151s Sealed 155s Outlaw Windshield @ 37hz
BeachJoshua Posted December 17, 2009 Author Report Posted December 17, 2009 I was just pointing out they were comps, since the other guy said they were CVR's and you said they weren't but never said what they were. Also earlier you said they were rated at 300 watts so each sub is seeing 300 watts, so I was also pointing out you should watch for the RMS instead. Don't get so defensive.. no no no dude... I'm not I'm saying I fucked up... and you are right... this thread started a while ago... and today just took off.... I never expected this... I'm hungry... my head hurts... CAN YOU SAY STRESS?!?! lol... I want to get off here, but I'm so caught up in it now.... | S-10 | 4.5^3 ft | 33Hz | SAE-1000D @ 1 Ohm | 2 SA-12s | SPL: 143.7 Sealed | 153.4 Port Wars
Doylerules826 Posted December 17, 2009 Report Posted December 17, 2009 no no no dude... I'm not I'm saying I fucked up... and you are right... this thread started a while ago... and today just took off.... I never expected this... I'm hungry... my head hurts... CAN YOU SAY STRESS?!?! lol... I want to get off here, but I'm so caught up in it now.... go make a sandwhich, pop some advil/Motrin/Tylenol take a shower then get back on here. but hey i give you probs for your system, your just on the tip of the iceberg though 2000 chevy blazer Avic n1
Blackedout Posted December 17, 2009 Report Posted December 17, 2009 Due to the fact that your Amps are under the seat, you should pay more attention to the wiring. It doesn't matter what people see, it matters that if you look under that seat, there are thin metal wires running under the foam of the seat for support. Those wires are ground out, due to the seat being bolted to the frame, so all it takes is the power wire to pop off and make a solid connection with those metal foam supports, which take very little current to make red hot. Your fuse doesn't pop, the wire glows red hot and ignites the seat foam. One seat catches, the headliner catches, another seat catches, and before you know it your whole truck is an inferno. Maybe you should take a step back, slow down a little, and realize we're not out to knock on your shit. We're giving you some constructive insight on how to make your system cleaner sounding, louder, and most of all be safer. With that being said, there are a few things you should maybe reconsider, above everything else is electrical (Making your system safe). First is the capacitor.... You've got it tucked away in a spot full of potential hazards. I may be missing something in the picture, but I see nothing to securely fasten it. Say there's a chance that the fuse doesn't pop, and the cap moves around shorts out against any one of the metal pieces surrounding it, could lead to big problems.... I'd suggest building an MDF amp rack on your floor, behind your seats and in between your box to store both your capacitor and your amp. If you're worried about people seeing it, put a carpeted beauty panel over the top, and maybe a fan or two for some ventillation and it'll be cleaner and safer than the previous setup. As far as making your system better for free.... The cost of materials are never free, unless your dad hooks it up. My advice, sell the two 10s and buy one more Kicker 12C. Run 3 12's off your one amp in one big box below the window line. 3 subs forward, port up. I'd say at most, materials would cost you $100. I'm willing to bet if it is done right, your system will be louder and you will still have a back window. Good luck man, take your time. Trunk Build Log
Jared420 Posted December 17, 2009 Report Posted December 17, 2009 I'm so lost as to where people think I'm going to learn so much, my dad is 39 now, and he's been building boxes and installing systems for himself and his friends since he was 16 or so, this system was meant to be inexpensive but sound good, the 12's and tens are in there because the amp runs the sub channel at 4 ohms, running just the 10's or the 12's caused the amp to over heat, I have pics some where of the build up but IDK where they are but I had just the 12's in there for one day before we realized why it was always over heating and cutting out with just the 10's...my point... stop saying I'm going to learn... and what not, and just say what you want me to know... what the hell am I supposed to be learning? You dont have to learn anything if you don't want. But you can learn just about anything there is to know about audio on this site. I Been trying to learn for a couple of years now and Im still a noob to alot of things but im gettin better. 2012 silverado ext cab ltz 24" kmc rims AudioQue 2200 Pioneer AppRadio Alpine mrx f35 4 channel Bose mids and highs Iraggi Alt + stock alt in a DC power dual alternator kit Yellowtop+stock under hood 0 gauge Knu wire Big 3 4 gauge stinger (4 chan wiring) 3 DC 10'' LVL3 with LVL4 parts
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