Jump to content
Second Skin Audio

A few questions on building the best box for my ride


Recommended Posts

first thing i'd do is turn that bass boost down. all the way. then readjust your gain properly. for displacement, depending on size of the box and number of subs, i usually use around .2 ish for each sub, then add a few tenths for bracing displacement. the bigger the box is you build, the more surface area of port you'll need to properly suit the enclosure. general rule of thumb is 12-16 sq inches of port per cubic foot. frequency tuning depends on how much port area you have. less area will require a shorter port length than that of one with more port area in the same box to maintain the same tuning. are you going to be using an aero port? that quote says one 4" port for a 2 cubic foot box. doing a 4 cubic foot box going by those recommendations you'd need two 4" ports. each 10 3/4" long. i havent checked that tuning so i'm assuming it's right.

if you're fully lost, post the dimensions you have to work with and someone can help you with a design

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

yo i live pretty close to atlanta i could prolly help you out with gettin this done right

2005 Ford Ranger Reg cab

Build in Progress

T3 Audio T2000 12

ARC SE4000

Stinger HPM 1/0 Wire

DC power 270xp

Batts: 1 Redtop up front and a Stinger SPP2250 in the back

Hopes to be in and around a 150....weel see

my youtube channel

http://www.youtube.com/user/steph3n1

imgsize.jpg

Team DBs (Driven By sound)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have the punch series.

Here are the specs for the subs. I'll be using two of these.

# dual 4-ohm voice coils

# CONsealer gasket hides mounting screws and prevents air leaks around the frame

# frequency response 26-200 Hz

# power range 150-500 watts RMS (250 watts per voice coil)

# peak power 1,000 watts

# sensitivity 88 dB SPL

# top mount depth 5-13/16"

# sealed box volume 0.8-4.0 cubic feet

# ported box volume 1.75-4.0 cubic feet

Here are the specs for the amp.

# Max power 2-ohm 1000W x 2, RMS power 4-ohm 300W x 2

# Max bridged power 4-ohm x 2000W x 1, signal-to-noise ratio > 102dB, THD 0.01%

# Features remote subwoofer level control, tri-mode operation and bridgeable

# 11 7/8" W x 2 5/8" H x 16 13"/16" L

Right now I have the subs wired up at 4 ohms bridged according to Rockford's diagram.

You think I should drop down to 2 ohms or leave it at 4?

2_4ohmDVC_4ohm.gif

first off that amp will not handle a 1 ohm load . your subs can either be wired @ 1ohm or 4ohm and that amp will go into to protect if you even do a 1ohm load. and why ur subs are going into shit mode is a totally different story. like build quality of the amp . you probably have the gain turned up. way up and and when you give it volume its sending a "2000 Watt" clipped signal and tearing your subs apart. get a better amp before you kill those woofers.

Edited by Tooshort064

95 Civic Coupe

Pioneer AVH-P7600DVD

Kinetik HC-1200 In Front

Kinetik HC-2000 In Rear

Memphis 16-MCA3004

2 X Memphis 16-MCD1000 With Maxxsonics MLX-100

2 X DC LVL 4 XL 12's

Pioneer Premier TS-C720PRS In Door's

Kenwood KFC-6982ie In Rear Deck

All Memphis Wire/Rca's and misc.

tooshort.png

724920892.png

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.
  • Who's Online   1 Member, 0 Anonymous, 1881 Guests (See full list)

×
×
  • Create New...