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Yesterday I was driving home and was playing Lets get fu**ed up by Tech 9. My head unit has a sub output on it so I have both amps running thru the head unit. I have been noticing here lately that my factory volt meter will go down to between 10 and 11 volts when I got the volume turned up more than half way. Anyways when the song was playing the main chorus the first two bass notes would hit through my subs and sound just fine but when the second two bass notes would hit it would sound like the bass was trying to go thru my mids in my front doors and they would crackle and pop. I got passive crossovers on my component set so I dont think think they went bad. Also when I got it on low volume it plays and sounds great. Namosh is thinking my alt is going out and thats why my subs are distorting at high volumes. I was also thinking its my head unit so any help on this would be appreciated!

Kenwood Excelon KDX-693 Head Unit

Kinetik HC600

Powerbass 6.75's in front doors

Powerbass 6.75's in rear deck

Powerbass 1000.1D

Powerbass 400.4

2 SA-12 inch Sundown Audio Subs

0 gauge Power Wire and Big 3

Custom Amp Rack

Code Alarm with remote start

Stinger Digital Volt Meter

My build log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/51869-1996-chevy-blazer-build/

My youtube channel http://www.youtube.com/user/kanesdisciple

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have you done the big 3 yet?

I got the big three to do, but I wanna upgrade my current power wire before I upgrade the big three. I figured if I upgrade the big three first I will be sending alot more current thru a small power wire and I didnt want to burn up my amps! If that makes sense!

Kenwood Excelon KDX-693 Head Unit

Kinetik HC600

Powerbass 6.75's in front doors

Powerbass 6.75's in rear deck

Powerbass 1000.1D

Powerbass 400.4

2 SA-12 inch Sundown Audio Subs

0 gauge Power Wire and Big 3

Custom Amp Rack

Code Alarm with remote start

Stinger Digital Volt Meter

My build log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/51869-1996-chevy-blazer-build/

My youtube channel http://www.youtube.com/user/kanesdisciple

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I got the big three to do, but I wanna upgrade my current power wire before I upgrade the big three. I figured if I upgrade the big three first I will be sending alot more current thru a small power wire and I didnt want to burn up my amps! If that makes sense!

well definitely get bigger power wire and knock out that big 3, hope it saves your problems but act fast before you damage something.

2-DC 15XLM2 D.7s

1-DC 5K amp

(1) XS Power D6500(UNDERHOOD) and (1) XS3000(REAR)

3 runs 1/0ga for power and 2 runs of 1/0ga for negative.

(2)-RFT165s components, ...... 4 separate 1 inch tweetersRF T600-2(fronts) Punch 450.4(rear)

Audiocontrol 3.1.

DC power 260amp alternator w/MLA Module

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Also forgot to mention that sometimes my volts will drop to 10-11 when I just got the stereo turned on!

Kenwood Excelon KDX-693 Head Unit

Kinetik HC600

Powerbass 6.75's in front doors

Powerbass 6.75's in rear deck

Powerbass 1000.1D

Powerbass 400.4

2 SA-12 inch Sundown Audio Subs

0 gauge Power Wire and Big 3

Custom Amp Rack

Code Alarm with remote start

Stinger Digital Volt Meter

My build log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/51869-1996-chevy-blazer-build/

My youtube channel http://www.youtube.com/user/kanesdisciple

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dude that is low as hell! i would get 1/0 guage ran through with the big 3 and 1 extra batt to be safe.

2002 Dodge durango 4.7L

Autopage 2 way remote start alarm system

2 AQ 15 Aluminum coils.

1 AQ2200D (soon to be 2).

8.5 cubes tuned to 38hz.

Yellow top under hood.

Kinetik 1800 in rear.

Big 3.

(H/O Alt Soon to come)

Kicker ZX200.4

Kicker 6.5 doors (blown)

RF 6.5 comp set (soon to come)

1 run of Stinger 1/0 guage (soon to be 3)

All of the above is all gone

Currently own a 2000 Pontiac Trans Am WS6

No audio components.

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Truthfully if I were in your shoes right now I'd take out the amp(s) before u damage the amps worse than they already have been.

1998 Ford Explorer Eddie Bauer... New setup, old ride... QX56 is staying stock til I get loud... It's only getting walled off if I don't meet my goal @ SBN.

Pioneer AVIC-N2

(12) 12" RE SXs old model.... (3) AB VFL 500.1 @ 1ohm each

Dual 300amp Ohio Gen alts.... (10) Northstar NSB-125s

26ft3 @ 33hz w/ a ton of port area

156.5 @ 40hz @ dash, Db Drag style / 153.2 Bassrace

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I got a test done today and it looks like its my battery. I used some kind of tester that you hook up to the battery and was able to put a load on the alt with the car running and it stayed good even with the volume turned up to half on the subs. The CCA on my battery is 600 and the test ran at 400, so its going bad!

Kenwood Excelon KDX-693 Head Unit

Kinetik HC600

Powerbass 6.75's in front doors

Powerbass 6.75's in rear deck

Powerbass 1000.1D

Powerbass 400.4

2 SA-12 inch Sundown Audio Subs

0 gauge Power Wire and Big 3

Custom Amp Rack

Code Alarm with remote start

Stinger Digital Volt Meter

My build log http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/51869-1996-chevy-blazer-build/

My youtube channel http://www.youtube.com/user/kanesdisciple

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TAKE THE AMPS OUT BEFORE U FRY THEM

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The set up your talking about would sound great in my Tahoe. Trade you my dog for it. He has one eye but that only makes for bad depth perception so hey so what if he is running into shit, look at it this way he is easy to sneak up ninja style on. (right side only)
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