What about this system?

[Brandon15zzz]

This is my option or well idea?

1. 1 18' AQHDC3 and a AQ2200D

wat box would this setup need wat about a T-line?

or any other suggestions probably goin in the back seat/ trunk

O yea anybody know if the AQ2200D can take 0 gauge inputs?

Edited December 10, 2009 by Brandon15zzz

[Brandon15zzz]

Can anybody see the pole?

[Jared420]

Can anybody see the pole?

I cant see it but I would recommend getting all the same subs. how much power does your amp put out and what kind of box are your subs In now?

[Guest]

amp does like 250x2 probably at 2 ohms stereo.

if your getting 1000 i would definitely take out everything (except for those jl rears haha) and replace it all with better stuff (well budgeted out of course)

[Jared420]

I cant see it but I would recommend getting all the same subs. how much power does your amp put out and what kind of box are your subs In now?

2 15'' audioque sd's and an audioque 1200 amp will only cost around 500 bucks and you should be able to fit a big ass box in that trunk.

[Jared420]

2 15'' audioque sd's and an audioque 1200 amp will only cost around 500 bucks and you should be able to fit a big ass box in that trunk.

I just noticed your choices you wrote, If you lookin to stay around 1000, The aq 2200 wont do anywhere near rated off a stock electrical system. thats the dilemma I am in, I want to upgrade to that amp and a bigger box but Im gonna need a high output alt and a good second battery, that alone is 6-700 ish, and the amps 350 so thats the 1000 gone and you still need your 0 gauge wire, subs and a box.

[Brandon15zzz]

yea but my friend has a hifonics BXi 1600 or 2000 and a zues and he has a six farad cap and he has stock electrical and he says he has no problem with lights dimming or anything like that

[Guest]

your not gonna be able to fit any of your options in your trunk w/o a wall IMO.

why not just go with what Jared said? if you factor in everything including 0 gauge wire, a new headunit, front speakers, wood for box, youd be under $1000.

all of your options youd probably be over 1000.

[Guest]

yea but my friend has a hifonics BXi 1600 or 2000 and a zues and he has a six farad cap and he has stock electrical and he says he has no problem with lights dimming or anything like that

every car is different every alternator is different. he might not even be running those amps full tilt. and tell you friend to take that capacitor out, does nothing but harm.

[Jared420]

yea but my friend has a hifonics BXi 1600 or 2000 and a zues and he has a six farad cap and he has stock electrical and he says he has no problem with lights dimming or anything like that

Lights may not dim or anything but if you are trying to put out 2000 rms your stock electrical system cannot produce the power to do so. Buying an amp with that much power and not providing it what it needs to produce all the power will be a waste. There are threads on here somewhere asking how many watts you can run before you need to start upgrading you electrical. Most people that really know their stuff (I am not one of them when it comes to electrical) say anywhere from 900rms-1200 works fine with stock. I read as many random posts as I can because I want to learn and be able to answer my own questions. I just happen to know about trying to run 2000 rms because i had a few questions and threads on it a couple weeks ago. I was told by a few different people electrical is something you absolutley dont want to skimp on. Those people have about 10+ years of car audio experience.

Im sure someone can explain it better, I just know that you wont be getting anywhere near 2000 watts out of either of those amps without electrical upgrades, and as for capacitors, theres a TON of thread on those from what I understand they are only an add on to a system which is already electrically sound just adds a tiny bit of storage for bass peaks when you have no voltage drop.