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Orion 2400D Freaking out


Luda

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Posted

so finally mounted my BTL back in the box [for the third time] hooked the system back up, and my orion amp turns on, and the ESP and logo light blink in slow unison.

I look it up and slow blink means undervoltage. 13.2V car running, 12.8V car off....

so i scratch my head, power the amp down, and fire her back up, power light is on... but thats it, no output, nothing, just slight green glow from the powerlight.

so i swap my backup hifonics in, and it comes one and pounds away... for about 30S. its not rated for the 1ohm load of the BTL. fair enough.

i hook the orion back up, same shit. i know its finicky about tis ground, so i run a second line to the shock tower bolts, and a third to the OTHER shock tower. still the same shit.

pull the heatsink off the amp, and there is no visible damage, no odd smells or anything.

so hit me with ideas, other then the amp is toast.

2005 Grand PrixSource: StockFronts: Stock 6.5 ComponentsRears: Stock 6x9Subwoofer: FI BTL 12" Fully optionedSubwoofer amplifier: Kenwood KAC-7203 bridged @ 4ΩEnclosure: 3.41cuft tuned to 33hz

Posted
so finally mounted my BTL back in the box [for the third time] hooked the system back up, and my orion amp turns on, and the ESP and logo light blink in slow unison.

I look it up and slow blink means undervoltage. 13.2V car running, 12.8V car off....

so i scratch my head, power the amp down, and fire her back up, power light is on... but thats it, no output, nothing, just slight green glow from the powerlight.

so i swap my backup hifonics in, and it comes one and pounds away... for about 30S. its not rated for the 1ohm load of the BTL. fair enough.

i hook the orion back up, same shit. i know its finicky about tis ground, so i run a second line to the shock tower bolts, and a third to the OTHER shock tower. still the same shit.

pull the heatsink off the amp, and there is no visible damage, no odd smells or anything.

so hit me with ideas, other then the amp is toast.

Did you check your voltage at the amp with a DMM? Also try swapping out the RCAs

2003 CHEVY TRAILBLAZER

AKA The Batmobile

Pioneer 6000UB

Sundown SAZ-3000D

2 Audio Q HDC3's

40' of 1/0 Gauge

2 Big Rear Batteries

A 38 HZ Box

KICK ASS!

Posted

Yeah check voltage at the amp's terminals.

Are you using a rear battery? I've seen a few times where the fuse pops and the rear battery goes flat but everything seems fine up front. Honestly I think you would have got more than 30 seconds out of the Hifonics, even if it's not rated for 1 ohm.

If you don't have a rear battery, check your main fuse... sometimes they can be just partially bad and limit current.

But yeah. Check voltage at the amp :)

goodgrammarbc7.gif

10.x volts fo' life!

Posted
Yeah check voltage at the amp's terminals.

Are you using a rear battery? I've seen a few times where the fuse pops and the rear battery goes flat but everything seems fine up front. Honestly I think you would have got more than 30 seconds out of the Hifonics, even if it's not rated for 1 ohm.

If you don't have a rear battery, check your main fuse... sometimes they can be just partially bad and limit current.

But yeah. Check voltage at the amp :)

voltage at the amp is 12.8V engine off, 14.2V car on. at the orion amp.

The hifonics has been banging away for about a week now, excluding a couple protect incidents on a few extended low note drops, with no problems. After i dropped it down to one channel instead of running it bridged [which is only rated for 4 ohms, and was not happy at all with a 1 ohm load].

Other then the fact that im getting maybe 200W the hifonics is doing great, but it just feels wrong to have a fully loaded BTL on 200W.

and no rear battery at the moment, just the stock on up front.

2005 Grand PrixSource: StockFronts: Stock 6.5 ComponentsRears: Stock 6x9Subwoofer: FI BTL 12" Fully optionedSubwoofer amplifier: Kenwood KAC-7203 bridged @ 4ΩEnclosure: 3.41cuft tuned to 33hz

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