Ndnkobra Posted February 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 (edited) yup. Do you get dimming at idle when you play your music? That was one reason why my girlfriend's alternator died. She jammed too much at idle. Good thing she has a DC Power alt now. 14.8 volts is the lowest her car gets with stock battery and 1500 watts. All 4 gauge wires. well shit, mine must be bad because i get dimming at full tilt. I cant sit at idle and crank up the volume for more than 2 minutes and then just shut the car off, the battery would be dead. Edited February 12, 2010 by Ndnkobra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miakehl Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 Ah i see, so i'd have to pound it before and after to see a difference. And keeping a smaller power wire that connects to the amp would be fine too, correct? I wouldnt have to beef the wire up on that since its a 4ga wire, and the amp will draw a max of 120A of current, which is well within its range of capability. While you are correct, if your doing a big 3 anyway, I'd swap out for some larger cable anyway. Just in case you want to go bigger later. Personally, I'd feel a lot better running 1500w rms through a 1/0, but I like to overbuild things rather than underbuild for obvious reasons. Then again, I have my 500w rms amp putting out 3x what it's supposed to on 4ga and a stock charging system sooooooo........ Quote [HOONIGAN]* '01 Ford F-250 LWBJVC KD-R950BT / Alpine MRV-M500 / (2) SWA-10s4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slim2fattycake Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 yeah, because even though your alternator is rated at 100 amps, that is at max and not idle. Her mustang's alternator was weak at idle as well. Quote SPL-Lab REPCar: 1996 Honda Accord F22B1 CoupeSuspension: Megan Racing Full Street Coilover Dampener KitAlternator: DC Power XP 270Batteries: XS Power D5100 & D3100Wiring: KnuKonceptz & 2/0 Welding cableHeadunit: Kenwood KDC-MP642UComponents: Hybrid Audio ClarusAmplifers: Lanzar OPTI250X4Subwoofer: 2 Sundown Audio E8.v2Deadener: Sound Deadener ShowdownSPL Meter: SPL-Lab RTA Pro meterWant an SPL meter for a lot less than the cost of a Termlab, but just as accurate and has the same features? PM me.CA ref: (enellz, 92c1v1c, el_chupo_, Thixx, Kraudio12, SethPhillips, NJack2AF, JamesKarr, ExpoSport, 01 S 10, wgsj_fortvalley, fast306stang, Lakota, blackga, TheLow, adrian1185, the727kid, rudy, sundownz, lmllopez, traksta15, gentlejax, satchel50207, Bigthangs, Goindef154)CACO ref: (extremechevyman67, ghostmechanic, FatBoy2, TheMan007, bdufner, 350zkid, ironb, bmansbach)SSA ref as phi: ( shizzzon, porkchop, onebadmonte, stevemead, TRP, ///M5, denim)SMD ref: (DC Power Rob, Nathan@XSPOWER, Jman08)And then some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ndnkobra Posted February 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 I understand that, but if i'm driving around with dimming lights with the alternator actually doing work, that must mean something is going on. Its probably all the electrical components in the car drawing so much current. I'm hoping the Big 3 will take care of it (probably not), but what could i do to prevent any future dimming before i'd have to resort to another alt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slim2fattycake Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 (edited) battery upgrade after big 3 especially if you already messed up a battery. Edited February 12, 2010 by slim2fattycake Quote SPL-Lab REPCar: 1996 Honda Accord F22B1 CoupeSuspension: Megan Racing Full Street Coilover Dampener KitAlternator: DC Power XP 270Batteries: XS Power D5100 & D3100Wiring: KnuKonceptz & 2/0 Welding cableHeadunit: Kenwood KDC-MP642UComponents: Hybrid Audio ClarusAmplifers: Lanzar OPTI250X4Subwoofer: 2 Sundown Audio E8.v2Deadener: Sound Deadener ShowdownSPL Meter: SPL-Lab RTA Pro meterWant an SPL meter for a lot less than the cost of a Termlab, but just as accurate and has the same features? PM me.CA ref: (enellz, 92c1v1c, el_chupo_, Thixx, Kraudio12, SethPhillips, NJack2AF, JamesKarr, ExpoSport, 01 S 10, wgsj_fortvalley, fast306stang, Lakota, blackga, TheLow, adrian1185, the727kid, rudy, sundownz, lmllopez, traksta15, gentlejax, satchel50207, Bigthangs, Goindef154)CACO ref: (extremechevyman67, ghostmechanic, FatBoy2, TheMan007, bdufner, 350zkid, ironb, bmansbach)SSA ref as phi: ( shizzzon, porkchop, onebadmonte, stevemead, TRP, ///M5, denim)SMD ref: (DC Power Rob, Nathan@XSPOWER, Jman08)And then some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ndnkobra Posted February 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 Ah alright, that makes more sense. But it also makes me think, wont i mess up the larger battery as well? The only difference i see is how much current a larger battery would output, which is good, but it still takes longer to charge. Unless i'm missing a very important factor in a large battery vs. a stock one Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Miakehl Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 Ah alright, that makes more sense. But it also makes me think, wont i mess up the larger battery as well? The only difference i see is how much current a larger battery would output, which is good, but it still takes longer to charge. Unless i'm missing a very important factor in a large battery vs. a stock one The materials they're made of. Wet cells use lead suspended in an electrolyte. AGM(Absorbed Glass Matt) batteries are made of win and Jesus or some shit. They charge and discharge quicker and have a almost non existent ESR. Also I could just be stupid and have no idea what I'm talking about, all I know is they fucking work. Quote [HOONIGAN]* '01 Ford F-250 LWBJVC KD-R950BT / Alpine MRV-M500 / (2) SWA-10s4 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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