Ndnkobra Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 Hey guys, since i dont have a digital volt meter to actually show me what my voltage is before and after the big 3, could i just check DCV of my battery on a multimeter while the car is running before i add 0/1 wire, and after i'm done with the install, do the same thing again to check for an increase in voltage? And to prevent my own disappointment, how much voltage increase should i really expect? I'm assuming no more than 1/2 to 1 volt Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czman30 Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 Hey guys, since i dont have a digital volt meter to actually show me what my voltage is before and after the big 3, could i just check DCV of my battery on a multimeter while the car is running before i add 0/1 wire, and after i'm done with the install, do the same thing again to check for an increase in voltage? And to prevent my own disappointment, how much voltage increase should i really expect? I'm assuming no more than 1/2 to 1 volt well you get about 25% increase in voltage Quote Introduce a no fat chicks in the whip rule. Im gonna have tech force make up a sign that says that and put it on my car lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
czman30 Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 Hey guys, since i dont have a digital volt meter to actually show me what my voltage is before and after the big 3, could i just check DCV of my battery on a multimeter while the car is running before i add 0/1 wire, and after i'm done with the install, do the same thing again to check for an increase in voltage? And to prevent my own disappointment, how much voltage increase should i really expect? I'm assuming no more than 1/2 to 1 volt And why dont u go buy one Quote Introduce a no fat chicks in the whip rule. Im gonna have tech force make up a sign that says that and put it on my car lol Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ndnkobra Posted February 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 And why dont u go buy one I probably should, they arent that expensive. And really a 25% increase in voltage? Assuming that my cars starting voltage is 13.6V before the big 3 and 25% of that is about 3 volts. Thats actually a lot more than i was expecting Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EricR Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 well you get about 25% increase in voltage Dude, don't go around giving advice when you don't know WTF you're talking about. To the OP it all depends on your current electrical system. I would say anywhere from .4-.8 increase. Quote i was thinking leave the 12 sitting in the box in the hole and duck tape from the bottom of the sub to the bottom of the baffle so the sub doesnt free air. would that work? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ndnkobra Posted February 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 aha, i knew it was too good for just beefing up wires. .4 to .8 sounds way more reasonable to me. And what factors would i have to consider in my current electrical system? The stock alt itself is rated at 100A, and its a stock battery. The overall system is 1200W, so i'm thinking a HO alt might not be necessary, but i could be wrong. People are saying just buy a bigger battery, but i feel like that wont solve the problem. It'll put out more current than my stock battery, but my alt still has to charge it longer than my stock battery. And my system has already killed a cell in one stock battery, i dont want to make that mistake again Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tristan560 Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 Wow... Quote <u>99 Jimmy SLT 4WD</u> Systemless. <u>99 Grand Prix GTP</u> DC XL 12 on 1.5k tuned lowwwwww. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slim2fattycake Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 HAHA. You're going to stay the same. It will show a difference when you put a load on the alt and battery. Damn, I wished upgrading wire could give me 25% voltage increase. Quote SPL-Lab REPCar: 1996 Honda Accord F22B1 CoupeSuspension: Megan Racing Full Street Coilover Dampener KitAlternator: DC Power XP 270Batteries: XS Power D5100 & D3100Wiring: KnuKonceptz & 2/0 Welding cableHeadunit: Kenwood KDC-MP642UComponents: Hybrid Audio ClarusAmplifers: Lanzar OPTI250X4Subwoofer: 2 Sundown Audio E8.v2Deadener: Sound Deadener ShowdownSPL Meter: SPL-Lab RTA Pro meterWant an SPL meter for a lot less than the cost of a Termlab, but just as accurate and has the same features? PM me.CA ref: (enellz, 92c1v1c, el_chupo_, Thixx, Kraudio12, SethPhillips, NJack2AF, JamesKarr, ExpoSport, 01 S 10, wgsj_fortvalley, fast306stang, Lakota, blackga, TheLow, adrian1185, the727kid, rudy, sundownz, lmllopez, traksta15, gentlejax, satchel50207, Bigthangs, Goindef154)CACO ref: (extremechevyman67, ghostmechanic, FatBoy2, TheMan007, bdufner, 350zkid, ironb, bmansbach)SSA ref as phi: ( shizzzon, porkchop, onebadmonte, stevemead, TRP, ///M5, denim)SMD ref: (DC Power Rob, Nathan@XSPOWER, Jman08)And then some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Ndnkobra Posted February 12, 2010 Author Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 (edited) HAHA. You're going to stay the same. It will show a difference when you put a load on the alt and battery. Damn, I wished upgrading wire could give me 25% voltage increase. Ah i see, so i'd have to pound it before and after to see a difference. And keeping a smaller power wire that connects to the amp would be fine too, correct? I wouldnt have to beef the wire up on that since its a 4ga wire, and the amp will draw a max of 120A of current, which is well within its range of capability. Edited February 12, 2010 by Ndnkobra Quote Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
slim2fattycake Posted February 12, 2010 Report Share Posted February 12, 2010 yup. Do you get dimming at idle when you play your music? That was one reason why my girlfriend's alternator died. She jammed too much at idle. Good thing she has a DC Power alt now. 14.8 volts is the lowest her car gets with stock battery and 1500 watts. All 4 gauge wires. Quote SPL-Lab REPCar: 1996 Honda Accord F22B1 CoupeSuspension: Megan Racing Full Street Coilover Dampener KitAlternator: DC Power XP 270Batteries: XS Power D5100 & D3100Wiring: KnuKonceptz & 2/0 Welding cableHeadunit: Kenwood KDC-MP642UComponents: Hybrid Audio ClarusAmplifers: Lanzar OPTI250X4Subwoofer: 2 Sundown Audio E8.v2Deadener: Sound Deadener ShowdownSPL Meter: SPL-Lab RTA Pro meterWant an SPL meter for a lot less than the cost of a Termlab, but just as accurate and has the same features? PM me.CA ref: (enellz, 92c1v1c, el_chupo_, Thixx, Kraudio12, SethPhillips, NJack2AF, JamesKarr, ExpoSport, 01 S 10, wgsj_fortvalley, fast306stang, Lakota, blackga, TheLow, adrian1185, the727kid, rudy, sundownz, lmllopez, traksta15, gentlejax, satchel50207, Bigthangs, Goindef154)CACO ref: (extremechevyman67, ghostmechanic, FatBoy2, TheMan007, bdufner, 350zkid, ironb, bmansbach)SSA ref as phi: ( shizzzon, porkchop, onebadmonte, stevemead, TRP, ///M5, denim)SMD ref: (DC Power Rob, Nathan@XSPOWER, Jman08)And then some. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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