Is there any reason not to...

[JZeFF]

So im doing my big 3 and reinstalling some stuff... Didnt wanna start multiple topics, but here is a few questions

1. My battery is in the rear of my car under the back seat, is there any reason not to connect my negative distribution block directly to the battery?

I currently have it hooked to the frame, but i cant see why hooking it straight to the battery would be a bad thing..

2. I currently have a shit pioneer sub amp pushing like 200wrms, and a DAT 4125 pushing my door speakers... I have a Lanzar 1.6 Farad capacitor hooked up to the Pioneer amp. Part of me is debating just removing the capacitor all together, and part of me is debating putting it on the DAT instead of the Pioneer. I am having engine noise problems, i cant see the cap causing them, but i also know caps are kinda pointless.... i plan on getting a few kinetics this summer, i just dont have the money right now... So what should i do?

A. Remove the Cap

B. Leave it on the low power Pioneer sub amp

C. Put the cap on the DAT 4 channel?

3. I currently have a remote wire running from the head unit to the trunk, its running directly next to the RCA cables, will this cause alternator whine? Should i relocate the Remote wire so its not right next to the RCA's? Also, my sub/front/rear RCA's are all right next to each other, do they need to be separated?

4. My remote wire is simply split and running to both of my amps, is this a problem? I just don't understand what relay i need to buy from Radio shack, and to be honest... when i get one, i have zero idea on how to hook it up.

This is all pre-work for the real work this summer... cant push 3000 watts without the big three =]... Plus im glad i did it, i found out my interior carpet was soaked.. and im still looking for a leak.. fun fun.

Thanks for any answers on 1-4, i appreciate it fellas.

[raytard]

you can wire right to the negative of the battery instead of ground. you can split the remote wire without worrying (mine turned on 4 amps and a stinger voltage meter with no problem. 2 definately isnt an issue) i'd throw the cap on the highs amp and see if it helps. if not throw it away, its def not doing anything for the sub amp.

and as for the leak, check all the rubbers in the car (door gaskets, around rear window, side windows, etc. believe it or not water gets in the gasket between the window and door, leaks down the inside of the door, and comes out a little drain hole at the bottom. if it gets clogged somehow it just pools up and leaks INSIDE the car from behind the door panel. i've seen it happen a few times...

[Boon]

'Moving' the cap won't change a thing. You can't put a cap 'on an amp' - it's across the +12v and GND of your car and those are common to the entire vehicle, unless you have a really really complex setup.

[JZeFF]

Here is how i have it... Positive and negative both go to distribution blocks.. the DAT is hooked up directly to the dist. blocks.

From the dist blocks i have 4gauge running to the cap, then from the cap i have 8 gauge going to the pioneer amp.

But i guess i understand what your saying, is the cap hooked up to the entire system, or is it only "benefiting" the pioneer amp?

Your saying its the whole system.

But if someone could answer #3 for me i would appreciate it.

[J00bles]

i have my rcas, my remote turn on wire, and my stinger voltage meter "power" wires all running from my dash to my trunk together. i have no alternator noise at all in my signal.

is your head unit a pioneer? they're notorious for bad signals..

[JZeFF]

Its actually not a pioneer, its an alpine 9886... but i read previously about grounding the RCA's, and i did it... made no difference, lol.

Im gonna fuck around with it some more tomorrow after i find/fix my leak... im thinking maybe hooking in directly to the battery negative will help eliminate the noise.

If that doesnt work i will buy some new RCA's, the 4channel Karma ones from Knu look nice.