Chris Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 I drop about 300-400 RPM wen the bass hits and im at a redlight. And ive done the big 3 and have a newer battery. So i think the next thing to do would be to get a bigger/better alt. Yeah man, my car even with the big 3 & big ass battery in the back still dims & loses rpms when I'm at a standstill. Thats only with it on close to full tilt though... Whiteboi---I know it might suck, but you may have to turn it down at the lights unless you upgrade the big 3, get a 2nd batt, and/or bigger alt bro. Quote 4 15" FI Q D2's in 12 cubes tuned to 32hz 1- T1000.1bd's 3 Maxx 29 deep cycles 4 runs of 1/0 gauge -Big 3 -Trunk sealed off from the cabin Custom 15.8 dual-volt switching MLA module All in a CAR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
white_boi_audio Posted June 22, 2007 Author Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 Yeah man, my car even with the big 3 & big ass battery in the back still dims & loses rpms when I'm at a standstill. Thats only with it on close to full tilt though...Whiteboi---I know it might suck, but you may have to turn it down at the lights unless you upgrade the big 3, get a 2nd batt, and/or bigger alt bro. hey how much do u think it would cost me for a better battery like a red/yellow top the front cause i dont have room for another battery and then doing the big three and a better alt how much u think about 250 300 dollars Quote "MY RIDE" 1987 Chevy Cavalier Z24 2.8L V6 -- CB Radio with PA speaker Head Unit: 7 inch Jensen Flip-out -- Speakers: 4 Visonik 6 1/2s and 4 Visonik 6x9s Subwoofer: One Audiobahn 18 - Sub Amp: Power Acoustik OV1-2000d 2000 watt monoblock amp -- Battery in back - Kinetic HC600 -- Sub box: Custom built 5 cubic foot tuned to 30 hertz Coming soon: Bigger Highs Amp, Power inverter "WhItE bOi AuDiO" "FEAR THE DUCK" Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 (edited) I'd say for a good yellowtop, 110amp alt & to do your big 3 in 4gauge, figure around 400bucks. You sure you can't fit a spare in the wheel well or something somehow?! Edited June 22, 2007 by Chris Quote 4 15" FI Q D2's in 12 cubes tuned to 32hz 1- T1000.1bd's 3 Maxx 29 deep cycles 4 runs of 1/0 gauge -Big 3 -Trunk sealed off from the cabin Custom 15.8 dual-volt switching MLA module All in a CAR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cdizzle Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 I'd say for a good yellowtop, 110amp alt & to do your big 3 in 4gauge, figure around 400bucks.You sure you can't fit a spare in the wheel well or something somehow?! I was also looking to do a big three with an alt around 160 amp, I was going to go buy some 1 or 0 gauge wire but why do you recommend to him to do it in 4 gauge? I am running that F2800 btw, but looking to upgrade in a month or so after I get my engine and tranny rebuilt next week... Quote Damn Thiefs Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Chris Posted June 22, 2007 Report Share Posted June 22, 2007 (edited) I was also looking to do a big three with an alt around 160 amp, I was going to go buy some 1 or 0 gauge wire but why do you recommend to him to do it in 4 gauge? I am running that F2800 btw, but looking to upgrade in a month or so after I get my engine and tranny rebuilt next week... Because if you have a stock alt, or one that only puts out 110amps, 4gauge is plenty especially with the power both of you are running. Heck, I'll be running close to 3Krms & have mine done in 4gauge plus you leave your factory 8 or 4gauge wires there too, so technically it amounts to like 2 or 0gauge anyways. If you have the room though, more is always better! Edited June 22, 2007 by Chris Quote 4 15" FI Q D2's in 12 cubes tuned to 32hz 1- T1000.1bd's 3 Maxx 29 deep cycles 4 runs of 1/0 gauge -Big 3 -Trunk sealed off from the cabin Custom 15.8 dual-volt switching MLA module All in a CAR. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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