Chris Posted June 22, 2007 Report Posted June 22, 2007 I drop about 300-400 RPM wen the bass hits and im at a redlight. And ive done the big 3 and have a newer battery. So i think the next thing to do would be to get a bigger/better alt. Yeah man, my car even with the big 3 & big ass battery in the back still dims & loses rpms when I'm at a standstill. Thats only with it on close to full tilt though... Whiteboi---I know it might suck, but you may have to turn it down at the lights unless you upgrade the big 3, get a 2nd batt, and/or bigger alt bro. Quote 4 15" FI Q D2's in 12 cubes tuned to 32hz 1- T1000.1bd's 3 Maxx 29 deep cycles 4 runs of 1/0 gauge -Big 3 -Trunk sealed off from the cabin Custom 15.8 dual-volt switching MLA module All in a CAR.
white_boi_audio Posted June 22, 2007 Author Report Posted June 22, 2007 Yeah man, my car even with the big 3 & big ass battery in the back still dims & loses rpms when I'm at a standstill. Thats only with it on close to full tilt though...Whiteboi---I know it might suck, but you may have to turn it down at the lights unless you upgrade the big 3, get a 2nd batt, and/or bigger alt bro. hey how much do u think it would cost me for a better battery like a red/yellow top the front cause i dont have room for another battery and then doing the big three and a better alt how much u think about 250 300 dollars Quote "MY RIDE" 1987 Chevy Cavalier Z24 2.8L V6 -- CB Radio with PA speaker Head Unit: 7 inch Jensen Flip-out -- Speakers: 4 Visonik 6 1/2s and 4 Visonik 6x9s Subwoofer: One Audiobahn 18 - Sub Amp: Power Acoustik OV1-2000d 2000 watt monoblock amp -- Battery in back - Kinetic HC600 -- Sub box: Custom built 5 cubic foot tuned to 30 hertz Coming soon: Bigger Highs Amp, Power inverter "WhItE bOi AuDiO" "FEAR THE DUCK"
Chris Posted June 22, 2007 Report Posted June 22, 2007 (edited) I'd say for a good yellowtop, 110amp alt & to do your big 3 in 4gauge, figure around 400bucks. You sure you can't fit a spare in the wheel well or something somehow?! Edited June 22, 2007 by Chris Quote 4 15" FI Q D2's in 12 cubes tuned to 32hz 1- T1000.1bd's 3 Maxx 29 deep cycles 4 runs of 1/0 gauge -Big 3 -Trunk sealed off from the cabin Custom 15.8 dual-volt switching MLA module All in a CAR.
Cdizzle Posted June 22, 2007 Report Posted June 22, 2007 I'd say for a good yellowtop, 110amp alt & to do your big 3 in 4gauge, figure around 400bucks.You sure you can't fit a spare in the wheel well or something somehow?! I was also looking to do a big three with an alt around 160 amp, I was going to go buy some 1 or 0 gauge wire but why do you recommend to him to do it in 4 gauge? I am running that F2800 btw, but looking to upgrade in a month or so after I get my engine and tranny rebuilt next week... Quote Damn Thiefs
Chris Posted June 22, 2007 Report Posted June 22, 2007 (edited) I was also looking to do a big three with an alt around 160 amp, I was going to go buy some 1 or 0 gauge wire but why do you recommend to him to do it in 4 gauge? I am running that F2800 btw, but looking to upgrade in a month or so after I get my engine and tranny rebuilt next week... Because if you have a stock alt, or one that only puts out 110amps, 4gauge is plenty especially with the power both of you are running. Heck, I'll be running close to 3Krms & have mine done in 4gauge plus you leave your factory 8 or 4gauge wires there too, so technically it amounts to like 2 or 0gauge anyways. If you have the room though, more is always better! Edited June 22, 2007 by Chris Quote 4 15" FI Q D2's in 12 cubes tuned to 32hz 1- T1000.1bd's 3 Maxx 29 deep cycles 4 runs of 1/0 gauge -Big 3 -Trunk sealed off from the cabin Custom 15.8 dual-volt switching MLA module All in a CAR.
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.