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ARE MY BATTERIES WIRED RIGHT


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i have my big 3 done 1/0 then i have my run of 1/0 to the back going from my xs power d5100r to a 250 amp fuse up front to a 250 amp fuse at the back. then from the fuse to the d3400 and to 2 more fuses finally to the amps my amps. is this correct?

do i not need 2 fuses between the battries any help would be appreciated

current set-up

kenwood ddx 712

clarion eq

focal 165 k2p front

focal 165v2 rear

2 re audio sexxx 12

us amps md3d

us amps md42

1 optima yellow top (rear)

1 xs power 5100r (front)

big 3 and 1 run 1/0 stinger wire

my build

my rebuild

smd2.gifduck.jpg

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I would recommend fuses between batteries. It seems good to me

starter-fuse-fuse-bank-fuse-amp

On 5/8/2011 at 7:38 PM, Kranny said:
On 5/8/2011 at 7:35 PM, 'Maxim' said:

It hurts me inside when I read stuff like this and remember you're 15

LMFAO so true

:blush:

Mitsubishi 3000GT (Old Build)

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: (2) McLaren Audio MLT-2 Tweeters & (4) PRV Audio MR Series Neo 6.5" Mids

Substage: 4 15" Hybrid Subs - Tantric Motors & Sundown Softies

Amps: Banda 2.4D Amp (Tweets), American Bass VFL 350.4 (Mids), and (2) Ampere 3800s

Electrical :Singer 260A Alt & JY Power Lithium

 

2005 Chevy Colorado Ext Cab

Headunit: Pioneer 80PRS

Frontstage: 4 PRV 700Ti Tweets & 6 10" Delta Mids on 3000wrms

Substage: 6 Fi BTL 18s in a 4th Order Walkthrough on 3 Wolfram 4500s

Electrical: Singer "390" and JY Power

My Official Feedback Thread

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I would recommend fuses between batteries. It seems good to me

starter-fuse-fuse-bank-fuse-amp

x2

Legal TL scores145.6 on the dash sealed up in the low 40hz area with the port out145.5 on the dash sealed up @30hz with the port inless then 1k clamped on a 3.5k!

Why would you EVER WANT flex?
huh?...flex is what can make the lows lower and more air being pushed correct?
jeff_zps9bc81ace.jpg

me_zps0fb5a5b4.jpgMy FeedbackJeep-BuildlogPT LOSER buildlog

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