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quick question about wiring...


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I put in a yellow top optima battery the other day, wired up 0 gauge with 2 250A fuses to the front battery. The lights in my car still dim when the beat hits, I am going to the big 3 hopefully that solves it... My question is can I add the 0 gauge wire to go only the the back battery instead of the front? Would this solve the dimming problem? My other solution that I thought of was to just get rid of the front and put the optima in the front and run the big 3... would that be better?

My stuff

'06 Scion xA:

-Alpine iDa-x100

-Alpine KTP-445 Power Pack

-Polk Audio db6501 (front components)

-Polk Audio db651 (back coaxials)

-2 RE Audio SEX12D4s

-Cadence F1200-1D

- Custom box tuned to 33Hz

- Kinetik HC1400

- 50 ft2 of Audio Technix sound deadner

- Big 3

My photography page

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*sigh* regular headlights (and almost any type of light) WILL DIM whenever the voltage drops, enough said. the only way around this to almost NEVER have dimming headlights again is to switch to HID's.

do the big 3 and you should see a tad voltage increase/less voltage drop while playing, but its not gonna fix it permanently. the only way to fix voltage drop is to get an alternator that outputs more current aka High Output.

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I put in a yellow top optima battery the other day, wired up 0 gauge with 2 250A fuses to the front battery. The lights in my car still dim when the beat hits, I am going to the big 3 hopefully that solves it... My question is can I add the 0 gauge wire to go only the the back battery instead of the front? Would this solve the dimming problem? My other solution that I thought of was to just get rid of the front and put the optima in the front and run the big 3... would that be better?

what kinda amps are you running? i would do the big 3 in all 0 and run 0 from the front bat to the back, keep both batteries. may i ask why you went with optima? its a little late now but i woulda gone with xs power. alittle more pricey but totaly worth it

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*sigh* regular headlights (and almost any type of light) WILL DIM whenever the voltage drops, enough said. the only way around this to almost NEVER have dimming headlights again is to switch to HID's.

do the big 3 and you should see a tad voltage increase/less voltage drop while playing, but its not gonna fix it permanently. the only way to fix voltage drop is to get an alternator that outputs more current aka High Output.

I have LEDs in my car, they dim and it's annoying I could care less about my headlights

My stuff

'06 Scion xA:

-Alpine iDa-x100

-Alpine KTP-445 Power Pack

-Polk Audio db6501 (front components)

-Polk Audio db651 (back coaxials)

-2 RE Audio SEX12D4s

-Cadence F1200-1D

- Custom box tuned to 33Hz

- Kinetik HC1400

- 50 ft2 of Audio Technix sound deadner

- Big 3

My photography page

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what kinda amps are you running? i would do the big 3 in all 0 and run 0 from the front bat to the back, keep both batteries. may i ask why you went with optima? its a little late now but i woulda gone with xs power. alittle more pricey but totaly worth it

Cadence TXA-1000D and moneys tight got a good deal on the yellow top so i bought it... idk if i could fit 2 ring terminals on my alternator... but the stock wiring (8-10 gauge) is still attached so if I plugged up the 0 gauge to the battery in the back wouldn't both be fine... I just think my amp is still drawing power from the front battery because they are connected...

Edited by manofthehour

My stuff

'06 Scion xA:

-Alpine iDa-x100

-Alpine KTP-445 Power Pack

-Polk Audio db6501 (front components)

-Polk Audio db651 (back coaxials)

-2 RE Audio SEX12D4s

-Cadence F1200-1D

- Custom box tuned to 33Hz

- Kinetik HC1400

- 50 ft2 of Audio Technix sound deadner

- Big 3

My photography page

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Youll never get rid of it unless you have a pretty decent battery bank and if needed a high output alternator. Big three helps a little but isnt too effective. what amps are you running?

ONE AMP CADENCE TXA-1000D its in my sig.

one on left goes to amp (4 gauge) right one goes to battery (0 gauge)

0703001353.jpg

Edited by manofthehour

My stuff

'06 Scion xA:

-Alpine iDa-x100

-Alpine KTP-445 Power Pack

-Polk Audio db6501 (front components)

-Polk Audio db651 (back coaxials)

-2 RE Audio SEX12D4s

-Cadence F1200-1D

- Custom box tuned to 33Hz

- Kinetik HC1400

- 50 ft2 of Audio Technix sound deadner

- Big 3

My photography page

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I have LEDs in my car, they dim and it's annoying I could care less about my headlights

yes no shit. like i said, 99% of lights will dim when the voltage drops. get a high output alternator if its that big of a problem for you

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yes no shit. like i said, 99% of lights will dim when the voltage drops. get a high output alternator if its that big of a problem for you

OK smart ass I DONT HAVE THE MONEY! jeez. I'm asking If I were to disconnect the two batteries and just run the alt to the back with 0 gauge and keep the stock wiring wouldn't that eliminate the dimming because ALL LIGHTS are wired to the front battery and the amp is wired to the back one...

My stuff

'06 Scion xA:

-Alpine iDa-x100

-Alpine KTP-445 Power Pack

-Polk Audio db6501 (front components)

-Polk Audio db651 (back coaxials)

-2 RE Audio SEX12D4s

-Cadence F1200-1D

- Custom box tuned to 33Hz

- Kinetik HC1400

- 50 ft2 of Audio Technix sound deadner

- Big 3

My photography page

Link to comment
Share on other sites

OK smart ass I DONT HAVE THE MONEY! jeez. I'm asking If I were to disconnect the two batteries and just run the alt to the back with 0 gauge and keep the stock wiring wouldn't that eliminate the dimming because ALL LIGHTS are wired to the front battery and the amp is wired to the back one...

if you wire your two batteries together then everything in the car is running off the 2 batteries + the alternator. starting your car uses both batteries. running the alternator all the way to the back battery is absolutely pointless and a waste of time and energy.

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