Should I ?

[Reaper]

even with that discount code you can get some of that stuff cheaper. or get different equipment that's just as good. just have to look around.

Edited July 18, 2010 by Reaper

[stunninsabatino]

What about a bandpass box for the 2 Fosgates?

my lil bro had 2 JL 12's in a bandpass and it

sounded sick, i also had 2 pioneer 10's in a

bandpass in a 79' Chevy and i loved it...

[BJD3]

Really feelin that Fosgate combo, looks good, and ive heard Fosgate subs, love em too, but should i go with 10's or 12's?

If i go with 10's i already have a sealed box to go w/ it, but with the 12's i won't have a box, i can make one (I do Home Renovation)

but i don't know how to make a specifically tuned box. Anyone kno how to make a tuned box or can give me some tips???

Look at the post again and see how you'll like that...

There are some people on the site that you can pay to make a design for you. Some others will do it for free.

Look for a box somewhere around 3.6 cubic feet. As for tuning NeoFrog in the "everything you need to know about car audio" thread is the best explaination I've seen yet.

What should I tune my box to?

Here's my advice to you. Unless you are building for competition, your best bet is to build for daily listening. 99.9% of the time, you will be driving around listening to your music whether it be low low bass or double kick metal. Do what you will enjoy the most. Don't get all hellbent on numbers that really don't mean anything unless you're a big competitor. Having a high SPL on SMD won't make you popular.

For trunk cars that play everything, tuning mid to high 30s will cover a wide range. You'll hit hard on metal and the trunk will take care of the low end extension (facing backwards). If it's facing forward and sealed off from the trunk, you will probably want to stick to low to mid 30s since you'll have nothing to load off of but still want to play everything.

If you are listening to strictly rap and slowed music, you will be fine from 28-32hZ tuning depending on your taste. This is a WIDE range so pay attention to song peaks to get an idea where you stand. While people can tell you their favorite tuning, it means NOTHING in your car.

For walls, if you are asking this question, you probably shouldn't have one. Facing any ports into a large volume of air like the cab will change the acoustics of everything and will sound nothing like a trunk tuning. My personal taste in a CAR is having a 36hZ peak, which (for me) requires a 32hZ tuning and sounds great on ALL music. Every car is different.

EDIT: One should always give credit when using someone else's work.

This came from CarAudio's "Free Box Plans" thread. Thanks to Moe Lester.

Edited July 18, 2010 by BJD3

[BJD3]

What about a bandpass box for the 2 Fosgates?

my lil bro had 2 JL 12's in a bandpass and it

sounded sick, i also had 2 pioneer 10's in a

bandpass in a 79' Chevy and i loved it...

A good bandpass is hella hard to design, and it has to be done on a per sub basis; you can't just pick up an off the shelf bandpass, stick a sub in it and expect it to sound good/not destroy the sub.

even with that discount code you can get some of that stuff cheaper. or get different equipment that's just as good. just have to look around.

A 500 wrms mono amp for $107 or a 150 watt (75 x 2 @ 2 ohm) two channel for $60?

If you find those, please point me to them.

And note, these are amplifiers that WILL do rated RMS, and a little more.

EDIT: And those are shipped prices.

Edited July 18, 2010 by BJD3

[Reaper]

actually i was referring to the p2 you can get p3's for 99 bucks. and that wiring kit. even with discount code that's like 60 bucks can still get that cheaper.

good price on the amps your right. but relax i said some stuff did not say all.

Edited July 18, 2010 by Reaper

[stunninsabatino]

A 500 watt mono amp for $107 or a 150 watt two channel for $60?

If you find those, please point me to them.

And note, these are amplifiers that WILL do rated RMS, and a little more.

EDIT: And those are shipped prices.

Those prices are damn good, and thanks, but i have a question.

(serious questions lol)

So a "Monoblock Amp" puts out its actual wattage?

and Whats the diffrence between a Class d amp and a Class a-b amp?

The other day i was at the store and met some guy who was bumpin, and found out he had a

2000w Rockford Fosgate amp for sale for $200. He looked at my system and said i had a "Class A-B Amp"

and the Fosgate he had was a "Class D" and it would literally tear my subs apart...

As u can tell im not a stereo pro, but more of a stereo enthusiast who's learning...

[BJD3]

actually i was referring to the p2 you can get p3's for 99 bucks. and that wiring kit. even with discount code that's like 60 bucks can still get that cheaper.

good price on the amps your right. but relax i said some stuff did not say all.

Those aren't from authorized dealers though. If you needed to use the warranty, you'd be screwed.

Where do you find a quality 4 gauge dual amplifier wiring kit for less than $60. I paid almost $90 for my 4 gauge single wiring kit.

So a "Monoblock Amp" puts out its actual wattage?

All a "monoblock amp" is AFAIK is an amplifier with a single channel. It isn't a stereo amplifier which has two channels (like headphones), or a 4 channel. You can have monoblock amplifiers that lie about their ratings as well.

and Whats the diffrence between a Class d amp and a Class a-b amp?

From the "Everything you need to know about car audio" thread:

Amplification Classes All sound is a sinosoidial waveform. It has alternating peaks and valleys. The center point of each wave is the zero, or switching point that separates the positive (top) from the negative (bottom) portion of each wave. When a tube or transistor amplifier operates in Class A, the output tubes or transistors amplify the entire waveform without splitting it into positive and negative halves. In Class AB, used in the overwhelming majority of amplifier designs, the signal is split into two halves, positive and negative, and each half is sent to a tube or transistor circuit for amplification. Both sides work in tandem, and the two halves are recombined at the output section to reconstruct the whole signal. This technique increases the amount of power that can be applied, but increases distortion. Class A amps usually provide lower, often imperceptable distortion, but at the expense of reduced power output.Class D or High Current operation is essentially rapid switching, hence the term switching power amplifier. Here the output devices are rapidly switched on and off at least twice for each cycle. Theoretically, since the output devices are either completely on or completely off they do not dissipate any power. If a device is on there is a large amount of current flowing through it, but all the voltage is across the load, so the power dissipated by the device is zero; and when the device is off, the voltage is large, but the current is zero. Consequently, class D operation (often, but not necessarrily digital) is theoretically 100% efficient, but this requires zero on-impedance switches with infinitely fast switching times -- a product yet to be made; meanwhile designs do exist with efficiencies approaching 90%. This is a design that is increasimgly popular for use in bass systems, where maximum power is necessary, and slightly elevated levels of distortion are easily tolerated.

Edited July 19, 2010 by BJD3