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Would a port like this work?


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the port can just go all across the top of the enclose (end to end), 3.5 inches tall (which will give me about 18^2 inches per cube) and it will be 35" long, giving me a tuning fq around 33 HZ

How wide is the box? Try to keep a 9:1 port ratio or lower. If the port is gonna be 3.5" tall, it shouldn't be more than 31.5" wide. Might run into port noise if its over a 9:1, but in the back of an SUV, it probably wont matter much.

Eric is right though, a 90* angle at the "mouth" of the port is bad. Do the lower port, then go up the back wall if necessary

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How wide is the box? Try to keep a 9:1 port ratio or lower. If the port is gonna be 3.5" tall, it shouldn't be more than 31.5" wide. Might run into port noise if its over a 9:1, but in the back of an SUV, it probably wont matter much.

Eric is right though, a 90* angle at the "mouth" of the port is bad. Do the lower port, then go up the back wall if necessary

the plan for the port was 38.5" wide

Edited by Tek
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and the middle sub won't have a loading problem?

In the first drawing you will have differential sub loading. Meaning the one closer to the port will move alot more than the other two. I learned this from experience and it doesn't work. Due to the sloped hatch in the aztac I would do both sub and port's up. Place the port on the drivers side.

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In the first drawing you will have differential sub loading. Meaning the one closer to the port will move alot more than the other two. I learned this from experience and it doesn't work. Due to the sloped hatch in the aztac I would do both sub and port's up. Place the port on the drivers side.

1. I already canceled out the idea of that first design

2. There is 3 subs, not two

3. The design I changed to IS port up subs up

4. Now, the only thing I am concerned with is port noise coming from a 38.5 X 3.5 port if there is any at all

Edited by Tek
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