beandip Posted August 10, 2010 Report Share Posted August 10, 2010 Hey guys i have a question. i searched around (and having fun learning) in the amp section and only found one person having the same issue as me but the problem was not resolved. so i will try to give as much info as i can so there will be no confusion. First off, i am very mechanically/electrically inclined but for some reason this problem has me stumped which usually calls for faulty equipment. second, this thread here is the problem i am having. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/61561-amp-problem/page__hl__m1000%20hot__st__20 so first off, my electrical. Big 3 soldered with 4 gauge Deka intimidator battery 9A78DT under the hood. 4 gauge all the way back to the amp stock 105 amp alternator equipment. Deh-p5900ib HU Alpine MRP-M1000 amp Fi Q dual 1 ohm version wired in series to present a 2 ohm load(got it before all the fancy options...also want to add the DMM reads 1.4 ohms when i connect it to the speaker leads...is this wrong? the RE: specs say .7 ohms per coil but i guess that is the DC resistance correct? if so then the 1.4 is right.) Sub is in a 2.43^ft sealed box, 2.24 after sub displacement. Now what is happening. the voltage at full tilt drops down to 13.3 volts TO the amp. of course listening to a moderate level presents almost no voltage drop. also i tested the ground for resistance and that checked out good. so power and ground is good and my electrical is almost perfect except for the stock alt but since the voltage is not dropping excessively then i rate my electrical as decent but you guys tell me what you think. gains are set correctly though the problem is not gain related. reason i say that is because the amp will get hot at a moderate volume. on a scale of 1-10, 10 being max volume the amp will get hot running at about 3 and in about 30 minutes or so running at 4 or half power, the amp gets hot enough to limit itself. gets about 160ºF when this happens. most of the time it just runs around the 110-120 range. so my question to all you audio gurus is why is my amp getting hot? is it defective? I have read on here that if its not hot enough to cook an egg then its fine. also it has been this way ever since i unboxed it almost 2 years ago and i have no clue why....If the voltage is not dropping then what is causing the amp to get so hot? could it be the sub possibly? also the bass boost is on zero on the amp. only the gain is turned up to .5 volts which is the RCA pre-out voltage. again it doesnt have to be full volume for the amp to get excessively hot which makes me think its more of an amp problem. If that is the case then i will probably get a sundown amp since i have heard nothing but good things from them. Also here is a pic of the setup. super old pic since i have long gotten rid of that crappy fold down console in favor of a full 5 speed s10 blazer console. i might want to add this is in my sonoma. and here is a pic of my truck since i am a bit of a pic whore Thanks for your time reading this and if you have any questions or want to get DMM readings or whatever feel free to ask. -Jonathan -Jonathan 2000 Sonoma Extended cab 2.2L 5 Speed with Hurst short throw shifter, 3/4 Drop with 17s, Flowmaster original 40 series. My Project thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Demo402 Posted August 15, 2010 Report Share Posted August 15, 2010 I got this same amp, and posted this same question in genral audio not to long ago. I was told this amp just doesn't circulate air like it should and so if heats up. Honda Accord 4 Door Current System - (2) 12'' Mtx Thunder 5500's (1) Alpine Mrp-m1000 @4Ω (1) Pioneer Deck Deh-3500 (1) American Legacy 1.0 Farad Capacitor (1) Stinger Voltage Meter (Blue) Big 3 Knu 1/0 Box 3.4^3@37hz Youtube. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
blackrosetiger Posted August 15, 2010 Report Share Posted August 15, 2010 your running it at 1.4ohm of coarse it'll get hot. /thread 1998 Plymouth Voyager (daily) Jensen VM9213 H.U. (I Know but I havent had any problems.... yet) 5.25" Factory -> Sound Stream SST5.2 6x9 Hifonics ZXi 693 -> Sound Stream SST6.9 Amp: Class D: Crescendo 3KWP (x2) Class A/B: Crescendo 1000C4 Sub: Almani S-7 10" (x6) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beandip Posted August 15, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 15, 2010 your running it at 1.4ohm of coarse it'll get hot. /thread That is what i figured. I also heard the nominal impedance will be 1 ohm per coil, but the DC resistance is .7 ohm...i wasnt sure which mattered to the amp. I kinda answered this myself a long time ago but it wouldn't hurt to double check and ask more knowledgeable people. Anyways, i guess its time for a sundown amp! I always had my eye on one of those. unless you guys can recommend something better but sundown should be more than good enough. I got this same amp, and posted this same question in genral audio not to long ago. I was told this amp just doesn't circulate air like it should and so if heats up. Thanks for the input. I have read lots of reviews that said the same thing but i wasnt sure if it was hot on their part (ie, bad install) or just the way the amp is...i know some amps just like to run hot and that is about it. -Jonathan 2000 Sonoma Extended cab 2.2L 5 Speed with Hurst short throw shifter, 3/4 Drop with 17s, Flowmaster original 40 series. My Project thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedball1978 Posted August 15, 2010 Report Share Posted August 15, 2010 isn't that amp rated for a 2 ohm load only??? i read that their amps are 2 ohm stable Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
speedball1978 Posted August 15, 2010 Report Share Posted August 15, 2010 this is why your amp is getting hot, you need to change out the amp for a 1 ohm stable amp... get a rf, or sundown Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Cashdollar2009 Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 isn't that amp rated for a 2 ohm load only??? i read that their amps are 2 ohm stable this is why your amp is getting hot, you need to change out the amp for a 1 ohm stable amp... get a rf, or sundown Lol you need to read before you post brah. And to the OP, I'm glad you finally got a definitive idea as to what your issue was. And Sundown should treat you well! 1997 Chevrolet Cavalier Two 12" DC Audio XL M2'sCrescendo Audio BC5500d Current Scores: 150+ out the Trunk On 6/30/2011 at 1:11 AM, 'Ray' said: Acoustical energy is free. Electrical energy is not. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
beandip Posted August 16, 2010 Author Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 Lol you need to read before you post brah. And to the OP, I'm glad you finally got a definitive idea as to what your issue was. And Sundown should treat you well! I was 98% sure about my sub could cause a problem due to compatibility before i even bought it...i wasnt sure and had my guesses but just until after i installed it i found out the issue and how much of a problem i was. i knew it was bad but didnt have an idea. but, after i installed the system i threw on the big 3, then recently upgraded to a deka intimidator battery which helped my voltage problem immensely. the walmart battery i was running (before i got the system) just couldn't keep up at all and my alt was taking the beating as a result. just now i got my system where it holds its voltage at full tilt (slowly upgrading...) and i wanted to exhaust all my other variables before i look into something as buying an amp when it could have been the simple voltage drop that was causing it to heat up. So i guess i will start looking into their amps and decide which one to go with. i will update whenever buy one but i am not in a rush just yet so it may be a while...i know running this amp at 1.4 ohms isn't exactly a good thing so i guess i should hurry on my decision lol. Anyways, thanks everyone for your input! -Jonathan 2000 Sonoma Extended cab 2.2L 5 Speed with Hurst short throw shifter, 3/4 Drop with 17s, Flowmaster original 40 series. My Project thread Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Socky Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 If you are worried bout it overheating, for temporarely you could use a pc fan mount it on the amp to pull the heat out. Until you get a new amp. Jeep Cherokee 4dr -4.75 in front, new rusty's 4.5 in rear leafs -micky thompson 35x14.50x15 -locker rear -Rusty's offroad Engine/transmission/transfer case/crossmember/gas tank skid plates -Warn front bumper with 8000lb winch -Custom rear bumper -Warrior product tube doors (summertime) -Optima redtop (starter) -26XK miles and still runs like a bat out of hell Kenwood H/U 1/0 wire, 136 amp alt 200 ah batteries 12.7 daily 2 Apsm 1500 @ 2 ohm strapped on zv3 d1 with ns softparts Mb quart 125.4 wired to 4 aura 6's 3.6 cube box tuned to 36 plays down to 23hz Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
onelivinlarge Posted August 16, 2010 Report Share Posted August 16, 2010 umm below steady ohm and re do your big 3 in 0/1 or 0/2 preferably 0/1 and maybe a second bat to keep voltage up im seeing voltage drop now that u have 2 amps in my car. i sadly may have to put my cap back in as a back up to help a little. untill i get a second bat 1) lookj to left 2) NOTICE BLKUE 3) ME > Y9OU 4) that is all Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Recommended Posts
Archived
This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.