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modded amp?


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How long is a piece of string? Depends what you want to achieve.

Usual stuff:

Protection mods - disable the protection circuitry or change when it kicks in. e.g. allow the amp to run at 16v, or at lower than normal ohm loads. Only really useful with supporting mods, or for burps, or with a few select amps that are sufficiently over-engineered to handle stuff they weren't originally designed to.

Capacitor mods - adding caps on the high-voltage rails. Expensive, doesn't gain you too much unless you use a TON of caps, although you can use higher voltage ones as a supporting mod.

Toroid Re-wind - change the windings of the power supply toroids to get higher rail voltage. This gives you more power but reduces current handling. Usually requires pretty significant supporting mods such as output MOSFETs and rail caps, occasionally the rectifiers too, but is about the only true way to make an amp more powerful

MOSFET/Transistor swap - Swapping the semiconductors for higher performance parts, either with higher voltage/current handling or lower Rds(on) or similar in order to either increase the efficiency of the amp, allow it to handle lower ohm loads or allow higher working voltage.

Op-Amp swap - For the SQ buffs, you can swap out the op-amps used in the pre-amp section (most amps use very, very cheap ones since they're enough for most purposes) for better sounding ones. If you wanna get really picky you can start at the RCAs and replace everything in the signal path with higher-end bits but it's expensive for not a lot of gain.

Pretty much everything here except for the protection mods requires that you know your way around amplifiers, I wouldn't even start without a scope and a fair bit of experience working on amps.

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10.x volts fo' life!

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you forgot mosfet strapping. Easy to do but dont bother doing it on an amp you love lol :)

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

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basically no.

technically yes.

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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ive heard of this stuff too and am actually pretty interested

starting up for an electrical engineering major and will most definitely be looking for this kinda stuff in theory.

messin with this stuff as basics is fun in general but throwing it into an auido set up would be bad ass

ty

TY

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you forgot mosfet strapping. Easy to do but dont bother doing it on an amp you love lol :)

Gotta allow for increased drive current... so go through and replace all your pissy little A1023's and C1027's with something bigger, probably a larger case part. Or cut the drive tracks and use the drive transistor to drive something bigger which in turn drives the FETs.

And don't forget to throw in a pile of Zeners G-S to prevent the amp going into oscillation and going KABOOOOM

goodgrammarbc7.gif

10.x volts fo' life!

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like I said, dont bother doing it on an amp you love lol ;)

MickyMcD - "Capable of making some serious trouser flapping volumes at where's-my-testicles frequencies, the Servo-Drives used to be fairly jaw dropping..."

Any time you have have a power wire next to your frame put some rubber hosing (or cut up an innertube) around it. The wire is bound to wiggle (due to driving or flex) and the casing will eventually wear through.

Hammerdown... 1%

no links to outside websites, business related FB/YT pages allowed.

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