lowsound10 Posted November 28, 2010 Report Posted November 28, 2010 These are my setttings everything is stock except the sub in the trunk. I was just wondering if everything is ok or if theres any tips anyone could give me? I have the sub level all the way up and the frequency at 80hz. May seem like a stupid question but i just dont want to be clipping or anything or maybe i could get more out of something hidden. Then also rear deck speakers, what if i get rid of them and say put more tweeters or midbass up front would i notice a difference? car is a 2008 mustang v6 headunit is pioneer avh-p4000dvd...anything else needed just ask appreciate the help Vehicle: 2008 Mustang V6 Exterior: Blacked Out Taillights, Turn Signals, Side Markers-Black 18x8 Enkei ls5-6000k HID's Interior: Blue LED Strips with Module for Music-Hardwired Beltronics RX65 with Blue LED and remote button Sub: 2 10 inch custom subs Amp: Hifonics BRz 2600 Wire: Knu 0 gauge Headunit: Kenwood kiv-bt901 Damplifier: Fatmat Rattletrap Electrical: Stock Alt/Stock Battery/Big 3
bassl0va Posted November 28, 2010 Report Posted November 28, 2010 You are probably clipping with the sub level at max there, you might want to put that back to neutral and o-scope the gains on the amp. It's up to you if you would rather have more speakers up the front, of have rear fill, try both and see which you like better. My RE MT 18" wall build Former build, farewell beloved wall.In progress, Toyota Starlet build This forum has a massive boner for ridiculous electrical upgrades.
lowsound10 Posted November 28, 2010 Author Report Posted November 28, 2010 alright thanks ill change that back not to mess anything up...ok yeah i was thinkin that but i didnt know if it would sound weird or differnt but i guess your right ill have to see. just searching for opinions. Vehicle: 2008 Mustang V6 Exterior: Blacked Out Taillights, Turn Signals, Side Markers-Black 18x8 Enkei ls5-6000k HID's Interior: Blue LED Strips with Module for Music-Hardwired Beltronics RX65 with Blue LED and remote button Sub: 2 10 inch custom subs Amp: Hifonics BRz 2600 Wire: Knu 0 gauge Headunit: Kenwood kiv-bt901 Damplifier: Fatmat Rattletrap Electrical: Stock Alt/Stock Battery/Big 3
skittlesRgood Posted November 28, 2010 Report Posted November 28, 2010 put the sub back to 0 and tune your gains with a DMM, you dont need an oscope and im sure you dont already have one. there are instructions on here for tuning with a DMM, just learn how to do that. you should have it on regular and not reverse. although that isnt a huge deal. good job putting all the info we would need and making it easy to help you. it was a very nice change of pace. If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.
lowsound10 Posted November 28, 2010 Author Report Posted November 28, 2010 im kinda waiting to get some extra money to spend for the dmm...and also it seemed louder when i put them on reverse but everything is hooked up right? so i just kept it like that. haha no problem i usually see that when people read so i figured id post everything i could posibly Vehicle: 2008 Mustang V6 Exterior: Blacked Out Taillights, Turn Signals, Side Markers-Black 18x8 Enkei ls5-6000k HID's Interior: Blue LED Strips with Module for Music-Hardwired Beltronics RX65 with Blue LED and remote button Sub: 2 10 inch custom subs Amp: Hifonics BRz 2600 Wire: Knu 0 gauge Headunit: Kenwood kiv-bt901 Damplifier: Fatmat Rattletrap Electrical: Stock Alt/Stock Battery/Big 3
skittlesRgood Posted November 28, 2010 Report Posted November 28, 2010 im kinda waiting to get some extra money to spend for the dmm...and also it seemed louder when i put them on reverse but everything is hooked up right? so i just kept it like that. haha no problem i usually see that when people read so i figured id post everything i could posibly well if you are familiar with "phase" the reverse setting is like a 180* phase shift. same as switching the polarity on the speaker. you are delaying the sound wave and doing so could help match it to your front speakers or make it sound funny. if it helped, thats good, dont worry about it. If I answered you in a well mannered, informative way, you asked a good question or had a good attitude. If I was an asshole, you asked a stupid question or you had a fucktard attitude... or I was in a bad mood. Team BassickHU: Pioneer AVIC Z110Front: Peerless SLS 6.5", Peerless HDS 4", Rainbow tweeter - running activeAmp: JL HD600/4 and DC 4 channel (bridged to midbass)Processor: JBL MS-8Subs: 2x 12" AA MayhemsAmp: DC 3kElectrical: DC power 270xp alt. 1/0 big 4. XSpower D3400 and six D680s. http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/topic/121795-29-update-the-buick-is-getting-a-rebuild/ Top career scores: DBdrag 151.7 MECA SQ 82.25My SOTM build Yeah. im pretty sure they dont warranty retarded people.
lowsound10 Posted November 28, 2010 Author Report Posted November 28, 2010 yeah i had somewhat of an idea but everything seemed to match up soo i left it like that. Vehicle: 2008 Mustang V6 Exterior: Blacked Out Taillights, Turn Signals, Side Markers-Black 18x8 Enkei ls5-6000k HID's Interior: Blue LED Strips with Module for Music-Hardwired Beltronics RX65 with Blue LED and remote button Sub: 2 10 inch custom subs Amp: Hifonics BRz 2600 Wire: Knu 0 gauge Headunit: Kenwood kiv-bt901 Damplifier: Fatmat Rattletrap Electrical: Stock Alt/Stock Battery/Big 3
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