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[quote name=dwright27' date='15 December 2010 - 12:37 PM' timestamp='1292441831'

post='1313317]

If I have about 3cuft per sub and 33" of port..wouldn't I be just shy of having enough following the 12-16" "rule of thumb". 12"minimum of port per 1cube volume. 12x3=36 and I

have 33. Maybe I'm wrong again but seems close to me.

12 - 16 square is just a rule

Of thumb and is an excellent starting point.

Port area is determined by the width and height of your port. Therefore

your current port setup "1.5x22.x" would equal 33 square inches of port.

33/4 = ( assuming thats what your box is now ) 8.25 square inches of

port per cubic foot.

So you have about half the port area needed. I personally like to start at a 20 square inch per cube ratio, and then shrink the port down.

Don't take this wrong because I know they are "the same" but do you prefer round or square ports? I was told square are easier to tune and If I

started big I'd just have to make blocks to reduce the area unlike a round port.

I prefer slot ports. Round ( aero ) ports are more efficient, but easier to tune IMO.

Yes all you would have to do in most cases is just make blocks. And that's why I like to start on the big side.

Alright cool. Also, the same dude who built the box told me that dual chambered is better than shared. My audio shop told me it doesn't matter at all. Obviously one chamber would be cheaper and easier to build and faster to block it for port area if need be. If you scroll up you can see my dimensions on the box. I'd like to keep those same measurements if I can so where would I put the ports? They are as big as they can be in the middle right now so they'd have to go on top or bottom..thanks for your help though. I was just misinformed on this. :peepwall:

Last question on saving my box..

-I've seen boxes with multiple ports so what if I put round port inserts through each side to give myself optimum port area..would that work for a temp fix and so I could hear the difference? It could always be sealed back over but I want to take my backrest out and modify the seats a lil before I re-build a box. This is gunna change the diminsions I can work with so maybe I could build a better looking box. I'm prolly not going to have these subs forever and when I do change them out it will be an upgrade..not a downgrade so leaving room to adjust is great because I can make it work on multiple subs. When I do this box I'd like to decrease the volume a little maybe so it can work well with other subs. Old school W3s call for more airspace than a new W7. I want to be able to put other subs in it if I want to. Input on that would help me decide.

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tis me again. yeah man you wont regret ripping that backseat out. makes a huge difference in the dimensions. i never measured mine when the seat was in like yours. but from were i have my front seat placed. 20 inches wide sets about 2 inches from the back of my seat. so you can get a huge jump in space. and the height is however high you want see lol. long ways is 55 exact for a perfect fit.

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tis me again. yeah man you wont regret ripping that backseat out. makes a huge difference in the dimensions. i never measured mine when the seat was in like yours. but from were i have my front seat placed. 20 inches wide sets about 2 inches from the back of my seat. so you can get a huge jump in space. and the height is however high you want see lol. long ways is 55 exact for a perfect fit.

I wanna get the back rest out so I can scoot the seats back more and eventually get the frame cut in half so I can build a box/rack underneath for my amps and possibly more speakers/subs..

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Don't get upset that people are trying to help you. The fact is that your box is bad, and you could have a much better designed box.

You can only do so much with less than 500w clamped power, but a good box can help a lot.

Edit: For someone to have 20 years experience, they sure don't know what they're doing. I feel bad for people who have had to deal with him for 20 years.

Alright. I'll take one of my subs out so it can act as a port.lol That should help.

Just thought I would note: If your box is like mine, with two separate chambers, then taking one sub out wouldn't effect the other sub's performance because they're not sharing airspace. I know you were being sarcastic and this is pretty irrelevant to the thread, but I feel smart now.

2004 Ford Mustang GTPioneer DEH-P7200HD head unitMach 460 Factory System

Cadence FXA1600.2

Cadence S2W10

Cadence 4 AWG wiring

Ported box, 2 cubes, 32 hertz

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Also wanted to say good work so far.

Thanks man. I started my amp install today..finishing it tomorrow. I'll post a few pics on the install and make a little video of my setup so far. My amp display is pretty cool. Anyways, glad to hear some positive feed-back! :drinks:

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