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Posted

I think this would be the right spot but idk.

guess i will tell you what i have 2008 mustang v6. re audio rex 12 off a shitty amp umm it says XXX 1000 watt real shitty. i have another amp thats spx audio again shitty umm i htink its 600. i know the 1000 prolly only puts out maybe 300 and the spx proly 150 but they run what i have good so until i get money ill get a new one. i was doing the big three around christmas but i only did 2 negative to ground and pos alt to positive on battery. at first i only did the ground everything was great working perfect. bout a week later did positive and i redid my amp wires make them shorter. tried to turn the car on battery died i was pissed soo went to get a new one put it in. next it was workin for about 3 days. then just now it fucker goes out again!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! ugh. all my lights turn on my HIDs dome lights locks and unlocks from remote it just wont start. theres only 35k miles on it. im gettin pissed anybody have any ideas what it could be? would anyone think my alts gone? i think its a 120 amp stock. idk i guess im venting just if anyone knows anything itd help alot because i have to leave for school tuesday thanks if anyone can help

Vehicle: 2008 Mustang V6

Exterior: Blacked Out Taillights, Turn Signals, Side Markers-Black 18x8 Enkei ls5-6000k HID's

Interior: Blue LED Strips with Module for Music-Hardwired Beltronics RX65 with Blue LED and remote button

Sub: 2 10 inch custom subs

Amp: Hifonics BRz 2600

Wire: Knu 0 gauge

Headunit: Kenwood kiv-bt901

Damplifier: Fatmat Rattletrap

Electrical: Stock Alt/Stock Battery/Big 3

Posted

get a dmm with the ability to read amps. you need to have 2 people for this, first thing to do is to unhook one side of the battery from the car (preferably ground) take your meter set on amps and put it in-line between your battery and the cable commecting it to the car. what you are performing is a paracidic draw test. when you put your meter inline make sure all the doors are closed, and the light under the hood is unplugged. when you connect the meter you shouldnt see a steady reading of over 0.06 of an amp. if there is a higher reading, have your other person start pulling and replacing fuses 1 by one. if your other person pulls a fuse and the reading drops there is a problem in that electrical circut. if and when you find the trouble circut take time to go through and clean all the connections throughout that circut. after that put the fuse back in and check the reading again, repeat through all the fuses. now if you get an initial reading of less that 0.06 of an amp i would putt your alt and take it up to advance or oriley and have them test it. i highly doubt that your alt is the problem, because you had a couple of days between battery swaps. if your alt was bad you wouldnt have made it 5 minutes down the road before your car would have died. hope i have helped in some way, and sorry about such a long post. B)

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Posted

get a dmm with the ability to read amps. you need to have 2 people for this, first thing to do is to unhook one side of the battery from the car (preferably ground) take your meter set on amps and put it in-line between your battery and the cable commecting it to the car. what you are performing is a paracidic draw test. when you put your meter inline make sure all the doors are closed, and the light under the hood is unplugged. when you connect the meter you shouldnt see a steady reading of over 0.06 of an amp. if there is a higher reading, have your other person start pulling and replacing fuses 1 by one. if your other person pulls a fuse and the reading drops there is a problem in that electrical circut. if and when you find the trouble circut take time to go through and clean all the connections throughout that circut. after that put the fuse back in and check the reading again, repeat through all the fuses. now if you get an initial reading of less that 0.06 of an amp i would putt your alt and take it up to advance or oriley and have them test it. i highly doubt that your alt is the problem, because you had a couple of days between battery swaps. if your alt was bad you wouldnt have made it 5 minutes down the road before your car would have died. hope i have helped in some way, and sorry about such a long post. B)

ok thanks man ima have to try that durring the day. i was thinking somthing has to be running the whole time to drain it. my amps arent on i have like 3 things rnning off my remote which i know isnt very good but for now everything holds up. its 2 amps and a radar. soo idk! but i guess ill try that thanks again gotta go get a dmm to :( damn money welli was plannin on buying one just not now.

Vehicle: 2008 Mustang V6

Exterior: Blacked Out Taillights, Turn Signals, Side Markers-Black 18x8 Enkei ls5-6000k HID's

Interior: Blue LED Strips with Module for Music-Hardwired Beltronics RX65 with Blue LED and remote button

Sub: 2 10 inch custom subs

Amp: Hifonics BRz 2600

Wire: Knu 0 gauge

Headunit: Kenwood kiv-bt901

Damplifier: Fatmat Rattletrap

Electrical: Stock Alt/Stock Battery/Big 3

Posted

yeah none of my buddies are real into it and actually know how to do it. not saying i know everything just mmore then them. im on here everyday looking and trying to learn. and now i ran into these complications and im so angry! because i have to go back to school tuesday and i cant do anything working on it because i play baseball

Vehicle: 2008 Mustang V6

Exterior: Blacked Out Taillights, Turn Signals, Side Markers-Black 18x8 Enkei ls5-6000k HID's

Interior: Blue LED Strips with Module for Music-Hardwired Beltronics RX65 with Blue LED and remote button

Sub: 2 10 inch custom subs

Amp: Hifonics BRz 2600

Wire: Knu 0 gauge

Headunit: Kenwood kiv-bt901

Damplifier: Fatmat Rattletrap

Electrical: Stock Alt/Stock Battery/Big 3

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