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Fi BTL ohm load (possible amp to buy)


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What's happening everyone. I recieved pretty good advice from this site before so I though I'd post my new dilema :)

SYSTEM BACKGROUND:

OK, its been a little while and a lot of changes since my last post. I bought a recommended Powerbass XA4000d to run my loaded BTL 18 and have been pleased. Enclosure is 7.4 cubes tuned at 33Hz. Running @ 1 ohm. Also added a Kenwood DNX6140 head with great sub and EQ control. 0 awg throughout with 300a inlines. All grounds are on chasis and less than 3 ft. Big 3 with 0 awg plus original elec. lines. All brass terminals and wire connections.

INQUARIES:

1. I have since removed it to finish my enclosure (sucks but it had to be done). I glassed the inside, sand-bondo-sand-bondo....about 6 times, flared slot port, 45ed corners, and ready to be lined. Going to truck bed line it - thinking line-x because they have a super high ASTM accoustical value on their "150-250" series product line. Has anyone sprayed a box themselves with the can spray or roll on? Results? I can do it myself for about 1/8 of the price and have done all the necessary prep, I simply don't want to throw that all away in the finished product. Suggestions? Line-x charging $160-$180.

2. I have been pleasantly surprised by the PB 4000! Probably not the best quality sound but its loud as hell! First PB product I've owned. I bought but have not installed yet 2 Sprinter S12V370F AGM batts to replace my Stinger SPV44's. I have a stock 140a alternator (I know I need a H.O.) and have been noticing some serious voltage drop which was expected but not to this extent. I am hoping the Sprinters will help A LOT! I believe they are 125ah (per the guy I purchased from, they're monsters!). My dilema is this: for the price of a new HO alt. and for the price of what I could sell my amp to a buddy for I could purchase a new Kicker Warhorse from a buddy that closed his shop. I would run the Warhorse at 4 ohm (5000rms) VS. running the PB at 1 ohm (4000rms). I would love to own a warhorse but forsee some serious costs to get it up and running properly. Would the reduction in ohm load be less of a load on my electrical system vs. the powerbass currently? I am sure there is a basic formula for calculating this but I am unable to locate online. Basically, is the PB @ 1 ohm putting more stress on my electrical than a warhorse would @ 4 ohm? Would I need to purchase a HO alternator anyways just to even get the warhorse up and running?

Appreciate any insight on these issues.

Also I would post a build log but can't figure out where or how to post pics on here. Anyone know how/where?

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First of all, do you know how the warhorse works?

It's way different than any other amp. You can't look at your subs as being DVC you need to look at it as a SVC. If you have a D2 coil, when you think of the warhorse, you look at the sub as a S2 coil. The warhorse is in a way a 2 channel amp. I can explain farther if you don't know how it works.

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Yeah, I think I am going to keep the PB set up but I may try and buy the Warhorse simply for resale. $900 brand new is tough to turn down!

I didn't know much about the warhorse, no. I probably got a little ahead of myself when he gave me the price :) After researching it a little more it probably just isn't what I need for my application at this point. I can already see that the cost for "accessories" is going to be substantial also! I probably should stick with the PB and possibly buy the warhorse for resale on ebay or something, thats the cheapest I've ever seen one for, even Ebay is ~$1500-1600. No telling what he paid.

Any suggestions on a good, cheap HO alt for a 03 blazer?

Also anyone with experience in dealing with the spray/roll on bed liner I would appreciate it. I bought a can and did a test area on a 1 ft2 board......not really sure how I feel about applying to a large area???

Thanks again guys!!!

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Wow those are nice (great heat disipation for such a tight wind) but COSTLY too. I know you have to pay to play. I appreciate the suggestion man, I will keep them in mind.

A guy at my local stereo shop, pretty big outfit and seem knowledgeable, told me that a cheaper option is to run a larger reserve bank basically by adding more extra batteries. It doesn't make a lot of sense to me from a theoretical standpoint that just adding a crap load of batteries will help. His explination is that if your reserve is large enough your alt. will charge the depleted while your amp is pulling power from another bank.?.?. Doesn't sound right but he had 2 18's on a stock alt with 4 Kinetik 3800's and he said he never had any problems (of course this was heresay as I never actually witnessed it). Definately a cheaper option if I can use the SPV44's I was going to remove since I already have them. Sounds questionable though, drawing more power than I am replenishing but it does have some validity if your reserve bank is big enough, though it seems it woulddamage batts fast. Anyone ran that much power on a stock alt? Results?

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If you want a H/O alternator, but are strapped for cash, why not check out the for sale section? Look on here and on http://www.caraudioclassifieds.org/forum/forumdisplay.php?f=10 for a good used one.

Need Test Tones/Sine Waves? Click Here!

My Saab 9000 build
1993 Saab 9000 Aero 5spd
Pioneer - Zapco - Hifonics - Sundown Audio - O2 Audio - RE Audio

Just Say No To Rear Speakers
Just Say No To CCA Wire
Real Men Drive Stick

Hit me up on Facebook, if you want

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Thanks man. I'll do some browsing and see if I can't find something. I am just having trouble allocating funds....have so much I want to do but my wife would probably leave me if she found out I spent another dime on this system, HA! :) Nice build on the DC! Mine is surprisingly similar. How'd you post that build log? Have you finished the exterior yet?

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