lowsound10 Posted January 13, 2011 Report Posted January 13, 2011 i was reading something about the big 3 because i did teh big 2 ground to neg pos to alt pos and i was looking for how to do chassis to ground on a 2008 mustang. idk why im just confused on where to bolt it on the engine. i saw a guy say just go from an alt bracket bolt to negative on battery? and i was curious if this would work or if that guy is completely out of his mind. this is the link if it helps any. My link thanks Vehicle: 2008 Mustang V6 Exterior: Blacked Out Taillights, Turn Signals, Side Markers-Black 18x8 Enkei ls5-6000k HID's Interior: Blue LED Strips with Module for Music-Hardwired Beltronics RX65 with Blue LED and remote button Sub: 2 10 inch custom subs Amp: Hifonics BRz 2600 Wire: Knu 0 gauge Headunit: Kenwood kiv-bt901 Damplifier: Fatmat Rattletrap Electrical: Stock Alt/Stock Battery/Big 3
Rebel4055 Posted January 13, 2011 Report Posted January 13, 2011 Pretty sure you can do it like that. Rest In Peace mother. January 22, 1955 - February 14, 2013 http://www.stevemeadedesigns.com/board/user/35351-megrch/
lowsound10 Posted January 13, 2011 Author Report Posted January 13, 2011 alright cause thatd be easy since my alt is like 3 feet away from my battery anymore opinions? Vehicle: 2008 Mustang V6 Exterior: Blacked Out Taillights, Turn Signals, Side Markers-Black 18x8 Enkei ls5-6000k HID's Interior: Blue LED Strips with Module for Music-Hardwired Beltronics RX65 with Blue LED and remote button Sub: 2 10 inch custom subs Amp: Hifonics BRz 2600 Wire: Knu 0 gauge Headunit: Kenwood kiv-bt901 Damplifier: Fatmat Rattletrap Electrical: Stock Alt/Stock Battery/Big 3
corteznewbie Posted January 13, 2011 Report Posted January 13, 2011 as long as the bolt goes into the block it will work Team DBs (Driven By sound)
lowsound10 Posted January 13, 2011 Author Report Posted January 13, 2011 as long as the bolt goes into the block it will work well from what i understand ffrom reading that if its correct is that the casing of the alt is the ground. soo its connected to the engine there fore all the engine to chassis is really for the alt ground? idk if that makes sense or if its correct at all Vehicle: 2008 Mustang V6 Exterior: Blacked Out Taillights, Turn Signals, Side Markers-Black 18x8 Enkei ls5-6000k HID's Interior: Blue LED Strips with Module for Music-Hardwired Beltronics RX65 with Blue LED and remote button Sub: 2 10 inch custom subs Amp: Hifonics BRz 2600 Wire: Knu 0 gauge Headunit: Kenwood kiv-bt901 Damplifier: Fatmat Rattletrap Electrical: Stock Alt/Stock Battery/Big 3
dereileak Posted January 13, 2011 Report Posted January 13, 2011 Big 3 is 1. Alternator + to batter + 2. Alternator casing or engine block to battery ground - the closer to the alternator the better, if you can do it right to the alternator casing then do it, less resistance then going through the engine. but may only be by a little bit 3. Battery Neg to chassis, go to a main part of the car, like a strut tower, or a frame rail, do not go to some crappy piece of welded metal Some people will do alternator casing to chassis, but isn't necessary as the wire runs from the alternator casing to battery neg to chassis Tip: keep wires away from extreme heat, also some people fuse the alternator to battery, but you have to be careful, if anything use a circuit breaker that is designed for the wiring or slightly above what the alternator peaks at. The main issue is if fuse blows or the circuit breaks then you loose all main power, and you will destroy your battery running it into such a low charge if its not fixed right away, that's why a voltage meter that's on all the time is helpful. Another reason for fusing is so you don't burn out the diodes in the alt, as stock ones can burn out if you over draw them, aftermarket alts usually have excessive diodes, like 12 50 amp, even its its a 250 amp alt. If this wire shorts, you will not only short the alternator but the battery, thats why its good to have a fuse for the wiring limits near the battery, you better at damaging your battery by running it empty, then to have it explode, thats how I see it at least 2006 Mazda3 Hatchback Black 5 Spd ManualPioneer 4300DVD2 Sundown SA-12 (34hz Tune, 3.22 cubes, 14.5 inches per cube, Triple Baffle)Kicker 10ZX2500.1 (2845 RMS) Sub AmpKicker 11ZX650.4 (705 RMS) Mid Amp -- (3 Amps)Kicker KQ3 Active CrossoverKicker KQ30 EqualizerKicker 09QS60.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones)Kicker 09QS65.2 Components (Woven Carbon Cones) - (3 Sets)2/0 Gauge Electron Beam Technologies (3 Runs, 2 +, 1 -) 1/0 Gauge KNU Kollasal Flex (1 Run for -) 300 Ft Kicker X-Series 16 Gauge Speaker WireXS Power D3400 (Rear)XS Power D3100 (Front)Singer Externally Regulated Alternator (Being Built)+ The Love for Car Audio and BASS <3UBL Build Log <------- Click Here-------> Normal Build Log (For Comments)
lowsound10 Posted January 13, 2011 Author Report Posted January 13, 2011 Big 3 is 1. Alternator + to batter + 2. Alternator casing or engine block to battery ground - the closer to the alternator the better, if you can do it right to the alternator casing then do it, less resistance then going through the engine. but may only be by a little bit 3. Battery Neg to chassis, go to a main part of the car, like a strut tower, or a frame rail, do not go to some crappy piece of welded metal Some people will do alternator casing to chassis, but isn't necessary as the wire runs from the alternator casing to battery neg to chassis Tip: keep wires away from extreme heat, also some people fuse the alternator to battery, but you have to be careful, if anything use a circuit breaker that is designed for the wiring or slightly above what the alternator peaks at. The main issue is if fuse blows or the circuit breaks then you loose all main power, and you will destroy your battery running it into such a low charge if its not fixed right away, that's why a voltage meter that's on all the time is helpful. Another reason for fusing is so you don't burn out the diodes in the alt, as stock ones can burn out if you over draw them, aftermarket alts usually have excessive diodes, like 12 50 amp, even its its a 250 amp alt. If this wire shorts, you will not only short the alternator but the battery, thats why its good to have a fuse for the wiring limits near the battery, you better at damaging your battery by running it empty, then to have it explode, thats how I see it at least Thanks man but yeah i already did alt pos to bat pos with a fuse and neg to ground i was just having some trouble finding a good spot for engine to ground im going to try and bolt it to the casing of the alt and go straight to the battery Vehicle: 2008 Mustang V6 Exterior: Blacked Out Taillights, Turn Signals, Side Markers-Black 18x8 Enkei ls5-6000k HID's Interior: Blue LED Strips with Module for Music-Hardwired Beltronics RX65 with Blue LED and remote button Sub: 2 10 inch custom subs Amp: Hifonics BRz 2600 Wire: Knu 0 gauge Headunit: Kenwood kiv-bt901 Damplifier: Fatmat Rattletrap Electrical: Stock Alt/Stock Battery/Big 3
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